Teraflex's longer bumpstops would prevent the shock from bottoming out (i.e. max compression).
I put in Rancho shocks with the slightly stiffer CRD coils.
Is it the politics of courier companies being unable to deliver to postal boxes? I run into that... domestic parcels too.
P2P did need a document signed to accept packages on my behalf.
I used https://p2pparcel.com/ for an ebay purchase this summer. (2 transmission rebuild kits) $5 or so. Showed the receipt at the border and they did not charge any sales tax. Probably a fluke, but that offset my time and fuel nicely.
The 5-on-4.5" pattern trailer axle basically tops out at 3500#. In the absence of weight markings, bearing size (or part numbers) could help narrow it down.
These engines seems to have a lot of lifespan variability. Nearly at 305,000km with no major engine work or problems. My parts KJ has either a blown HG or cracked head at 172,000km. Bought and sold another that was running fine at around 200,000km. A friend had a crank snap on him, dont know...
Lots of KJ's come up for sale with a bad cyl head or trans.
I would pickup one of those for a few hundred $$$. I would also hang onto the heads off the old engine just in case.
How are the bearings in the ends of the axle tubes? And the journal surface of the CV's? Check how much angulation that spline coupling with the passenger shaft can achieve; it should be virtually zero. If it angles, that could be your rough/crunchy noise.
I havent touched the oil pan. Kind of...
Sure. Then even try again with the driveshaft in, in 4Hi. (Plug off the holes in the diff to keep gear oil in.)
Im pretty sure youre going to find the obvious problem on removal of the axle shafts.
I have fought this several times. Its usually a combination of prybars, ratchet strap or come-along, and a long center punch to use for aligning the bolt holes.
Fwiw, the TeraFlex budget boost system I got ended up needing aftermarket upper control arms anyway.
Other ideas for just a smidge of lift... KK strut forks, and/or diesel coil springs. (I run both, with the teraflex).
Take the axle shafts out so you can prove the noise, drag, etc is the diff bearings or not.
I can almost promise you the outer bearings and splined-coupling to the passenger shaft is what wears out first.
I find buying the individual rebuild pieces cheaper a la carte. Kits often cost more because they dont sell the same volume.
Also be sure to get the housing end bearings. Dont think theyre part of any kit.
https://www.amazon.ca/Yukon-YB-AX-007-Bearing-Differential/dp/B00EHKQ4R2
I would reposition the jackstands under the control arms to better simulate road conditions.
Are you able to move the inner CV joints up and down in the diff housing with a prybar? Thats usually a sign those outer bearings are shot.
I guess i got lucky when i snagged Timken wheel bearings...
Are you supporting the front of the jeep under the suspension? (Loaded) Or is the suspension at full droop? This can make a difference on cv and bearing noises.
I have pulled the whole front diff out before and drove the jeep for several months while i slowly worked on the front diff. The outer...
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