I ran a Thrush welded muffler on the KJ for several years until it rusted out. Now onto a rockauto stainless thru-flow type.
No jobber tailpipe I jave found is as good as the original so far as good diameter and not rusting away quickly. I used up the first one, and now onto another used one...
The latch is fastened to the lower gate with two nuts over oval holes. You may need to loosen the nuts and slide the latch rearward. Or possibly the nuts have worked loose already and thats why you have the problem.
All I know about the anti-theft (2005) is you have to use the original type key with the fob. Having a generic key cut (off an original) wont start the jeep. The fob has to be in proximity of the ignition/jeep.
The glass latch is probably still closed from pulling the swing door open.
If you know were to poke in there with a screwdriver, you can pop it open pretty easy. If you take off the pastic panel inside, it is really obvious. I believe the metal part below the black plastic "shoe" has to be...
+1 on generic wheel silver, also called argent.
I run two sets of wheels. The steels are semi-gloss black. The alum ones I went with dark graphite metallic.
Thats a bummer. I had hoped the hi-pinion could have been used to reduce the half shaft angles. That would take some serious cradle mods I guess.
I recall JBA doing the steel front diff, and settling on the low pinion because of hi-pinion fitment issues.
I briefly looked at using the 8.25"...
Basic Dana 30 traction aids fit.
I ran a powertrax no-slip for a while. It was pretty amazing, but did not play nice with my np242 swap, so out it came.
Now i have a Tru-Trac to go in next time the front diff comes out for overhaul.
Thats basically a knockoff of the teraflex kit. Steel rear spacers there instead of plastic. No bumpstops though.
I had to get aftermarket upper arms after the teraflex kit. Could not align with stock arms.
Edit: KK strut forks are good for a little lift too.
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