Belt tensioner bolt stripped

Joe200man · Feb 19, 2014

Been trying to get my belt tensioner bolt out that the head is stripped out on. Tried the Irwin bolt extractor sockets and it just stripped it out more. Thinking about cutting the tensioner apart somehow? I'm guessing if I can get the head of the bolt cut off somehow the stud would prob come out by hand. The idler pulley is out so I was gonna replace the whole thing. Looks like the original, 138,000 miles

Joe200man · Feb 22, 2014

Any ideas at all? Should I just buy an idler pulley for it and deal with the tensioner when it breaks? I just don't want to be stranded on the side of the road, especially when I know I can't just unbolt it and replace it on the side of the road

CzarKJ · Feb 22, 2014

Old trick is to cut a slot in the bolt head and get it out with a hefty screwdriver or pry bar.

Snail Farmer · Feb 22, 2014

Just cut the head of the bolt off.. a cut off wheel or a drill will work.. even easier if you're replacing the tensioner you don't have to care if you mess it up in the process.

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Joe200man · Feb 22, 2014

I got a pretty good grip on it when I tried the bolt extractor socket and was putting out on it pretty hard before it stripped the head more so I don't think a screwdriver is gonna work. And the bolt sits inside of the tensioner which is why I don't know how to go about cutting it. I guess I can just start hacking away at the tensioner with the cut off wheel

02blue · Feb 22, 2014

I know what you mean about the recessed bolt so I betting not enough room for a drill. I've done the drill before and it works but need room for a straight shot at it. I think the cutoff wheel is the best idea if you can't get in there.

95whtzr2 · Feb 23, 2014

Might try a size smaller socket, maybe an SAE if its metric, or metric if its SAE (can't remember off hand). Get one that almost fits onto it but not quite, hammer it on there where you can't get it off and try that. I have done this for lug nuts that were recessed and it usually works- granted there's a lot more room dealing with wheels.

I would use a cheap socket as it will be ruined when you get the bolt off.

Joe200man · Feb 23, 2014

95whtzr2 said:
Might try a size smaller socket, maybe an SAE if its metric, or metric if its SAE (can't remember off hand). Get one that almost fits onto it but not quite, hammer it on there where you can't get it off and try that. I have done this for lug nuts that were recessed and it usually works- granted there's a lot more room dealing with wheels.

I would use a cheap socket as it will be ruined when you get the bolt off.

I tried that too. The head is pretty much round. Nothing really to grab on to

02blue · Feb 23, 2014

Isn't that pulley a hard plastic? Can you just bust it up and get a saws-all in there?

Joe200man · Feb 23, 2014

02blue said:
Isn't that pulley a hard plastic? Can you just bust it up and get a saws-all in there?

I can get the pulleys off, I'm trying to replace the tensioner itself

Snail Farmer · Feb 24, 2014

Well it'll be more work but the sure fire way to do it would be to remove the grill and radiator, and drill the head off. Not really a whole lot of easy options unfortunately.

Joe200man · Feb 24, 2014

Got it out today. Couple of minutes with a cut off wheel and it was done.

metalmoto · Oct 12, 2015

Same problem here

I wanted to replace my thermostat, and you need to remove the tensioner first.
It's a 13MM btw. I was going to try one of those rounded bolt remover sockets first. But they never worked on my lug nuts, just rounded them, and I had to cut them off, and replace the studs. Drilling is another option, but you would need special "right angle" drill. They also have these "right angle" adapters that fit into a regular drill chuck. After looking closer at my belt tensioner, I plan to replace it soon anyway. Then I can get to the thermostat! Oh what fun, this will be:mad3:

Jbergun · Oct 14, 2015

I used the extractor sockets too if that dont work idk what else to say but chop away. I had tried a larger extractor then worked my way down to the smallest one i could fit on it my bolt was also rounded up good. The previous owner got rtv all over the threads and must have installed it with an impact. Here are my results.

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That was after torching it with map gas hitting it with the impact hammer. Then i got my hands on a set of extractor sockets and poof came right off.

metalmoto · Feb 27, 2016

Well, I was able to replace my thermostat, after removing one of the pulleys on the tensioner. The Tensioner itself seems to be fine. So I'm leaving that alone for now..
Thank you all for your help!

mgb · Jun 25, 2017

Joe200man said:
Got it out today. Couple of minutes with a cut off wheel and it was done.

Where did you get a replacement bolt?

HoosierJeeper · Jun 25, 2017

Tensioner should come with a new bolt, just replaced mine with a Gates one and it did.

Interesting how some people have issues and others don't. My OEM one came off easy at 164k..yeah it didn't owe me anything. LOL

GunnerSchenck · Jun 25, 2017

Dayco tensioner didn't come with one either.. But mine came out pretty easy..

I'm sure you could find a replacement bolt on moparpartsonline or the likes..

Conundrum2006 · Jun 25, 2017

Two of these bolts were hard to get lose the one on the original motor with 9-10 years of use, but the most difficult was the 2012 motor it actually ruined that bolt head.
Mopar do not come with the bolt, interesting that gates do come with the bolt. So far I have t for the part # for that bolt but haven't search hard for it either.

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uss2defiant · Jun 25, 2017

i think I have one that came with my new tensioner lying around.
either that or my old one. Let me know if you need it.

Belt tensioner bolt stripped

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