Check Engine Light on Trail - then Blink and Beep

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

David13

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2020
Messages
254
Reaction score
120
Location
Central Utah Rocky Mtns
Saturday, Dec 4 I drove 100 miles to a trail head. Got gas, and the shut off didn't work so gas spilled down the side of Jeep, as happened at same station a month ago.

2008 Liberty Limited.

Onto the trail about 25 miles and ... check engine light. And rough running. Put the Autel code reader on, Powertrain Control Module - fail. Also it seemed code B1841, but I couldn't see much because with bright sun light I could only see a reflection off the glass. I tried shading it, but still ...

I have had this Jeep 11 months and over 4000 miles of use.

I decided to keep going. This was central Utah, middle of no where. No cell service. Even when I finally made it into the nearest town, no cell service, only certain parts of the town, Boulder, Utah. After 20 or 30 more miles the check engine light started blinking and beeping. Yes, I have read the glove box book, and yes, I do know what that means. However, it also would just revert to light on.

I ultimately made it 150 miles home, but running rough all the way, like on 4 or 5 cylinders, not 6.

With no cell service, and on a dirt road/trail at best, in sparsely populated areas, tow service would be next to nonexistent. AAA is mostly useless out there, no off road, only to the nearest service, etc. Plenty of excuses. But without cell service who could I call.

It was warm in the afternoon but at night? And zero traffic out there, to the east of Boulder, Utah.

So I drove home.

Where do I start on the diagnosis. Could be head gasket, or fuel injector(s), or coils, or PCM.

To use code diagnosis and live data, I need to run it. It kept starting and running but rough.

But I guess that's it.
dc
 

LibertyTC

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Oct 24, 2008
Messages
9,178
Reaction score
1,825
Location
B.C. Canada
Are battery terminals clean & tight? How old is battery> Load test the battery.
Sounds like PCM may have some issues. Try a re-set. Tape or clamp both battery terminals together away from battery for 40 minutes and see if the re-set helps.
When was the last time new spark plugs were installed? and check gaps.
2008- like coper core NGK ZFR-6F-11 gap at .043 inch.
Coil pack issues ? Are they the original coil packs?
Code B1841-Sunroof circuit IDK on that one.
 

David13

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2020
Messages
254
Reaction score
120
Location
Central Utah Rocky Mtns
Plugs new 3000 miles ago.

Battery voltage is going to be one of my first checks. Also PCM reset. I never did check parasitic draw. Sunroof circuit, could be a parasitic draw, and it could be battery/charger, but if so, why would it not stall out?

Coils, I'll look at.

I seem to have had some low/no heat on driver's side, which may have resolved.

I never did get round to draining radiator. It does have orange, but I also thought maybe the heater core was plugged (due to StopLeak which was to cover a leaky head gasket?)

I'm always suspicious. I wonder too if water pump works. I have a Mopar thermostat which I was going to put in with new HOAT.

Thanks for some ideas.
dc
 

Vin

New Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2021
Messages
6
Reaction score
4
Saturday, Dec 4 I drove 100 miles to a trail head. Got gas, and the shut off didn't work so gas spilled down the side of Jeep, as happened at same station a month ago.

2008 Liberty Limited.

Onto the trail about 25 miles and ... check engine light. And rough running. Put the Autel code reader on, Powertrain Control Module - fail. Also it seemed code B1841, but I couldn't see much because with bright sun light I could only see a reflection off the glass. I tried shading it, but still ...

I have had this Jeep 11 months and over 4000 miles of use.

I decided to keep going. This was central Utah, middle of no where. No cell service. Even when I finally made it into the nearest town, no cell service, only certain parts of the town, Boulder, Utah. After 20 or 30 more miles the check engine light started blinking and beeping. Yes, I have read the glove box book, and yes, I do know what that means. However, it also would just revert to light on.

I ultimately made it 150 miles home, but running rough all the way, like on 4 or 5 cylinders, not 6.

With no cell service, and on a dirt road/trail at best, in sparsely populated areas, tow service would be next to nonexistent. AAA is mostly useless out there, no off road, only to the nearest service, etc. Plenty of excuses. But without cell service who could I call.

It was warm in the afternoon but at night? And zero traffic out there, to the east of Boulder, Utah.

So I drove home.

Where do I start on the diagnosis. Could be head gasket, or fuel injector(s), or coils, or PCM.

To use code diagnosis and live data, I need to run it. It kept starting and running but rough.

But I guess that's it.
dc
I was thinking battery output or possibly an accessorie drawing power did anything get scraped or pulled (wiring) connector. Or possibly bad fuel??? Or this might sound stupid check your oil cap. I was drift crashing last winter out in flats some get kinda wicked bounced the battery out of box and loosened that was not tight. Small stuff big problems.
 

David13

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2020
Messages
254
Reaction score
120
Location
Central Utah Rocky Mtns
If there was stop leak used then, well replace it all , that stuff is terrible to have in a cooling system

Yes, it's terrible. Nothing but a cheap attempt to cover up a big problem.

And it's one of the best friends of the used car sales person, or person selling a used car.

Can be used to cover up a leaky head gasket.

I hope that's not my case, but it could be.

That's why my original plan was to drain and flush, and replace the thermostat. But it was derailed by a uncooperative deer, and then just many other things in life. Such as using the Jeep, and having it start and run nicely for over 4000 miles.
dc
 

tommudd

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Jul 14, 2005
Messages
22,450
Reaction score
3,649
Location
Southeastern Ohio
Flush is hard to do on your own on these best go to have the dealer do it
 

David13

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2020
Messages
254
Reaction score
120
Location
Central Utah Rocky Mtns
Flush is hard to do on your own on these best go to have the dealer do it


It would be nice if the only thing I had to do with my life was work on my car. But even then, I'd do other things.

