Cannot Open Rear Tailgate

[ron.dittmer]

Our 2006 Liberty Sport 4x4 rear door (tailgate) won't open, but the window does. With all doors unlocked, when I pull on the rear handle, the rear window opens and I hear that 3 click sequence but the tail gate won't open. It started out as a rare intermittent problem, getting worse and worse over the months until now it won't open but on very rare occasion.

Is there something I can lubricate or clean contacts or something similar? Or is a new part required? If so, what do I order? I am confident I can manage the project as long as I have the right diagnosis.

Please Help!
Thanks,
Ron

 

[LibertyTC]

Sounds like you may need a new powered latch assembly.
There is inside of the tailgate a small square inspection panel. Remove it.
The FSM mentions that the gate can be unlocked, when power fails, by reaching in and pushing the lock lever down.

 

[Jbergun]

Thats it use the little square cut out to open the door and the whole back panel is help on by clips be gentle and start in a corner comes off easy goes back on easy

 

[turblediesel]

Your "click sequence" is the window glass release controlled by a tiny switch clipped to the opening handle. there's wires from it to a connector accesible through the access panel. I think a 10 mm wrench removes one nut or bolt that holds the handle on. Big plastic panel has plastic push keepers on the sides and bottom then push up to disengage the top. Mine cracked across the top where the plastic gets skinny.

 

[dude1116]

I have the same issue. The door itself won't unlock. For the time being, I reached in and unlocked the door from the inside. Bad side? It's always unlocked!

 

[ron.dittmer]

I removed the latch last night and examined it. It appeared to be in fine physical condition. No rust or other corrosion. With the two halves separated and the internal levers and actuators revealed, I had my wife lock and unlock the vehicle to learn the plastic-encased internal electronic actuator is very weak. I drilled a hole just large enough to accept the red tube of a can of WD-40 and flooded the internals. That resulted in no difference. So I will be ordering a new latch assembly. In the mean time, I re-installed the broken latch so my wife can use the Liberty while waiting.

I looked around on the internet and found an OEM supplier on ebay selling them for $122 +$6 shipping HERE. That seems a bit stiff. Can anyone recommend a lower priced alternative?

 

[ftaa]

wrecker.

 

[ron.dittmer]

wrecker.

Thanks but no thanks. For some parts "yes", but for that part "not for me". I just ordered the pricey new part in hopes it will outlast the rest of the vehicle of which we plan to keep for so many more years.

 

[M38 Bob]

Thanks but no thanks. For some parts "yes", but for that part "not for me". I just ordered the pricey new part in hopes it will outlast the rest of the vehicle of which we plan to keep for so many more years.

I'd feel the same way. Hoods, fenders, maybe even differentials, salvage OK. But if it's a consumable, or semi-consumable part, especially electrical, that's just buying more headache.

Bob

 

[LibertyTC]

Avondale wholesale parts list it at $128. 55360641AE - LOCK
Rock auto: DORMAN Part # 931693 $ 80
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?make=JEEP&ck[ID]=0&ck[idlist]=0&ck[viewcurrency]=CAD&ck[PHP_SESSION_ID]=h1cehqp6dum8151qe5u3dvnmm4

 

[ron.dittmer]

The part arrived quickly, but then my troubles started. Apparently when I reassembled the broken module, then reused it until the new part arrived, I did not watch the outer white latch feature during assembly of the module itself. This resulted in a "DOOR WON'T OPEN EVER" condition. After an hour of figuring what went wrong, and how to bend away the white lever, I finally got the door open. Then 10 minutes later the job was all done. Good thing I had left off the inner door panel while waiting for the part for the week.

Anyhow, all is well now.