Went ahead and installed link extension

[rockymountain]

I just got too curious and decided to order a link extension from Jeepin by Al to see what exactly it would do. I think it looks pretty beefy IMO and makes the tri-link level. Here are the pics I took right after I got it bolted up.

You must be registered for see images

You must be registered for see images

This was with the weight of the jeep on the axle. Perfectly level.

You must be registered for see images

Here you can see that at full flex with a lift you will BANG the tri-link on the body and make a nice little dent.

You must be registered for see images

On my first test drive it definitely feels different. It feels more solid back there, but maybe because the worn out bushings are at a better position. When I got back the tri-link is now just a bit angled at a negative angle now, opposite of before. Nothing to be concerned about though.

I also kept the nut sac off too. I didn't feel any vibrations. If anything I have less vibration now.

 

[Marlon_JB2]

So THAT is what that's for. I saw it in Mudd's Garage 1.0 and never really understood what it was for...

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

Thanks for the post rockymountain - I've been thinking about the tri-link angle with a lift. Like yours my control arm has a dent right where it meets the body and I'm only at 22.5 in the back. Not much room left for any kind of articulation.

I'm gonna check out JBA's site to order one of those.

Bob

 

[tjkj2002]

I've seen some of those bent,just watch them closely as that tri-link is the only thing cenetring that rear axle.

 

[rockymountain]

I've seen some of those bent,just watch them closely as that tri-link is the only thing cenetring that rear axle.

I'll definitely keep my eye on it. I think for me it will be ok. I don't really push my KJ too hard. I wanted to experiment with it more than anything and I'm not looking for an ultimate fix for the rear tri-link. I think it would be stronger if it were one piece, or just a complete link replacement would be even better. Anyone want to fab one up? I'll test it for ya!! :badger_1:

The fact is that you will need to replace your trilink bushings sooner than later if you lift your KJ. Keeping the boomerang level I think is a necessity if not something you should really consider.

 

[J-Thompson]

Am I the only person who sees the rear "tri link"
as being easily up gradeable?

You could for sure bring an end to the worn
tri link saga

 

[rockymountain]

Am I the only person who sees the rear "tri link"
as being easily up gradeable?

You could for sure bring an end to the worn
tri link saga

I think you are. To a guy like me with no fab experience let alone skills this is my only option.

If you want I'd like to hear what you have in mind and test one of your ideas out.

 

[ThunderbirdJunkie]

The "solid" feeling may come from increased antisquat.

 

[tommudd]

Good and bad points on those
thats why I had one , installed, removed, and sold
Had one in my hand again this weekend at Marlins ( JBAs)
but nope not for me
would never hold me without additional mods

 

[rockymountain]

The solid feeling comes from the rear end not shifting back and forth like a small pickup truck when hitting bumps like expansion joints that are popping up.

 

[ThunderbirdJunkie]

He installed a balljoint spacer, that is not going remove slop from the worn out bushings.

 

[LetFreedomRing]

Good and bad points on those
thats why I had one , installed, removed, and sold
Had one in my hand again this weekend at Marlins ( JBAs)
but nope not for me
would never hold me without additional mods

Just wondering if you could further explain the good and bad points. I just recently replaced my rear A-arm and would like to have this one last a little longer. Since I have a manual transmission, the a-arm takes more of a beating than if I had an automatic.

 

[rockymountain]

Developed a CLANG today. Come to find out the sway bar started contacting the bottom bolt of the extension. I took out 2 washers tonmove the bolt head back a little and put some stainless washers between the sway bar and the lower control arm to raise it up a hair.

So that's one flaw I found already with this.

 

[J-Thompson]

I think you are. To a guy like me with no fab experience let alone skills this is my only option.

If you want I'd like to hear what you have in mind and test one of your ideas out.

Problem is I need a KJ at the house to measure and fab
off of
But DOM is fairly cheep
Johnny Joints are not to high
Flat bar is easy and cheep
Build a new "Y" with Johnny Joints on all 3 ends
Use "builder parts" to make the axle end
adjustable
Build new "frame" mounts that are flipped 90* so
the mounting bolt is parallel to the ground
Bild an axle mount that would hold the Johnny Joint

Parts cost maybe $200
Build cost will depend on skill level

 

[rockymountain]

I appreciate your thoughts. Those Johnny joints would be nice. That is half of what Marlin had in mind with his 4 link solution. If I was 4" or higher I'd consider it, but I'm not and don't plan to be.

Right now the road manners of my KJ are almost perfect the way I want it to be. I'm extremely **** about it and sense almost any vibration and stuff like that. I mostly drive on the road, so what I have is good enough. If I wheeled it every weekend I'd do something else. Right now I can dive it into a turn and feel very confident. I'm gonna give a local garage a call and see if they'll press in new bushings on my boomerang. Then it will be pretty nice I think. I plan to keep this updated as I go.

Thanks again J

 

[STW]

J-Thompson,
I had the same thoughts. Johnny Joints and DOM tubing. After the house remodel, that "mod" is on the list. I talked to someone (not Marlin) at JBA about this and he said that they had tried this and it allowed a lot of road noise to travel into the cab.

The other benefit I see to replacing the Tri (and the lower control arms) would be to move the rear axle back a bit for larger tires.

S

 

[tommudd]

J-Thompson,
I had the same thoughts. Johnny Joints and DOM tubing. After the house remodel, that "mod" is on the list. I talked to someone (not Marlin) at JBA about this and he said that they had tried this and it allowed a lot of road noise to travel into the cab.

The other benefit I see to replacing the Tri (and the lower control arms) would be to move the rear axle back a bit for larger tires.

S

And yes you would and do get a ton of road noise up in to the cab with a set up like that
Another reason not to go that route.
To move the axle back there are other things to consider besides "just moving it back, and you'd have to be going way higher than what we normally do to need to do it

 

[Ry' N Jen]

Is that Link Extension worth the $51.58 Marlin wants for it?
I don't know, we had 4.5"+ when first lifted and our Rig drives super comfortable, stiff but not spine jarring or tooth cracking. now with 3.5 plus ish it still drives killer. Rancho shocks are starting to get a little to soft for my liking.
Ya, so I don't know if it would be a worth while piece of kit to add to our Rig.

Interesting topic though.

 

[rockymountain]

I made an appointment next sat to get new bushings pressed into the upper control arm. The balljoint is fine. I'll then have brand new Moog bushings and the boomerang will sit level at rest rather than tweaked to high heaven. The bushings should last a while, more like stock.

I know one difference I feel for sure, and that is you don't really notice the rear flexing as much. It is doing the same thing, but it is more subtle. Not that it is flexing less, but that you don't feel it. It seems more natural. Hopefully I can see the full benefit once I get the new bushings put in.

If it makes the bushings last more like stock height then I'd say it's worth $50.

 

[Ry' N Jen]

Maybe if I have a spare $52.00 I'll buy one and try it out for myself as well and check it out.
The least that could happen is seeing it off to a fellow member.