ASD fuse timing

[Cushdaddy]

I am working on a 2002 liberty sport. Rebuilt the engine, 3.7l, installed it last weekend and the timing was off a tooth. I went to clock it back, and the wedge poped out and the tensioner expanded. I got the gear back on and it started and sounded good, but I didn't like how tight the chain was. I pulled the timing cover and pulled the tensioner, and reset it. The tension seems fine now, but I am blowing the ASD fuse. I pulled both valve covers this AM and it seems like I am off a half a tooth. It runs rough and idles up and down untill it finally dies. The drivers side V-6 is dead nut at 12 O'clock, but when I clock the passenger side either direction, I can't get the V-6 directly at 12. I had another one of these that blew the ASD fuse due to timing. Can I really be off a half tooth? Thanks.

 

[Cushdaddy]

I'm working on the IAC now I cleaned it out, but I don't think it's working. If I manufacture a vacuum leak, it will idle fine. But rough. It still feels like timing is off. Either the PO pulled the bulb for the CEL or the bulb died. I have codes for the intermittent cam sensor P1391 and the coils P0350's. I put a 40 amp fuse in the ASD slot, and it is not liking it. Sick of blowing the 30 every time I start it. I don't let it run long.

 

[GunnerSchenck]

Your IAC would throw it's own code if not functioning. It also would not start up or run without your foot on the gas to act as the IAC.

 

[Billwill]

What number exactly is the ASD fuse that you say keeps blowing and where is it located and what Amp Rating does it have?

 

[Cushdaddy]

It's the 30 under the hood. I know the IAC should throw it's own code, but the idle reving up and down made me want to clean it. I don't see how the chain tension being uneven would cause the timing to look like it's off a tooth. I think I am going to pull both valve covers again and take a look. The way the guides and tensioners are set up, it looks like they should pull the V-6 counter clockwise. The #1 cylinder looks like the V-6 is perfect at 12 O'clock with both valves closed at TDC. I pulled the plug on #1 and verified TDC. No matter how I clock the passenger side, it will not go to 12 O'clock perfectly. Really sick of working on this. Thanks.

 

[Cushdaddy]

Since there was no reply, I will let everyone know what happened. I let my son help with the timing, and he was off by a tooth on the crank gear. Had to pull the cover and line everything up again, but now it runs fine. Sat in the driveway and idled for a long time. No codes. ABS light is on, but no engine codes. Drive it back and forth in the driveway and it sounds good. Good power. Done some reading on the ABS light. I'll be pulling some wheels shortly. Or my son will.

 

[GunnerSchenck]

Glad you got your problem sorted out!
Did you pull the ABS code? If your speedometer is working properly then it's likely not the back sensor so no need to pull those wheels, therefore it's likely one of the front sensors, or the wiring to them. Did you unplug either one for some reason at some point? The connectors on them are prone to breaking if they're not set on the studs they slide down onto. If not pushed on the studs, they swing over a few inches and sit right next to the engine block and get very hot and brittle.