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KingKJ

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I'm looking for lockers for front and rear for my liberty and am wondering where I can buy them and will they be compatible if I regear to 4.10
Does anyone have some links to where I can buy them or some estimated costs? I'd like to keep it as budget friendly as possible but also don't want to cheap out and put bad parts into the vehicle.
 

duderz7

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Anything that fits a dana 30 should fit the front as long as we're only talking locker and not gear. Chrysler 8.25 is most likely what's in the rear. No particular links, but there's lots of stuff out there in Google land.
 

KingKJ

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Anything that fits a dana 30 should fit the front as long as we're only talking locker and not gear. Chrysler 8.25 is most likely what's in the rear. No particular links, but there's lots of stuff out there in Google land.
would anything the fits the dana 30 fit even if I had a different gear ratio in there? I am planning on finding some 4.10 gears for the front
 

duderz7

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would anything the fits the dana 30 fit even if I had a different gear ratio in there? I am planning on finding some 4.10 gears for the front
As long as whatever you choose also fits 4.10 you should be good. I'm running a "Spartan helical" some say it won't fit, but I've been running it for a couple years with 4.10s no problem. Eaton has a chart on their website which shows our diff as well as the dana 30 that's in other Jeep taking the same part number.
 

lfhoward

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I have a D30 Spartan Helical sitting on my shelf for my eventual re-gear. I also have a C8.25 TORQ Locker for the rear waiting to go in. Time and money are the limiting factors. Maybe in the summer…
 

Chris Lepper

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would anything the fits the dana 30 fit even if I had a different gear ratio in there? I am planning on finding some 4.10 gears for the front
I don't think "anything that fits a Dana 30 " Will fit the KJ Dana 30 IFS . If you go to OX.com you'll see they have nothing for the IFS (Independent front suspension)
 

duderz7

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I don't think "anything that fits a Dana 30 " Will fit the KJ Dana 30 IFS . If you go to OX.com you'll see they have nothing for the IFS (Independent front suspension)
The gears are certainly not interchangeable, but the diff carrier is. Just ask the Spartan helical diff that was built with the standard dana 30 in mind that's currently working perfectly in my dana 30a
 

Chris Lepper

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Good to know, so an Ox for dana 30 would work in my
The gears are certainly not interchangeable, but the diff carrier is. Just ask the Spartan helical diff that was built with the standard dana 30 in mind that's currently working perfectly in my dana 30a
2006 liberty with 3.73 ratio?
 

u2slow

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Good to know, so an Ox for dana 30 would work in my

2006 liberty with 3.73 ratio?

Not likely. It's a special diff cover on the KJ.

I ran a powetrax no-slip for a while. It's a lunchbox style so works with any ratio.

The full-carrier replacement locker (i.e. TrueTrac) is a more involved install. The carrier break is 3.54- and 3.73+ for the Dana 30.
 

Chris Lepper

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Not likely. It's a special diff cover on the KJ.

I ran a powetrax no-slip for a while. It's a lunchbox style so works with any ratio.

The full-carrier replacement locker (i.e. TrueTrac) is a more involved install. The carrier break is 3.54- and 3.73+ for the Dana 30.
Well Dang. Does ARB make one that would work? As well as their reinforced diff cover, I've read the aluminum 30A housing can crack under load easier than the steel counterparts.
 

u2slow

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Well Dang. Does ARB make one that would work? As well as their reinforced diff cover, I've read the aluminum 30A housing can crack under load easier than the steel counterparts.

Don't know. My level of commitment was a lunchbox style. Completely invisible in 2wd. Housing held fine. Reason I removed it was I swapped in the np242 - wanted a fulltime mode; fulltime mode didn't like the locker backlash; so I didn't want to risk breaking the tcase.
 

Shankster

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Just to be clear, the "Spartan Helical" is not a locker, it's a mechanical type (as opposed to a clutch type) limited slip differential or LSD, often referred to as a Torsen. I also have one in my front diff and it works in both the Dana 30 and the Dana 30a. It was $259 off Amazon so very budget friendly. The Eaton Detroit Truetrac 912A585 is a similar design - some trust it more than the Spartan since it's been around longer but it costs more. When I was shopping around it seemed that putting a real locker in the 30a was not recommended since they're so fragile. I've had no issues with my Spartan other than that it doesn't perform like a locker when you need it to - when one front wheel has traction and the other has zero traction the one with zero traction spins uselessly and the one with traction doesn't do a thing. You're supposed to be able to hit the brakes to load up the spinning wheel and then the wheel with traction starts moving but I'm not sure how well that works. It seems to work better than an open diff but not as good as a locker.

I also have a Torsen type LSD in my rear diff but it's a Powertrax Grip Pro GT308229 (for the Chrysler 8.25). I paid $495, I think off ebay. It hasn't given me any issues either other than the same problem described above. I did the rear first and I got stuck on the trail in a couple of situations - applying the brakes didn't work very well, maybe because my rear (drum) brakes suck and I probably just locked up the front wheels so they ended up doing nothing. Maybe applying the parking brake would have been the key but don't think I thought of that at the time. Anyway, I wish I'd done a real locker in the rear which would have given me a more trail-capable Liberty. I may go that direction in the next year or 2 but not sure what type of locker I'd go for.

Both my LSDs will accept 4.10 gears but I'm still on 3.73s.

Make sure you identify your rear diff before buying anything - is it a Chrysler 8.25 or a Dana 35?

