Top spacer plate question

rjkj2005 said:

First off. The liberty does not have struts. The spacer plates add length to the lift. Basically a 3/8 spacer will add 1/3 inch to the lift. They are used to level the lift from either side to side or front to back

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rjkj2005 said:

A strut is a necessary part of the suspension. A vehicle cannot drive without a strut. AG can drive without the coil over shock although it would squat.

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KJ604 said:

ok so im going to order my spring and struts from a local shop. my question is what does the top spacer plate consist of do i need to order it from jba? and how do i order just the top plate i cant find it anywhere.

i want to do spring and struts and shocks and put the top spacer plate on the front and leave it at that for now. get wheels and tires sorted out then worry about the clevis lift. does it make sense to do things this way?

Thanks in advance

going with OME 927 and 948 BTW

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rjkj2005 said:

First off. The liberty does not have struts. The spacer plates add length to the lift. Basically a 3/8 spacer will add 1/3 inch to the lift. They are used to level the lift from either side to side or front to back

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rjkj2005 said:

Vehicles that don't have an upper control arm use struts. The strut is part of the vehicles mechanical suspension and steering system. With out the strut installed the vehicle can not be driven.
A vehicle that has an upper control arm uses a shock to dampen road vibrations. And a separate spring system to give the vehicle lift. (Coil overs shocks, coil springs or torsion bars) But if you remove the shock the vehicle could still be driven and steered.

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Apex said:

I put the .500" clevis spacer from JBA with the 927s up front and so far no problems. It was to match height with the two extra isos in the rear. I'm replacing my LCA/steering rack bushings soon so I might order new CVs, have a buddy machine them down for me, and do the top plates while I'm at it. I want to see how high I can take the IFS without doing a cradle drop. I already need the Tri-Angulated 4-Link in the back due to drifeshaft vibrations so that's the next hurdle, then the long arms. No point in trading ground clearance for bigger tires. Best I can tell, a little under 5" of total lift might be the max.

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TwoBobsKJ said:

No.

The spacer from JBA is 1/4" thick which will add 1/2" to the lift. A 3/8" spacer (very hard to find anymore) will add 3/4" to the lift.



This argument has been going on as long as JeepKJ.com has been around. JBA calls them struts, but technically the KJ has coilover shocks. True, due to the upper control arm the front spring/shock combo shouldn't be called a strut but for conversation on here "strut" will suffice :waytogo:

To the OP...That 927/948 combo will treat you right (I have some experience with them arty52: ) What shocks are you going with? And you can add the clevis at any time - and you don't HAVE to install conduit nuts between the clevis and the ring on the shock. The conduit nuts help ensure the measurement is correct; you can actually loosen the clevis bolt and open up the gap by 3/8" and tighten the clevis bolt back down and you'll have your clevis lift. Might as well do it when you install the springs/shocks so you don't have to do a 2nd alignment.

Bob

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rjkj2005 said:

Vehicles that don't have an upper control arm use struts. The strut is part of the vehicles mechanical suspension and steering system. With out the strut installed the vehicle can not be driven.
A vehicle that has an upper control arm uses a shock to dampen road vibrations. And a separate spring system to give the vehicle lift. (Coil overs shocks, coil springs or torsion bars) But if you remove the shock the vehicle could still be driven and steered.

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