Click, click, click- new KJ owner trying to troubleshoot noise

[Fur Trapper]

[ SOLVED ] Click, click, click- new KJ owner trying to troubleshoot noise

I purchased a 2003 Jeep Liberty Limited 3.7L 4x4 recently. I wanted something that could handle the mud and snow in the fall/winter when I am out trapping. Last few years I've used the family mini-van because I've had no real need for a vehicle of my own since I have a service truck that I drive for work.

I don't have any experience working on cars but I have a fair amount of tools and good mechanical knowledge from working in commercial hvac. My intention in buying a 2003 jeep with 104,000 miles on it was to fix it on my own as needed.

It seems, just like hvac, the hard part is troubleshooting and not the actual repair.

I've taken it on plenty of rough trails every weekend since I got it a month ago and it developed two problems. First it started idling rough and the exhaust started smelling. I changed the air filter, spark plugs and pcv valve and it now idles as smoothly as it did when I got it.

The second problem is a clicking noise coming from the left side- not sure if it is front or rear. It is only noticable at low speeds and clicks at the same frequency as the tire rotation. It does it while going straight and turning left. I havn't noticed it while turning right. Sometimes I hear it and sometimes I don't.

I jacked the jeep up and tried to check each wheel bearing. The back wheels are solid with no play to speak of. Both front wheels have some play but neither side is greater than the other so I assume the wheel hub bearings are good. I took the tires of and inspected the CV boots and I see no tears. I also changed the break pads while I had the wheels off and do not think it is a loose caliper.

Any experienced auto mechanics (amateur or professional) have any advice. Internet searches are leading me to believe it is the CV joint.

 

[dude1116]

I believe you just answered your question at the end of your post. CV joint sounds likely. I guess it's a driver's side one...but I hear that's actually more rare. Other's will be able to chime in where the failure probably is.

 

[motherto2]

The 06 I justbought for my son does the exact same thing. Only notice it when it's going slow. My stepdad sat in the back one evening while I drove it and we didn't notice the noise while he was sitting behind the driver's seat. Noticed again when he got out. Is that something dangerous? We thought it was something in the seat. We are getting ready to take a 500+ mile trip in a week to pick him up. Now I'm worried

 

[HoosierJeeper]

CV joint. Grab the joints and see which one has play. Not really dangerous, but it could get progressively worse.

 

[motherto2]

Well, I did some reading up on the CV joints and what to listen for, etc. Took it over to the local school parking lot and drove it backwards both ways, and it's not the CV joints. Plus, I just had a skid plate put on the gas tank about 3 weeks ago, and I would assume the mechanic would have seen grease if it was there (it's been making the noise since before that). It still sounds to me like the window is shaking around, but when stepdad sat back there he said it definitely wasn't the window.

 

[dude1116]

Well, I did some reading up on the CV joints and what to listen for, etc. Took it over to the local school parking lot and drove it backwards both ways, and it's not the CV joints. Plus, I just had a skid plate put on the gas tank about 3 weeks ago, and I would assume the mechanic would have seen grease if it was there (it's been making the noise since before that). It still sounds to me like the window is shaking around, but when stepdad sat back there he said it definitely wasn't the window.

It doesn't have to spew grease just yet. I have a CV that's going (doing the clicking around turns and what not, passenger side) and it hasn't spewed anything cause the boot is still good. It's the actual joint that's going bad. You can pick yourself up a cheap half-shaft for about $50 from Napa and just replace the whole thing and BAM! No more clicking.

 

[yellocoyote]

You have the CV joints that run from the front differential out to the wheels that can make noise when they start to fail - the boots don't have to be damaged to be a precursor to failure.

But then there is also the CV end of the front driveshaft (transfer case side) underneath the vehicle that are known to develop damaged/denigrated boots - if the grease becomes contaminated or dries out there, that can also be a source of ticking. If you're losing grease here, you typically don't see it spraying anyway unless you get down underneath and look for it (or look for the missing boot).

I always heard the clicking/ticking when I lost the grease on the driveshaft CV - I would check there also.

 

[Fur Trapper]

This seems inexpensive to me.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Gold-CV-Axle/2003-Jeep-Liberty-4WD/_/N-jkjqiZ6o2dc?itemIdentifier=402067_0_4281_78655

I haven't checked it for any play yet. This would be all I need though, right?

 

[HoosierJeeper]

NAPA reman ones are better quality and less money. If it's the passenger side, I'd look into getting the intermediate shaft that YC mentioned too, as the CV rusts to it. Drivers side all you need is the CV.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

YellowCoyote mentioned it and I agree with her - almost certainly the CV joint at the transfer case end of the front driveshaft.

