So pretty much I discovered this last week that my Liberty is burning oil at a quick rate and it is most likely a head gasket issue. I had to drill holes above the cats after a vacuum line failed and I've been getting small amounts of oil leaking from the holes I drilled as well as when starting it spews smoke out the exhaust. Luckily the gasket is not completely gone and I'm not getting any coolant mixing with the oil. I'm just wondering any tips about how to go about replacing the gaskets and any parts that I should look into replacing, checking, or potentially upgrading while I have the heads removed from the Jeep. I don't plan on digging any deeper than the heads unless I discover problems with the pistons/piston rings which then I'll probably have to take the motor out in order to continue on the repairs.
Replacing Head Gaskets
- Thread starter KingKJ
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
If the gasket has failed, you very likely need the head surfaced. It sux, but that is the nature of aluminum.
I used the felpro blue gasket. It was 1/4 the price on Amazon vs my local auto parts store. I also only did one side.
I used the felpro blue gasket. It was 1/4 the price on Amazon vs my local auto parts store. I also only did one side.
Alright, I'll have to see once I actually get it off how bad the gasket is, but I don't think it's all the way dead just because I'm not mixing coolant yet so I'm assuming the gasket hasn't completely failed, but it is starting to fail. Also I plan on doing both sides just because they are both 225k miles old and in order to get to the side that I think is the problem, I remove everything anyway so I don't see why I would bother with doing one side when I'll clear most of the stuff anyway.
Are you sure this is a head gasket issue? Is one plug oily? Have you checked the compression and looked at the valve guides and stem seals?
At 225k you are probably looking at a very worn set of pistons and bores.
At 225k you are probably looking at a very worn set of pistons and bores.
I managed to do the one head (passenger) without removing the ps pump, water pump, or opening the timing case.
It isn't the prescribed method, but it saved me time and incidental parts. This was at 305k, and it had dropped a valve seat. YMMV.
Edit: aluminum heads typically distort from heat, and that causes the HG to lose its seal. It is unusual for a MLS gasket to fail/deteriorate on its own accord. That's why it's important to get the head surface true again.
Last edited:
We just replaced the spark plugs and the engine is also throwing misfires still, haven't checked compression, the valve guides and stem seals will be looked at during the teardown process. I'm hoping the pistons aren't too bad, but I'm also a bit worried just because of age and the fact I've driven while overheating twice.
Honestly didn't know those are prescribed to come off lol, I was talking about all of the stuff that's located on top of the engine that us visibly in the way.
The FSM wants you to tear it all down so you can access the chain and tensioners - preferably renew them also. And gain access to pin the tensioner back for reinstalling the cam sprocket. I managed to jig the tensioner business with a coat hanger and mechanics wire from above.