As duderz7 says, just google "jeep liberty locker" or "jeep liberty locking differential" or "dana 30 locker" or "chrysler 8.25 locker" or "dana 35 locker" (if it turns out that's what you have in the rear). There seem to be multiple styles of locker out there - there are some good videos describing the different types that I watched a few years back I'm sure you could find.

Also, the installation work is not trivial, especially for the front axle (it has to come out of the vehicle) - if you're going to regear at some point I'd do all the work at once. Installing lockers / LSDs now and then coming back later to regear would be a LOT of labor.
 

duderz7

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I agree with the above, I have the Spartan helical up front and rebuilt the stock trackloc when I regeared a bit ago. I've found that rather than using the brakes to engage the limited slips feathering the throttle works well without the drag of braking. I've got a video of my Jeep with one front tire in the air and while it does spin a bit the other front tire also spins enough to kick up a little dirt. True lockers would of course be better, but again, I'd be concerned for the strength of the front diff.
 

Chris Lepper

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Don't know. My level of commitment was a lunchbox style. Completely invisible in 2wd. Housing held fine. Reason I removed it was I swapped in the np242 - wanted a fulltime mode; fulltime mode didn't like the locker backlash; so I didn't want to risk breaking the tcase.
Thanks. I was wondering about the lunch box backlash.
Just to be clear, the "Spartan Helical" is not a locker, it's a mechanical type (as opposed to a clutch type) limited slip differential or LSD, often referred to as a Torsen. I also have one in my front diff and it works in both the Dana 30 and the Dana 30a. It was $259 off Amazon so very budget friendly. The Eaton Detroit Truetrac 912A585 is a similar design - some trust it more than the Spartan since it's been around longer but it costs more. When I was shopping around it seemed that putting a real locker in the 30a was not recommended since they're so fragile. I've had no issues with my Spartan other than that it doesn't perform like a locker when you need it to - when one front wheel has traction and the other has zero traction the one with zero traction spins uselessly and the one with traction doesn't do a thing. You're supposed to be able to hit the brakes to load up the spinning wheel and then the wheel with traction starts moving but I'm not sure how well that works. It seems to work better than an open diff but not as good as a locker.

I also have a Torsen type LSD in my rear diff but it's a Powertrax Grip Pro GT308229 (for the Chrysler 8.25). I paid $495, I think off ebay. It hasn't given me any issues either other than the same problem described above. I did the rear first and I got stuck on the trail in a couple of situations - applying the brakes didn't work very well, maybe because my rear (drum) brakes suck and I probably just locked up the front wheels so they ended up doing nothing. Maybe applying the parking brake would have been the key but don't think I thought of that at the time. Anyway, I wish I'd done a real locker in the rear which would have given me a more trail-capable Liberty. I may go that direction in the next year or 2 but not sure what type of locker I'd go for.

Both my LSDs will accept 4.10 gears but I'm still on 3.73s.

Make sure you identify your rear diff before buying anything - is it a Chrysler 8.25 or a Dana 35?

As duderz7 says, just google "jeep liberty locker" or "jeep liberty locking differential" or "dana 30 locker" or "chrysler 8.25 locker" or "dana 35 locker" (if it turns out that's what you have in the rear). There seem to be multiple styles of locker out there - there are some good videos describing the different types that I watched a few years back I'm sure you could find.

Also, the installation work is not trivial, especially for the front axle (it has to come out of the vehicle) - if you're going to regear at some point I'd do all the work at once. Installing lockers / LSDs now and then coming back later to regear would be a LOT of labor.
Thanks. After all I've researched, I think I'll go with an OX in the rear and leave the front for now. The chances of me needing both lockers in the desert are slim. I don't intend to do rock crawling or even "Let's see if I can go up that!?" I just want to go where I need to go.
 

Shankster

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Thanks. I was wondering about the lunch box backlash.

Thanks. After all I've researched, I think I'll go with an OX in the rear and leave the front for now. The chances of me needing both lockers in the desert are slim. I don't intend to do rock crawling or even "Let's see if I can go up that!?" I just want to go where I need to go.
So which of the OX switching mechanisms are you looking at? Air, electric or manual? Manual looks tempting but where would you mount the lever and is there a good route to mount the cable in a Liberty?
 

u2slow

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So which of the OX switching mechanisms are you looking at? Air, electric or manual? Manual looks tempting but where would you mount the lever and is there a good route to mount the cable in a Liberty?

Better figure out the diff cover (housing surface) difference detail D30 vs D30A before commiting to the OX.

I can't find the relevant thread at the moment... but I believe the KJ cover is shallower, and the housing is deeper.
 

Chris Lepper

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So which of the OX switching mechanisms are you looking at? Air, electric or manual? Manual looks tempting but where would you mount the lever and is there a good route to mount the cable in a Liberty?
Actually thinking electric
 

Chris Lepper

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Better figure out the diff cover (housing surface) difference detail D30 vs D30A before commiting to the OX.

I can't find the relevant thread at the moment... but I believe the KJ cover is shallower, and the housing is deeper.
No, for the rear it's the Chrysler 8.25
 

Rokk

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I’m gonna reveal some information that will seriously set some of you off, but try not to lose it ok?
I have a kk, but I think the same principles apply.
Since I wanted the piece of mind of a front locker, but I plan to use it as a last resort due to the weakness of the aluminum front differential I bought a junk yard front differential, it was super cheap, then I put in an air locker I got from alibaba. If you search for the arb model number you can probably still find it. It came with a locker, pump, and harness for about a third of the price of an arb. Honestly the locker looks well made, but who knows. Regeared at the same time. Having most of the work done before I touched the vehicle was great, and I have a spare if it cracks
 

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