****** Frozen Plug! Have a laugh...

[chill]

So I replaced and added alot of fluids and things on Sat. Oil, F/R Dif. sparkplugs, headlights tire pressure...

But when it came to the xfer case, no good. This "B" is FROZEN. I tried ratchets, breaker bars, Deep creep, WD40, Beating on it. It's nnot comming loose.

You you see the inevitable. Stripped. The 10mm Allen still grabs but, I'm afraid to try anymore.

So I went to a couple of places to see if they could back it out and replace it. After three or four place the conclusion ws go to the dealer and let them do it (break it). I don't know...

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Help?!

 

[Okura_hubby]

You could take the top plug out (filler plug) and stick a siphon hose in and suck out that way..

I did mine this past week. The bottom was a bit snugger than the top going back in, I was worried it was cross threading so I took it out and redid it 2 more times. Even swapped plugs just to make sure.

There is a vid on youtube on how to do it, the guy used teflon tape when he redid it. I think that is to reduce gauling or seizing. He said it was to ensure a good seal.

If it has been significant amount of time between changes the dis-similar metals will gaul (bond like an alloy).

I agree with the advice you were given. I would just take it to them and say transfer case needs oil changed. I would mark the plug, take a sharpie and make an X pattern on it so when you pick it up, you can see if they were successful. Even if they didnt take it out as I said you could suck the fluid from the top hole with a siphon.

** Warning this comment below involves extreme measures, doing so may damage things. Proceed at your own risk. **

A thought after I saved this message.. And really its a NO NO.. Is goto Lowes or even Sears and get a 10MM allan - socket type thing.. Now have someone spot weild it to the nut. more like just pop then cool then pop on the other side, with the 6 sided contact and it weilded in you have the most solid connection. Yes your nut is toasted and you will need to acquire/buy a new one or live with the new connection you just made. But with it now securely attached to the socket you can put a breaker bar on it and use a hammer or even use your foot/leg against it to apply more leverage. Again this is risky as the transfer case is aluminum. If you do get it off use teflon tape or anti-sieze on the threads.

 

[chill]

You could take the top plug out (filler plug) and stick a siphon hose in and suck out that way..

I did mine this past week. The bottom was a bit snugger than the top going back in, I was worried it was cross threading so I took it out and redid it 2 more times. Even swapped plugs just to make sure.

There is a vid on youtube on how to do it, the guy used teflon tape when he redid it. I think that is to reduce gauling or seizing. He said it was to ensure a good seal.

If it has been significant amount of time between changes the dis-similar metals will gaul (bond like an alloy).

I agree with the advice you were given. I would just take it to them and say transfer case needs oil changed. I would mark the plug, take a sharpie and make an X pattern on it so when you pick it up, you can see if they were successful. Even if they didnt take it out as I said you could suck the fluid from the top hole with a siphon.

** Warning this comment below involves extreme measures, doing so may damage things. Proceed at your own risk. **

A thought after I saved this message.. And really its a NO NO.. Is goto Lowes or even Sears and get a 10MM allan - socket type thing.. Now have someone spot weild it to the nut. more like just pop then cool then pop on the other side, with the 6 sided contact and it weilded in you have the most solid connection. Yes your nut is toasted and you will need to acquire/buy a new one or live with the new connection you just made. But with it now securely attached to the socket you can put a breaker bar on it and use a hammer or even use your foot/leg against it to apply more leverage. Again this is risky as the transfer case is aluminum. If you do get it off use teflon tape or anti-sieze on the threads.

I kinda like this as a work around just for pure degree of difficulty. Just for clarification it is the filler plug that is seized.

 

[recoil44]

Had the exact same problem. My solution was a stubby easyout (Hanson 53211) and an electric impact wrench (Kawasaki 840017).

 

[SabaII]

Freightliner thought it would be a good idea to use these a lot. The welding is fine idea as it will heat and cool the plug which will help. I usually use my IR 1/2" impact and try to be nice. If it is really stripped you can try an extractor bit or if your thrifty the right size torx bit will pound in there. Worse comes to worse carefully drill it out. Good luck.

