HOW TO: Change Your Oil

ENGINE OIL CHANGE
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals described in Maintenance Schedules. Run engine until achieving normal operating temperature.

(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn engine off.
(2) Remove oil fill cap.
(3) Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
(4) Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase drain.
(5) Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug if damaged.
(6) Install drain plug in crankcase.

(7) Remove oil filter - All engines are equipped with a high quality fullflow, disposable type oil filter. DaimlerChrysler Corporation recommends a Mopart or equivalent oil filter be used.

(7.1) Position a drain pan under the oil filter.
(7.2) Using a suitable oil filter wrench loosen filter.
(7.3) Rotate the oil filter counterclockwise (Fig. 73)to remove it from the cylinder block oil filter boss.
(7.4) When filter separates from cylinder block oil filter boss, tip gasket end upward to minimize oil spill. Remove filter from vehicle. NOTE: Make sure filter gasket was removed with filter.
(7.5) With a wiping cloth, clean the gasket sealing surface of oil and grime.
(8) Install a new oil filter.
(8.1) Lightly lubricate oil filter gasket with engine oil.
(8.2) Thread filter onto adapter nipple. When gasket makes contact with sealing surface, (Fig. 74)hand tighten filter one full turn, do not over tighten.
(9) Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with 5 quarts of the specified type of engine oil described in this section.
(10) Install oil fill cap.
(11) Start engine and inspect for leaks.
(12) Stop engine and inspect oil level.

As a side note, if you have a skid plate installed, ensure that no oil has spilled onto the top of it. Cleaning with a utility towel should do the trick.

First Oil Change on a New Vehicle? The filter is really tightened from the factory. Like REALLY tightened. You might consider having your first oil change done @ your friendly Jeep dealer.

quick explanation

sorry to be such a newby but how do I find the drain plug to the crank case? what does the crank case look like? Is it a bolt or a pin? I'm very new to cars and I just want to be able to put in good oil with out paying $60.

Re: quick explanation

Liber said:

sorry to be such a newby but how do I find the drain plug to the crank case? what does the crank case look like? Is it a bolt or a pin? I'm very new to cars and I just want to be able to put in good oil with out paying $60.

Click to expand...

u see in figure 73...the lowest part behind the oil filter ....well behind that is where the drain plug is. it's like the only bold you'll see in the middle of the oil pan cover



<--------------front of engine

thanks

Thanks for that.

oil filter removale tools

any thoughts on what I need to take off the oil filter housing?

Re: oil filter removale tools

Liber said:

any thoughts on what I need to take off the oil filter housing?

Click to expand...

u mean the filter itself? a compact filter wrench would help
if this is ur first oil change, have like a shop or the dealer do it first..it's been reported by a lot, that the factory filter is tight, and it's a bitch to get out

Re: oil filter removale tools

Liber said:

any thoughts on what I need to take off the oil filter housing?

Click to expand...

Dynamite!

The factory installed filter is ****** to remove. I mangled mine that very first oil change. Looked like I used it for target practice. I think a band type filter wrench that use with a socket wrench works best. It grips over a wide area of the filter body and gets plenty of grip and torque as you turn it.

This isn't the cars first oil change it is mine. So basicly you're telling me I have to run down to Auto zone and get one of these wrenches, or can I find them at home depot?

ok....even the filters installed by the dealers when they do a change are on insanely tight. I just did MY first change on my KJ a couple of weeks ago...but the dealer has done it since I bought it (free coupons)....it was a BITCH to get off. I went to wally world and picked up one of those plastic wrenches that kinda fits on to the bottom of the filter like a cup. You just attach your basic socket wrench into the center top part, and attach it to the filter...but make sure it goes back ALL the way...you'll probably have to give it a good whack with your hand a couple of times. This makes it much easier to get off, but it's still gonna be on there pretty darn tight. You'll probably run into the same problem with the drain plug. Took me a solid 45 minutes just to get the plug off alone it was on so damn tight. I had both hands on my socket wrench and actually hoisted myself up off the ground and it still wouldn't budge....one of those days a hammer came in handy :-$

When you go to install the new one, don't forget to dip your finger in the pan with the old oil in it and smear some oil on the seal of the new filter. This helps it adhere better and makes it much easier to get off ont he next change. Also don't go crazy putting the drain plug back on or the filter back on. For the filter, hand tight will be sufficient.....this makes it much easier to get off next time.

