Sound like wheel bearing to me.
Sticking caliper yields obviously hot brakes usually. Pulling to the side, and resistance to rolling.
CV axles usually arent a problem until the boots are split and the grease has left the building.
We received the recall notice several years ago. On following up with it, the dealer actually refused to install the fix (a new receiver hitch) because they deemed the existing hitch as sufficient.
I've had several vehicles with rear fuel tanks over the years. Never concerned me.
I am...
It could also be the toe setting. It tends to change as suspension sags.
If it is out of range for alignment, your easiest fixes are complete replacement struts, or shimming with a top plate or conduit nuts. Another possibility is to swap in the slightly longer KK strut forks.
This thread discusses the OME springs and shows where the conduit nuts would be used
https://www.jeepkj.com/threads/help-with-front-too-high-after-ome-install.75516/#post-768645
Fwiw, I stopped at 30" tires and regeared from 3.55 axles to 3.73. It made the most difference at highway speeds; where 6th had no power, and sometimes had to dig down to 4th for a hill. The nice thing is a set of 3.73's is in every automatic KJ with a blown up V6 - which i scored for $500...
IMHO, these front diffs are a nice unit to learn on because the whole thing is relatively light/small, and you can do it at a work bench.
Another cache of dana 30 stuff.... Volvo rwd cars. Not exactly sure what traction aids they used from the factory.
I'd never buy a rebuilt, and cost is why i suggested a broken one. A 4.10 one like that has sat at a wrecker near me for over 5 years. Ours is manual so the 3.55 to 3.73 swap was enough.
You can pop the front diff out and still drive it as a 2wd. Take your time installing gears and such.
Fwiw...
The rack bushings are an easy job anytime. BTDT.
Check www.car-part.com for a front carrier assembly. Even if you can find a broken one. A new 4.10 super 30 r&p is cresting $1000Cad right now.
I dunno what can be done with trans reprogramming on these. I drive a couple (stock) auto ones at...
I took a 242 out of an '03 and put an '04 231 in. (Both auto.) Tcase shifter is different. Sold the '03 KJ promptly. I had both KJs so i wasn't chasing parts. I think it was all the same otherwise.
Edit: the 242 is now in the '05 6spd KJ. Either driveshaft works. I used the auto driveshaft...
I can check the thickness when i get home in about a week. I want to say 3/8" but it might be 1/2". The bolt spacing and diameter can be measured on any KJ. Bolts are little longer is all.
No plugged hole on mine.... factory, cheap jobber, or timken.
Our '05 is a factory non-ABS. Rather pleased with that actually.
If the sensor reaches into the bearing, I wouldnt want an empty hole to lose grease, or let water/dirt in.
I did your swap too and didnt realize they was a fulltime light until I drove a factory one years later.
I wondered if the lamp is simply missing from the dash cluster. I havent checked yet.
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