Hey all. i need to change just about all the calipers on my 05 liberty because they’re all dragging. The only thing that is stopping me is the brake bleeding. The only reason why is because I don’t want to be stuck for hours bleeding my brakes and going through brake fluid. Is there any tips and tricks on how to do it properly? Or any tools that would greatly help? I have the service manual and I will follow where to start first.
Brake bleeding
- Thread starter Cbach
- Start date
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You can buy simple brake bleeders or even use a 16 oz bottle
fill with fluid and hose going from bleeder down into bottle making sure it is in brake fluid, open bleeder and pump brkes
Start with right rear, left rear, right front and finally left front
Im sure there are several utube vids on this since people want to do those kinds of things
fill with fluid and hose going from bleeder down into bottle making sure it is in brake fluid, open bleeder and pump brkes
Start with right rear, left rear, right front and finally left front
Im sure there are several utube vids on this since people want to do those kinds of things
jeepop
Full Access Member
Personally, I think you should replace all the brake fluid over time. Since I have started doing that I have not had to replace a caliper or master cylinder.
turblediesel
memberable
Start bleeding the brake farthest from the master cylinder, and then the next farthest, and so on. I didn't get a hard pedal on mine until I bled at the junction block near the master cylinder (with abs). One more bleeding of the calipers did it. I like to run a tube from the caliper bleeder into a clear container of brake fluid so I can see when the bubbles quit. I think the book calls for press-hold-bleed instead of the traditional pump-press-hold-bleed method.
DadOSix
Full Access Member
Might want to consider changing all the hoses at the same time.
You can skimp on fluid, and likely get by with it, but figuring the age of the jeep, and the 'hygroscopic' nature of dot 3 or dot 4 fluid, i'd flush it all and be certain. Inexpensive peace of mind, imo.
If you are at all uncertain how to bleed, get a buddy to help who knows, or have a mechanic do it for you.
I do my own, but i've worked on brakes for 40 years.
JeepJeepster
Full Access Member
Speaking of the press and hold method, TJKJ use to say that you shouldn't press the brake pedal down further than it would normally travel. No idea if it will cause an issue, but the theory is it will damage the seal in the master cylinder since there is typically a ridge in the bore where the seal always stops in the same place. I have seen this ridge when taking apart a master cylinder.
sleazy rider
Retired moto tech and gearhead
Used to do it for a living and use a shop style power bleeder which requires a good air compressor. As suggested above, purge the old fluid completely. Draw fluid from each caliper till it runs clear and you'll be golden. Just don't let the reservoir run dry or you start over.
Where ya located? Someone might be willing to come by and help.
Where ya located? Someone might be willing to come by and help.
Johnny O
Just hangin' out.
I use this kit. Makes it an easy 1 person job: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...VDsLCBB0YwQFhEAQYBiABEgLEMfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
OldJoe
Member
OldJoe
Member
I've done my '04 Sport and my sons' Wranglers several times. I've done it myself with a Harbor Freight vacuum pump and also with a helper. Both ways worked fine. Find a Chris Fix video on YouTube. You'll be surprised how quick and easy it is.
I use a FOUR UNCLES 2L Vacuum Brake Bleeder that I bought off Amazon for $60. It requires an air compressor, but it makes the job stupid easy. I used it on our van when I flushed the brake fluid. I'm about to do the same on my truck and the Jeep.
Edit: This may be controversial, but I also upgrade the brake fluid to Bosch ESI6-32N. It will mix without issue with DOT 3, 4, and 5.1, but not 5 (silicone based).
Edit: This may be controversial, but I also upgrade the brake fluid to Bosch ESI6-32N. It will mix without issue with DOT 3, 4, and 5.1, but not 5 (silicone based).
Parkroad22
New Member
"Gravity is the simplest one-person brake bleeding method. Attach the hose to the bleed screw, open it up, and watch old brake fluid and air flow out of the lines like water through the Aqua Virgo aqueduct on the way to Rome." I used this method when I had to replace a rusted rear brake line and it worked magnificently. It takes a bit more time but there's no pumping, no muss, no fuss, and it's a One-Man Job! I'd also suggest you replace the rubber brake hoses, as they age they become soft and tend to bulge upon fluid pressure when the brake pedal is pressed causing less than great braking.
5 ways to bleed your brakes: Get the air out - Hagerty Media
For all of you DIYers, we've put together five ways to get bleed old brake fluid and air from the system and replace with fresh stuff.
www.hagerty.com
Last edited:
Brake fluid is cheap....
Dirty / Contaminated fluid is not your friend... that's why your doing calipers. . .
Use a Power Bleeder to push fluid through the Master Cylinder , ABS system, to remove air, contaminated old fluids etc out of the lines + calipers.
Bleeding an ABS system can be impossible when the system is drained out, just by pumping the system.
Dirty / Contaminated fluid is not your friend... that's why your doing calipers. . .
Use a Power Bleeder to push fluid through the Master Cylinder , ABS system, to remove air, contaminated old fluids etc out of the lines + calipers.
Bleeding an ABS system can be impossible when the system is drained out, just by pumping the system.
dchadjohnson
Full Access Member
EricTheCarGuy on youtube has a great video on DIY brake bleeding
Seeley have a single person brake bleeding kit it’s for sale via eBay at around 50quid it’s something I’m definitely thinking about getting myself
Watch the YouTube video on the seeley brake bleeder
Deb'nKJ
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I replaced a caliper probably a couple of months back.
Just bled same as everything since my '55 Ford. All that seems to have changed over the years is, for some reason, it's become easier, even without an assistant.
I've tried a few of these aids, all a needless complication.
Gravity bleeding? tried that on my 3rd XJ: took both rear bleed screws out, left it overnight, not a drop! Just needed 3 strokes on the pedal.
ABS - do not let the m/c assembly run dry or you will have serious problems, otherwise ignore all the mystique & bleed them same as everything else, just like Tom Mudd said right at the beginning - that's if you actually need to bleed all 4 corners (although on more modern systems, I've not found that to be the case, depending on the colour of the fluid that comes out, of course).
Just bled same as everything since my '55 Ford. All that seems to have changed over the years is, for some reason, it's become easier, even without an assistant.
I've tried a few of these aids, all a needless complication.
Gravity bleeding? tried that on my 3rd XJ: took both rear bleed screws out, left it overnight, not a drop! Just needed 3 strokes on the pedal.
ABS - do not let the m/c assembly run dry or you will have serious problems, otherwise ignore all the mystique & bleed them same as everything else, just like Tom Mudd said right at the beginning - that's if you actually need to bleed all 4 corners (although on more modern systems, I've not found that to be the case, depending on the colour of the fluid that comes out, of course).
Liberty For All
New Member
With a helper do you run the engine while he presses the pedal or can this be done with the engine off??
jeepop
Full Access Member
You can do with engine off.
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