I believe the electric fan assembly also constitutes the fan shroud. I have had vehicles before that didn't cool properly when the shroud was missing, although that's usually been a slow-speed problem. Highway speed tends to move all the necessary air regardless.
Depends. I would say auto lockers like a lockright or spartan are more likely to shock-load and cause damage. Something with smoother or controllable engagement should be less likely to cause harm. I ran a No-Slip for this reason. Didn't harm anything in the 3 yrs or so that I ran it.
Better figure out the diff cover (housing surface) difference detail D30 vs D30A before commiting to the OX.
I can't find the relevant thread at the moment... but I believe the KJ cover is shallower, and the housing is deeper.
Thinking a long the lines of the crank sensor and/or O2 sensor (was a code for the latter).
Used to have some funny things going on with low idle and occasion hard start. After changing those sensors, never came back.
Don't know. My level of commitment was a lunchbox style. Completely invisible in 2wd. Housing held fine. Reason I removed it was I swapped in the np242 - wanted a fulltime mode; fulltime mode didn't like the locker backlash; so I didn't want to risk breaking the tcase.
Not likely. It's a special diff cover on the KJ.
I ran a powetrax no-slip for a while. It's a lunchbox style so works with any ratio.
The full-carrier replacement locker (i.e. TrueTrac) is a more involved install. The carrier break is 3.54- and 3.73+ for the Dana 30.
Those aluminum spacers look similar to the Rough Country lift.
"Sport" means base model. "Limited" has more chrome trim. "Renegade" has skid plates and some extra 'tough-looking' plastic.
I drove the jeep on axle stands to isolate my drivetrain noise. (Thought it was the t-case).
After trying both 2wd and 4wd with no sound change, I pulled the rear driveshaft. Then the sound went away. It was the rear axle pinion bearings.
You're luckier than me on the spline. Mine were not rusty, but worn in manner that it behaved like a wobble-extension. Have still not been able to separate them.
I don't imagine you will find an intact used one.
Edit: found a link to a new one including the Spicer part #...
We're you able to separate the CV from the intermediate?
This has been my trouble - both times inseparable because the splines are fubar'd. Intermediate shafts are available. My last one was from summit racing.
On another note, our 2005 has plastic bushings. Ordering the replacement part from...
Too late now. That KJ diff bracket is a new offering.
My first new $80 jobber arm is still sitting standby on my shelf. 309,000km now on a couple used arms and a set of bushings. I'm still ahead on $$.
They are cheap enough to just change in their entirety when they're shot. Not that hard to change either.
I tried new bushings once, and had to tack weld them in because the holes were stretched. Lift also angles the bushings and they tear faster. JBA had a bracket to alleviate that problem.
I'm not sure how easy or difficult they are to change on their own.
I picked up a spare used steering rack and PS pump just in case. My rack had started leaking, but stopped before I got to changing it.
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