I was thinking, I wonder if I ever had the dealer do anything to any car I ever owned, maybe before you were born, but no, not even then. In fact, I never in my life of more than 70 years have had a dealer do anything for me. You are certainly welcome to go to the dealer for your service, tho'.

I started driving the Jeep rather than do the flush and thermostat, and whatever else I might find because a deer did some serious modification to the front of my car. And, no, I didn't take the car to the body shop, nor dealer.

Thanks for the humor, tho'.
dc
 

tommudd

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Jul 14, 2005
Messages
22,450
Reaction score
3,649
Location
Southeastern Ohio
Before I was born??? you were driving at less than 3 years old ? WOW thats amazing
NOW the reason I say dealer is you can not do just a regular at home flush and get all that junk out, especially out of the heater core the way it is made
As far as me going to a dealer to have anything done, that was 1978 on a brand new all black Ford van I just bought ( and I worked there at the time)
My 04 KJ when I bought it brand new was detailed at the dealership and has never been in since, not even for recalls did them myself
I love people who make assumptions ; )
Enjoy your evening
 

Billwill

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2009
Messages
2,191
Reaction score
673
Location
White River, South Africa
I avoid the Dealers like the Plague but some things like replacing the Cam Belt on my CRD has to be done by them!

Yes there are excellent How To posts here that show how it is done but here in Darkest Africa the Special Tools, Cambelt Kits etc. are impossible to get.

Also getting to old to do these things myself!;)
 

David13

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2020
Messages
254
Reaction score
120
Location
Central Utah Rocky Mtns
Before I was born??? you were driving at less than 3 years old ? WOW thats amazing
NOW the reason I say dealer is you can not do just a regular at home flush and get all that junk out, especially out of the heater core the way it is made
As far as me going to a dealer to have anything done, that was 1978 on a brand new all black Ford van I just bought ( and I worked there at the time)
My 04 KJ when I bought it brand new was detailed at the dealership and has never been in since, not even for recalls did them myself
I love people who make assumptions ; )
Enjoy your evening
So you are assuming that someone actually put Stop Leak in there? I don't know that. I do know it is possible. I haven't drained the radiator yet to see if there is any evidence of that. I don't know the heater core is plugged. It's possible. I don't know if there is a thermostat in there, I have yet to find out. I have a new one to put in. I don't know if the water pump is working. I may end up putting a new one in.

But that's all for later.

My issue at this time is running issues as described above.
dc
 

David13

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2020
Messages
254
Reaction score
120
Location
Central Utah Rocky Mtns
I avoid the Dealers like the Plague but some things like replacing the Cam Belt on my CRD has to be done by them!

Yes there are excellent How To posts here that show how it is done but here in Darkest Africa the Special Tools, Cambelt Kits etc. are impossible to get.

Also getting to old to do these things myself!;)


I'm not too old yet.

And throughout the years I have had many people tell me about even the simplest repairs that they were "scared" to do them rather than take them to the dealer.

I never had such fears, and I'm not saying you do.

As to parts and tools, I too am in a remote extremely low population area and can only get most parts and tools online. And, the nearest dealer of anything is at least 150 miles.
And they charge too much and frequently get things wrong, or do it wrong.

So ... but I don't have a CRD.
dc
 

tommudd

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Jul 14, 2005
Messages
22,450
Reaction score
3,649
Location
Southeastern Ohio
So you are assuming that someone actually put Stop Leak in there? I don't know that. I do know it is possible. I haven't drained the radiator yet to see if there is any evidence of that. I don't know the heater core is plugged. It's possible. I don't know if there is a thermostat in there, I have yet to find out. I have a new one to put in. I don't know if the water pump is working. I may end up putting a new one in.

But that's all for later.

My issue at this time is running issues as described above.
dc
Your previous post
QUOTE
I never did get round to draining radiator. It does have orange, but I also thought maybe the heater core was plugged (due to StopLeak which was to cover a leaky head gasket?)
unquote
 

Glenn Dickson

New Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2021
Messages
18
Reaction score
11
Saturday, Dec 4 I drove 100 miles to a trail head. Got gas, and the shut off didn't work so gas spilled down the side of Jeep, as happened at same station a month ago.

2008 Liberty Limited.

Onto the trail about 25 miles and ... check engine light. And rough running. Put the Autel code reader on, Powertrain Control Module - fail. Also it seemed code B1841, but I couldn't see much because with bright sun light I could only see a reflection off the glass. I tried shading it, but still ...

I have had this Jeep 11 months and over 4000 miles of use.

I decided to keep going. This was central Utah, middle of no where. No cell service. Even when I finally made it into the nearest town, no cell service, only certain parts of the town, Boulder, Utah. After 20 or 30 more miles the check engine light started blinking and beeping. Yes, I have read the glove box book, and yes, I do know what that means. However, it also would just revert to light on.

I ultimately made it 150 miles home, but running rough all the way, like on 4 or 5 cylinders, not 6.

With no cell service, and on a dirt road/trail at best, in sparsely populated areas, tow service would be next to nonexistent. AAA is mostly useless out there, no off road, only to the nearest service, etc. Plenty of excuses. But without cell service who could I call.

It was warm in the afternoon but at night? And zero traffic out there, to the east of Boulder, Utah.

So I drove home.

Where do I start on the diagnosis. Could be head gasket, or fuel injector(s), or coils, or PCM.

To use code diagnosis and live data, I need to run it. It kept starting and running but rough.

But I guess that's it.
dc
Check you evap canister i had similar issues with a 2004 WJ where gas station attendants always topped up the tank. This sends raw fuel down the vapour hose to the charcoal evap canister and saturates it. This then throws a code and mine was running very poorly too. A few hundred dollars and a new canister later and all was well.
 
Top