You might try replacing the cap on your coolant reservoir tank. I bought an aftermarket one and it either didn't seal properly or the release pressure was too low so it caused my coolant to boil and I would loose coolant without any apparent leaks. Replacing it with Mopar one solved the problem...
The critical thing will be the hex size - I'd get under your Jeep and measure the holes and make sure whatever nutsert / rivnut you buy matches that. Then you can find the matching bolts. Hopefully you can find galvanized or zinc plated carbon steel - I apparently was only able to find bare...
I think I found some generic ones since I didn't want to take out a 2nd mortgage for the Mopar part. It's possible the factory ones fit snugger though but I remember thinking the ones I got were a decent fit.
I can't speak to the OME shocks but my Bilsteins with the OME springs dramatically improved the ride over stock. A really good compromise between handling and cushy ride. Work great off road too. My rear Bilsteins are 24-185240 by the way - for a Dakota Quad Cab 4x4 so not sure what the...
On some locations you also have the option of just drilling a hole up through the top of whatever member you're attaching to and installing a long bolt with a nut. I did that where I could and nutserts on the others. I made the mistake of not buying the tool and tried to make my own with a nut...
Yep, I'll do it myself. Since I just installed my rear LSD 8k miles ago I don't plan on messing with the pinion again so hopefully quick and easy. I think the biggest challenge will be mounting and wiring the switch.
I decided that replacement control arms were inexpensive enough that it wasn't worth messing with pressing the bushings in and out. If you plan on having a shop doing the press work I'd call and ask for pricing first. I had a shop press bearings in and out of a Subaru knuckle once and it cost...
I believe both diffs and transmission have breathers. My rear diff's was dry rotted so just replaced it with some hose from Autozone. I think rather than extend that one you should just replace it - it's pretty short anyway. I don't recall exactly where the front diff and transmission breathers...
Hope you're on the mend Chris. I remember seeing an Australian video review of what I suspect is the same locker (different branding) and the gal said that it was the same design as the older Eaton. I don't remember exactly but she said she liked this design better because it was more robust...
My Alibaba e-locker for my rear diff arrived today - almost 6 weeks so delivery was just as promised. It all looks good but since the locker is wrapped in that delicate brown oily paper to prevent rust I decided not to unwrap it completely yet (I have another project going right now so this one...
Another vote for the Zerex G05. It's formulated for the metallurgy in these engines (Prestone is not) and is a lot cheaper than the Mopar stuff. Last time I bought Zerex G05 NAPA had it on sale and it was cheaper than at Walmart.
"Where there's a will there's a way". As others have said, it might be painful and take an hour or 2 but you'll get it. The tip of the blade hitting the back of the pocket on every stroke at first will suck but you should be able to adjust your technique to minimize that. Maybe look for blades...
Sorry, I misunderstood - thought you wanted to insert the bolt and have 2 or 3 threads showing where it protruded out of the control arm. Makes perfect sense now.
Here is a 3rd vote for the oil pressure sender. I would replace it rather than trying to tighten it (they are fragile and can break off). It takes a big deep socket to get it on and off (I think 27mm or 1-1/16"). You can't get a wrench in there. It may be hard to get to - I did mine with the...
Yes, that's exactly what I did - saves a whole bunch of time and you end up with those bolts oriented the way Jeep should have done it in the first place. Don't go too short on that bolt - 3 or 4 threads doesn't sound like enough to me. Whenever I try to get a bolt "exactly" the right length it...
I don't remember. If that bearing comes apart easily (again I don't remember) you could just hold the inner part in your left hand and die grinder in right. If it's one that stays together just go with the flow and let it spin - the die grinder will spin way faster anyway and should ensure you...
I used a die grinder. A Dremel might work too. I'd wait till you have your LSD before diving in. Just keep taking a little off till they slip onto the LSD. Run the die grinder around and around inside the bore of the bearings.
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