Also beware when taking the filter off, the little bit of oil that comes out is not going to come out right underneath the filter. On my KJ, theres a little shute that you can't see untill you take the filter off, and it takes the majority of that oil that is going to fall, and drains it towards the passenger side and back some.....so make sure you have plenty of newspapers down.

Heres what the wrench I use looks like. In order to figure out which size i needed I pulled one of the fram filters from the shelf at wally world out of the box, and matched it up to the proper wrench. I would also recomend the use of Napa Gold oil filters. I've heard of several people having problems with crappy oil flow in the Fram's....poor design. Napa Gold only costs $6 and some change in my area.

Yeah I've been meaning to ask if there was an oil filter out there that was a real good one... I've been using a fram on my TJ but wondered if there was one that performed really well or was more suited for synthetic oil? Or you could say, "Jonah, it's just an oil filter nothing really much to it being any better so calm down... ya freak."

jonah, it's just an oil filter..calm down u freak....
LOL

i use Purolator Pure One oil filter...one of the highest rated filters in SAE tests..(i have to look for that site where they did a comparo..)
mobil1 filters are good too...

-=JoN=- said:

... mobil1 filters are good too...

Click to expand...

My friend at Exxon would be happy to hear that.

What about K&N filters?

GoldBug said:

-=JoN=- said:

... mobil1 filters are good too...

Click to expand...

My friend at Exxon would be happy to hear that.

What about K&N filters?

Click to expand...

been meaning to try those..but the pure one filters are always on sale, so i end up just getting them.....
one of these day's i'll give them ago..they are as good as the mobil 1's

I read an online study awhile back on build and filtering quality of oil filters. I've always used Fram or Purolator and was shocked to find Fram at the bottom of the list! Wix brand was at the top but I've never seen them in my area. I found them online at Rockauto.com. BTW...good call on the procedure 2003KJ and I also would add that a person might want to wipe the filter mounting surface on the motor before installing just to make sure its clean AND the old gasket isn't still there. I changed oil on an old '87 Plymouth Horizon, took it for a test drive and was maybe a block away from home when the idiot light came on. Popped the hood...oil spewing everywhere. Shut 'er down and removed the filter...yep...old gasket still on there! D'oh! I always check now and spin the new filter on hand-tight one complete revolution if possible. #-o

thx1138 said:

I read an online study awhile back on build and filtering quality of oil filters. I've always used Fram or Purolator and was shocked to find Fram at the bottom of the list! Wix brand was at the top but I've never seen them in my area. I found them online at Rockauto.com. BTW...good call on the procedure 2003KJ and I also would add that a person might want to wipe the filter mounting surface on the motor before installing just to make sure its clean AND the old gasket isn't still there. I changed oil on an old '87 Plymouth Horizon, took it for a test drive and was maybe a block away from home when the idiot light came on. Popped the hood...oil spewing everywhere. Shut 'er down and removed the filter...yep...old gasket still on there! D'oh! I always check now and spin the new filter on hand-tight one complete revolution if possible. #-o

Click to expand...

Probably the same article i've read. Actually, the Napa Gold is a wix brand, with the Napa name on it....one of the reasons why I like it so much.

GoldBug said:

I've been using a fram on my TJ but wondered if there was one that performed really well or was more suited for synthetic oil?

Click to expand...

Actually, in my readings, I've found that the Fram ones were especially bad in the 4.0...atleast on the XJ's.....not sure if you've got the 4.0 in your TJ, but its the same engine. Lots of reports of people getting crap for oil pressure (since theres actually an oil pressure guage on the XJ/TJ), and when they switch to a K&N or a Napa Gold or another better brand its like majic, their oil pressure is back to normal again.

anyone seen/used one of those clamp on filter magnets that's supposed to trap any kind of metal shavings inside the filter? Seems to make sense, and for $20, what's to loose...any thoughts???

2003KJ said:

Actually, in my readings, I've found that the Fram ones were especially bad in the 4.0...atleast on the XJ's.....not sure if you've got the 4.0 in your TJ, but its the same engine. Lots of reports of people getting crap for oil pressure...

Click to expand...

Yeah it's a 4.0L.