 

[tjkj2002]

If you have a propane/mapp gas torch use it to gently heat the aluminum housing around the plug,do not heat the plug,and then try again.I have done this on a few at work and it works.But like anything gotta be careful and if you do not feel comfortable doing this then don't as alot can go wrong and ATF is highly flammable.

 

[chill]

GOT IT!

Thanks for all the help.

 

[Okura_hubby]

Ok here is one.. (atleast for a laugh)

Take the drain plug out.. Drain it.. Then turn vehicle upside down (choose your method)..
Then fill. Replace plug. Turn vehicle right side up.. Tada..

May want to get a few matress's

SERIOUSLY THIS IS THE METHOD I WOULD USE..
I think the best, least likely chance of doing harm that you would have to fix. Is take it to Jeep/Dodge and ask them to service the transfer case.. Just put a big X on it so you can tell if they actually did remove the plug or not. Kinda making a temper seal with the marker.

 

[recoil44]

GOT IT!

Thanks for all the help.

Details. What did you end up doing to get it out?

 

[BjBnet]

Details. What did you end up doing to get it out?

+1

 

[chill]

I really don’t want to disappoint anyone here. I didn’t do anything fancy. If you look at the pic you can see that further inside the recess the metal is not striped out. My solution after examining the pic closer was to lift the KJ, put the socket into the recess and beat on it repetitively while spraying deepcreep into the area around the 10mm socket. This had the effect of astroglide and let the socket push its way deeper into the hole. (queue the 70’s disco) I then put a 1” pipe on the end of a breaker bar which of course lengthens the handle and all that. So you get the rest. Gradually it loosened up and popped. Sorry it wasn’t more than that.

 

[ridenby]

Cool beans,glad it worked.

 

[Dave]

Glad you finally got it out.

Dave

 

[JeepinJarhead03]

Well that's a lot less exciting than playing with a torch and a can of upside down compressed air or other "spot cooling" resources

glad ya got it out

 

[cajunrebel]

I had a couple stubborn drain plugs on a 89 Ford small block that I took out the other day. They were completely stripped. I tried a 1/8" pipe nipple extractor but it was a bit small for the job and stripped the plug. So I took a dremel with a carbide bur and went to town widening the stripped portion of the plug. Opened it up enough to fit a 1/4" extractor just barely. Hammered the piss outta that thing to get it in and then used a 26" breaker bar to remove it. Both came right out. I did not use the bur to cut any deeper, just to open it up enough to start the extractor in. Then I put the new plugs in with the paste type thread sealer. I did not have the different metals in my situation thankfully, but the motors cooling system saw a ton of abuse.

 

[Okura_hubby]

Approx how much fluid you put back in? I got about 1 1/2 bottles/qrts back in.

I assumed you got a new plug since that one is partial mangled. I would put teflon or antisieze on the threads..

Darn I wasnt waiting for more colorful ways of doing it..

 

[chill]

Once it broke loose I pulled it out and the fluid started ****** out onto the driveway. I jammed it back in quick, and plan to change it this weekend.
I will be using tef. tape on the threads. I'm also looking for a new OEM plug from somewhere.

I am suprised that ATF+4 is so expensive. I got a Qt. for like $5.00 (pennsoil). The capacity is like 3.4 pints so I hope it dosn't take much more than that.

 

[Okura_hubby]

What did you expect would happen if you removed the drain plug (laugh).. I had my drain pan and it missed it a bit.

Might see if your local junk yard has a Liby. if not you may source it http://www.car-part.com .

The ATP+4 is not that bad.. What I would recommend is do your trans and x-fer case at same time.. Then just be done with it all.

 

[chill]

Honestly, as this was the “check fill” plug I really didn’t expect it to flow out. Xfer case and fluid were both cold. I get the point though. I’m going to need a bigger drain pan anyway. It fills to quickly.

I do like the parts place you mentioned. I have a feeling that I may be visiting it often. LOL!

 

[ridenby]

I am suprised that ATF+4 is so expensive. I got a Qt. for like $5.00 (pennsoil). The capacity is like 3.4 pints so I hope it dosn't take much more than that.

I am hoping I misunderstood. The plug is in front diff?? Please do not use ATF in it. Try gear lube,please.