Shot intermediate shaft?

Is my intermediate shaft shot? Or does this extending out mean my differential could be damaged? I'm assuming I need to replace intermediate and cv on this side?

Checking if people can advise what I'm in for

Is my diff likely empty of gear oil?

I am doing this very thing, while replacing the right side ball joints. I have known the shaft seal was leaking, but it was a ‘get to it someday’ thing. Now, I had the knuckle off and pulled the cv axle, because, why not —- The inner boot was torn when the jeep came down after the ball joint failed.

Anyway, a groove is worn (ground) into the shaft and the housing is dry as a bone in the axle tube. I had planned on replacing the bearing and seal while the cv shaft is out, but now need to find either a replacement intermediate shaft - or - an offset bearing that would allow the damaged intermediate shaft to be used, but the bearing sits back about 3/4 inch from the damaged area.

We used to do this years back on rear axle applications, but I can not find a mention of the repair bearing for this application.

RenKJ said:

Is my intermediate shaft shot? Or does this extending out mean my differential could be damaged? I'm assuming I need to replace intermediate and cv on this side?

Checking if people can advise what I'm in for

Is my diff likely empty of gear oil?

Click to expand...

- if it is dry, count on the shaft being damaged. There is a good parts diagram on Crown Automotive that shows the exploded view, but no prices as they sell only to ‘trade (pro shops) accounts’.

So - plan on the cv, intermediate, bearing, seal.

If you have never had it down this far, you will need to remove the clevis from shock and lower control arm to allow the cv shaft to come thru.

DadOSix said:

- if it is dry, count on the shaft being damaged. There is a good parts diagram on Crown Automotive that shows the exploded view, but no prices as they sell only to ‘trade (pro shops) accounts’.

So - plan on the cv, intermediate, bearing, seal.

If you have never had it down this far, you will need to remove the clevis from shock and lower control arm to allow the cv shaft to come thru.

Click to expand...

I wonder if you could just insert a spacer between the bearing and seal to move the seal out a fraction to give it a new surface to run on?
The other thing worth a look is a speedy sleeve to recover the surface.

KJowner said:

I wonder if you could just insert a spacer between the bearing and seal to move the seal out a fraction to give it a new surface to run on?
The other thing worth a look is a speedy sleeve to recover the surface.

Click to expand...

Possibly. The seal surface looks decent. Concern is the shaft where the bearing runs is considerably worn from lack of lube. I will try and find a pic of it.

DadOSix said:

Possibly. The seal surface looks decent. Concern is the shaft where the bearing runs is considerably worn from lack of lube. I will try and find a pic of it.

Click to expand...

Ahh, that's a bit more tricky.

We're you able to separate the CV from the intermediate?

This has been my trouble - both times inseparable because the splines are fubar'd. Intermediate shafts are available. My last one was from summit racing.

On another note, our 2005 has plastic bushings. Ordering the replacement part from Spicer got me caged needle bearings instead. Happier with that.

u2slow said:

We're you able to separate the CV from the intermediate?

This has been my trouble - both times inseparable because the splines are fubar'd. Intermediate shafts are available. My last one was from summit racing.

On another note, our 2005 has plastic bushings. Ordering the replacement part from Spicer got me caged needle bearings instead. Happier with that.

Click to expand...

Yes. I hold em by the intermediate shaft and after spraying the splined area with FreeAll rust eater stuff, soak it a while then smack the inner cv cup downward while holding the shaft. Usually 3-4 good whacks separates the assembly.

Mine is the roller bearing, so unless i can find or fabricate an axle saver bearing, will have to fibd a new or used shaft.

You're luckier than me on the spline. Mine were not rusty, but worn in manner that it behaved like a wobble-extension. Have still not been able to separate them.

I don't imagine you will find an intact used one.

Edit: found a link to a new one including the Spicer part #

u2slow said:

You're luckier than me on the spline. Mine were not rusty, but worn in manner that it behaved like a wobble-extension. Have still not been able to separate them.

I don't imagine you will find an intact used one.

Edit: found a link to a new one including the Spicer part #

2002-2007 Jeep KJ Liberty RH Front Inner Axle Shaft 4X4 Dana 30 | C&M Gearworks

Click to expand...

Thanks for that link!

If there were still a true machinist here in town, I would just take it to the shop and have him either weld it up and turn it back to spec, or fit a sleeve over the damage and move on.

There are, old style, axle savers for heavier gear like GM rear ends. We used such on my dad's 80's caddy that tore up the axle - in essence, the 'saver' is an offset bearing ( fits further down the axle tube, and an integrated seal to ride where stock was. Nifty idea that saved quite a few owners big bucks, even back then.!