And I've used the Fram TG for about the last yearish and didn't notice any change w/ the oil pressure gauge until just after the local dealer had it in to replace the transmission throw out bearing. When stopped it'll drop to 40 and while driving it'll go to the 65-80 range, I’m not sure the actual number cause the needle is about the size of pencil and the face is about the size of a silver dollar. Actually it was right after I got it back from the shop I stopped at the first light off my highway commute and felt the engine knock a lil. Hasn't knocked since and have been meaning to check the oil. #-o

I’ll shut up before it takes this how to too far off topic... but I thought the oil filter review was pertinent.

thx1138 said:

I read an online study awhile back on build and filtering quality of oil filters. I've always used Fram or Purolator and was shocked to find Fram at the bottom of the list! Wix brand was at the top but I've never seen them in my area. I found them online at Rockauto.com. BTW...good call on the procedure 2003KJ and I also would add that a person might want to wipe the filter mounting surface on the motor before installing just to make sure its clean AND the old gasket isn't still there. I changed oil on an old '87 Plymouth Horizon, took it for a test drive and was maybe a block away from home when the idiot light came on. Popped the hood...oil spewing everywhere. Shut 'er down and removed the filter...yep...old gasket still on there! D'oh! I always check now and spin the new filter on hand-tight one complete revolution if possible. #-o

Click to expand...

HAHAHA, you said Plymouth Horizon My Horizon lasted a good long time until the ****** dropped my reverse gear and it just wasn't worth repairing anymore.

But yes, similar story on, no other than, my Plymouth Horizon. It was also with a FRAM filter, go figure. After one melted apart in my hands as I was taking it off, I was just so excited to finally get the thing off the nipple that I didn't even notice half of the gasket still stuck up there. Had I looked at the mangled hulk of the FRAM, I still wouldn't have known considering how little was left of it and what a mess the pieces were in. It seriously looked like a destroyed beer can. Not to mention parts of it were so thin that it looked like a beer can that someone had thrown into a bonfire. You know what I am talking about...whole sections reduced to paper thin remnants. I did not make it around the block, though. I fired it up in the driveway and got out to look underneath for leaks...and found one. One that was spewing about half a quart a second all over the driveway. Once I had killed the engine, duh, I isolated it to the oil filter and kicked myself for having to drain an entire engine's worth of Castrol out of there just to take the filter off and get that crescent remnant of a gasket out of there.

FRAM is complete garbage. Cut one open after it's run 3000 miles some time and shock yourself just for fun. I have seen so many of them completely disintegrated after the most basic use. I only use Purolators. They're great filters, anyway, and the tests further prove it. Plus they are always on sale for much less than FRAM. I have heard decent things about K&N, but I would never be one to buy them. Just not worth it and I am honestly not even a fan of their air filters. They're decent, yeah, but overhyped.

Mobil 1

I've used Mobil 1 synthetic and it's a good oil.

Bennett said:

ENGINE OIL CHANGE
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals described in Maintenance Schedules. Run engine until achieving normal operating temperature.

(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn engine off.
(2) Remove oil fill cap.
(3) Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
(4) Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase drain.
(5) Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug if damaged.
(6) Install drain plug in crankcase.

(7) Remove oil filter - All engines are equipped with a high quality fullflow, disposable type oil filter. DaimlerChrysler Corporation recommends a Mopart or equivalent oil filter be used.

(7.1) Position a drain pan under the oil filter.
(7.2) Using a suitable oil filter wrench loosen filter.
(7.3) Rotate the oil filter counterclockwise (Fig. 73)to remove it from the cylinder block oil filter boss.
(7.4) When filter separates from cylinder block oil filter boss, tip gasket end upward to minimize oil spill. Remove filter from vehicle. NOTE: Make sure filter gasket was removed with filter.
(7.5) With a wiping cloth, clean the gasket sealing surface of oil and grime.
(8) Install a new oil filter.
(8.1) Lightly lubricate oil filter gasket with engine oil.
(8.2) Thread filter onto adapter nipple. When gasket makes contact with sealing surface, (Fig. 74)hand tighten filter one full turn, do not over tighten.
(9) Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with 5 quarts of the specified type of engine oil described in this section.
(10) Install oil fill cap.
(11) Start engine and inspect for leaks.
(12) Stop engine and inspect oil level.

As a side note, if you have a skid plate installed, ensure that no oil has spilled onto the top of it. Cleaning with a utility towel should do the trick.

First Oil Change on a New Vehicle? The filter is really tightened from the factory. Like REALLY tightened. You might consider having your first oil change done @ your friendly Jeep dealer.

Click to expand...

You forgot to add the part where you must lay rags up under the oil filter because there will be a lot of oil leaking out when you unscrew that tilted filter. Not one of the better ideas mounting an oil filter tilted so it leaks upon disassembly.