The challenge trying to ID the sound of that CV joint is that it sits almost directly under the driver's seat - so when driving its tough to tell if the sound is coming from the front or rear. Do a search in the How-To section on "How to change the front driveshaft CV joint" (or something close to that.) There are pics there of a bad boot around the joint and I'll bet that is the problem. The replacement joint is $65 from driveshaftparts.com and about an hour of your time.

Bob

 

[Fur Trapper]

I found no radial movement in the joints but all four up front have some axial play. Not sure what to make of it.

I might go ahead and change the driver side and see if it goes away. I also put some silicone on the center hub caps to eliminate that as a possibility.

 

[Lady_Liberty]

I have this issue too, and overtime it has gotten louder and I also hear it at high speeds now. Think it could still be the CV joint?

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

I have this issue too, and overtime it has gotten louder and I also hear it at high speeds now. Think it could still be the CV joint?

First, Welcome to the forum Lady Liberty! arty52:

Check the CV joint at the transfer case end of the front driveshaft - the shaft that runs lengthwise and also connects to the front differential. The boot is known to disintegrate and therefore destroy the CV joint. It is an easy repair and under $100.

Follow this link for pics and instructions. To order the CV joint click here.

Bob

 

[Fur Trapper]

I had my wife drive it around the court and the noise was from the rear and not the front- glad I didn't replace that CV drive shaft.

I took the rear driver's side wheel and caliper off. Then I beat the snot out of the rotor and it wouldn't budge so I broke out a pry bar and it came loose and my loose, broken parking brake shoes (the pad portions) fell out from behind it.

I put it back together without the parking brake shoes for now and took it for a test drive and that was it.

PROBLEM SOLVED. Wo0t.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

Good call!

Those hi-hat parking brake shoes are somethin' aren't they? :freak3:

Mine are shot and I still haven't gotten up the gumption to replace the shoes. Sitting on the workbench and may be there a while yet. Just don't feel like pulling the axles out to do the job.

Bob

 

[MJ's 03 KJ]

@TwoBobsKJ @yellocoyote
Just joined the forum. Had my 03 up on a lift to check for this and none of the boots are torn; no grease spewing from any of the joints. However, I did a quick end-play check (shook each shaft back and forth) and found the center transfer case shaft could be moved fore/aft about 3/8" in both directions. I haven't changed anything yet, but I wanted to ask you if the shaft is serviceable--meaning is the joint a separate item or do I need a complete assembly. Also, is this difficult to do--have you done this repair before? Any tips? I'm technically proficient but I've never done a shaft repair before. Any advice would be great. Has anyone posted a step by step repair?

Thanks!!

 

[tjkj2002]

However, I did a quick end-play check (shook each shaft back and forth) and found the center transfer case shaft could be moved fore/aft about 3/8" in both directions.

Normal and must do this on the front driveshaft.Even though the KJ is IFS and the front diff and t-case are stationary they are mounted on rubber bushings that do move some so there must be some fore/aft play in the shaft joints to allow that movement.

On driveshafts with u-joints they use either a slipyoke (KJ rear shaft uses this) or a slip joint built into the driveshaft.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

@TwoBobsKJ @yellocoyote
Just joined the forum. Had my 03 up on a lift to check for this and none of the boots are torn; no grease spewing from any of the joints. However, I did a quick end-play check (shook each shaft back and forth) and found the center transfer case shaft could be moved fore/aft about 3/8" in both directions. I haven't changed anything yet, but I wanted to ask you if the shaft is serviceable--meaning is the joint a separate item or do I need a complete assembly. Also, is this difficult to do--have you done this repair before? Any tips? I'm technically proficient but I've never done a shaft repair before. Any advice would be great. Has anyone posted a step by step repair?

Thanks!!

What tjkj2002 said above is the gospel - there is normally some fore and aft movement so no worries there.

As for the CV joint at the transfer case end of the front driveshaft...You don't have to get an all new driveshaft as the CV joints on each end are serviceable. Yes, I've replaced the one at the transfer case end and it really is a straightforward repair. The joint is only $52 and free shipping from DriveShaftParts.com and takes less than an hour to replace. The How-To is here - it is a little dated in some posts (the links to distributors that sell the CV for instance) but the process is clear and complete.

Let us know what you end up doing. :waytogo:

Bob

 

[MJ's 03 KJ]

@tkkj2002 @TwoBobsKJ
hey thanks for your input guys! I'll post an update as soon as I can.