I think I have all the bolt holes measured out for the new front mounting plate.
Using an aluminum yard stick, transfer punches, combination square, and some dial calipers, I think I have pretty good measurement for the hole locations.
Here are all the hole locations I was able to measure with...
I have considered including multiple mounting holes in the brackets to accommodate a diff drop. However, I need to measure the clearance between my Jeep's differential and skid plate as I believe that would be the limiting factor.
Today's Progress
I cut the driver's housing extension off the...
To attach the stock 3 bolt "front" mounting bracket, I plan on using the cover mounting bolts to attach a piece of plate steel. From my measurements, a 1/2 inch place will place the CVs spot on to where they are in the stock location.
Difference in distance between the cover mount and the CV...
I got a majority of the deconstruction complete. Some of the deeper cuts I will fill with weld and grind flush. On the passenger side, I cut the cast vacuum disconnect housing off the steel axle tube, to keep it is maximum length.
For the driver's side, I cut along the differential housing...
According to this LOST JEEPS thread, they mostly bolt in.
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=86525&sid=cdb8a1bed6a81d76a0076d20d3dc11bb
Vehicles with the factory tow pack had both the engine driven fan, and a "thinner" electric fan in the fan shroud. Leaving the pigtail harness for the fan unplugged shouldn't cause any issues, but you may get a DTC for it being unplugged.
Unfortunately, if it was flipped it would cause the CV shafts to spin in reverse since the ring gear would now be on the opposite side of the pinion gear.
I ordered new Liberty outer seals and bearings that are unique to the CVs to measure what size bores and depths are needed for housing...
Given that the steel diff is not available from JBA anymore. I have decided to try to make one myself.
It first starts with a Dana 30 front axle, this one is out of a 1994 Wrangler with 3.07 gears. This one was found locally for very cheap, however it has had some water (and mud) in it for...
I built a swing out tire carrier for my Rock Lizard Bumper. The carrier pivots on the bumper with the axle and spindle kit. The original tire mounting hardware on the holds a bracket that holds the latch and polyurethane support.
It has been on the jeep for over 5,000 miles without an issue...
I scored a new old stock Miller Tool 8696CC from eBay. I now have all the receiving cups and driver to remove all bushings from my suspension.
In the future, i plan on posting sizes for all the tools for people to make their own.
As wheel nut said, a large washer and a spring clip to fit on to the shaft. Available at a local hardware store.
https://www.jeepkj.com/threads/shifter-bushing-elimination-fix-possibly.75582/post-770575
I got the front knuckles, clevis brackets, and the rear brake brackets sand blasted. The rear axle had a leaking seal, and its time to replace the front wheel bearings. Getting everything painted today. With a bit of antisieze it come apart easier than before.
I did that repair relatively recently.
https://www.jeepkj.com/threads/trans-cooler-lines.38935/post-789706
I followed what Duster did, but removing the fan shroud and serpentine belt tensioner helps for access.
I prefer Akebono brand brake pads since they are made in the USA! I have them installed on 2 different jeeps and I have been happy with the performance.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.