The 1/4" would be to measure the resistance on the pinion bearings - there is a spec for that - I forget but it's like 10 inch pounds. You crank down on the pinion nut a little at a time and measure the rotational torque required to turn the pinion shaft as you go.
Don't think my 1/2" torque...
I hear ya. I could certainly fail but I'm determined to do it myself. I'm a reasonably capable shade-tree mechanic (mostly at the other end of the vehicle though) and also a Professional Engineer so will take my time and do my research and hopefully end up OK.
OK, thanks. I have a buddy with a little (1/4") beam style torque wrench (for tightening carbon bicycle parts) so hopefully I can monitor the resistance on the bearings as I ramp up the torque.
So are you also saying stay away from Koyo? - I was just googling Koyo vs Timken and it seemed...
I know the center pin ain't right (and could be a catastrophe waiting to happen) - just want to know if that might cause the whine. I've never done any kind of diff work other than change the lube. There's a first time for everything though I suppose.
Just on the off chance you have the same issue I had - vehicle would occasionally not start after sitting overnight and the almost new battery would be completely dead. Traced a parasitic drain to the radio and also the door lock switches. Figured it was the satellite radio the previous owner...
I've replaced a bunch of cracked evap hoses above the rear axle (Autozone had fuel hose by the foot that worked perfectly) and seemed to solve my constantly cycling evap solenoid cycling issue (at least it's quieter now). Sounds like you've been there done all that too though.
In regard to scan...
Well I'll have the entire parts kit before I dive into the project so I guess I'll see how motivated I feel - I'm almost hoping the pinion bearings feel crunchy or loose and then I'll be forced to do the right thing with no chance for regret. I have a buddy with every tool under the sun and a...
That's one of the parts that scares me - 250 ft-lbs I've heard (sounds like yours was even more!), and me crawling around under the thing as it sits on jack stands. Then if you overdo it on the torque you need to pull it apart again and order a new crush sleeve. I just see a potential for me...
I know, I know, I should do it right. Like I said though, I suspect it's been redone at some point in the past, maybe recently and if I do everything but the pinion bearings it seems pretty straightforward - adding the pinion bearings makes it a bear of a job by the looks of it which will...
I’m hoping to get some input from some of you who have experience troubleshooting / servicing / repairing differentials. My plan in the next few weeks is to replace the stock open carrier in my rear differential with a helical gear (Torsen style) LSD in my 02 Liberty 3.7L 4x4 with the 8.25”...
Figured I should put some closure on this just in case it can help someone else:
So I decided to put my money where my mouth was and buy the cheapest ignition lock I could find. Got one on ebay for 10 bucks. Quality was actually very good and appeared equivalent and externally identical to the...
Yep, but inexpensive doesn't always = cheap and expensive doesn't always = quality. I understand that the Big 3 select suppliers that can meet their specifications at the lowest bid price. I may be wrong but I envision a Mopar warehouse with a dwindling supply of low-bid parts manufactured many...
Thanks. Based on your advice I went shopping (online) for a new ignition switch and in the process came across a video of how to reset tumblers yourself on a new lock cylinder to your existing key (go to Rock Auto and find Ignition Lock Cylinder and click on "info" for the Standard Motor...
So after chasing what I thought was a parasitic current drain I figured out that I was pulling out the key in the ACC position which was leaving some stuff energized and draining my battery overnight. Turns out I can start the vehicle, then pull out the key in that position and the car will stay...
Thanks for the response Duster. I got my problem solved - a lot simpler than I though, by charging the battery overnight like you suggest at a low (2A) rate. See my earlier post.
Hope you get yours figured out - my next step was going to be to unhook the battery and connect the 2 cable ends...
The key symbol did show up when ignition was in the on position (prior to turning it to start) but quickly went out. I did hear the fuel pump come on briefly each time. Anyway, all a moot point now. I disconnected the battery and charged it overnight based on info I got off another forum for...
So I bought a 02 Limited, 3.7L 4x4 with bad rod-knock in November and just got the motor installed after a complete rebuild. It started just fine and I drove it around town, 4 or 5 times, probably 20 miles total with no real issues other than discovering the speedometer doesn't work. I was...
Not sure if I'll ever figure out the whole story with the different methods but I went with my gut and used the later process. I doubt there is much difference in the end and I haven't lost any sleep over the last 3 days which is hopefully a good sign. I promise I'll report back if anything bad...
Still haven't decided which way to go but getting really antsy - was going to call the dealer tomorrow (Monday) but not real confident they'll go to the trouble of cornering a mechanic (an old, experienced mechanic, if they even have one). Not sure if I can stand to twiddle my thumbs all day...
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