1. potentials like Tim's post
2. AC drain on firewall missing would cause the leak into passenger side.
3. missing factory grommet on the sides below the A pillar.
Yes, I believe you understood what i was trying to say but just in case, it's the red outline is what I'm trying to convey.
i did a thin bead of RTV in between the edge of the waterpump and the gasket. (if you look at it, it'll be pretty obvious what I'm trying to say).
Think of it as the RTV...
oh I forgot to mention that i did put a very small bead of RTV on the outside of the gasket.
So from the outside of the WP to the inside, you have the RTV followed by the gasket.
Basically, on the edge of the WP and a thin layer of RTV on the gasket.
I did this for extra insurance although it...
same thing happened to me but not as severe as yours.
I use Jb weld and some painters tape to keep it in place.
I chose to overfill then sand it down flat to be flushed with the rest of the mating surface.
I've had to do this about 4-5 years ago and so far still holding.
My waterpump was from...
if you are going to AutoZone, you'll need both cooling system test kit - 940427T & 647893T.
I believe the single loaner tool from O'reilys will still work as well.
the hole in the overflow section of the tank is there to spill out when the overflow section if overflowed with coolant.
I wonder if there's an internal crack between the pressurized side (expansion tank) and the overflow side. Maybe you can use some water + red food coloring to see if it leaks...
The crack on my reservoir tank was of course facing the firewall and actually took me some time to locate it.
I guess lesson learned here is to just unbolt the tank and remove it off the studs so you can absolutely check the entire tank.
but YMMV.
Good luck
pressure test your system with a loaner tool from your LAPS.
This sounds like what I've experienced in the past.
I had a crack in my reservoir tank. This caused my coolant to all flow into the overflow during the cool down period.
i would try to use an IR thermometer gun to look at the temperature of the hoses going in and out of the heater core.
I would think there would be a few degrees difference if you have the heat on in the cab going.
If there isn't a difference, perhaps the heater core is bad.
The fan clutch needs to be removed in order to remove the fan shroud.
if you don't want to remove it, you can cut a notch on the fan shroud.
Search for that here and you'll see threads about it.
the flexible window gear will continue to extend out of its housing when you lower the window.
Basically the plastic window glass mount that attaches to this flex gear is broken.
there are cheap replacement on ebay or the expensive stuff that I don't remember the name.
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