Daytime Running Lights

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n3qik

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I am a firm beliver in DRLs, so I wired the OME fog lamps to go on anytime the Liberty was running. Overtime I noticed the housings get very warm. Time to explore another way for DRLs. Found some 4" amber LED lights on eBay. At first was going to put them in the bumper but found they would not fit. Ponder for a few days and came up with this. Amber DRL in the holes for the OME fog lamps and add some 2x4 oval fog lamps in the outer holes of the bumper.

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gsbrockman

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n3qik said:
I am a firm beliver in DRLs, so I wired the OME fog lamps to go on anytime the Liberty was running.

Why didn't you instead just have the headlamps re-flashed as DRL's ? ](*,) :-s (Aeh)
Greg
 

n3qik

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There are questions about the re-flash, to do it one must change VIN # to a overseas number in the BCM. Once done, will this change/mess up if any other updates are added later.
 

melted

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Having done some research on adding DRL, here is my opinion.

Canadianizing your Libby to add DRL is very doable. You just need to buy the DRL module (a normal looking automotive relay BUT it isn't), take out the High Beam relay, and install the DRL relay in its rightful place in the junction block. Then convince someone who can program the BCM to change the country code to CANADA, and boom, you're done. There is no messing with VIN, and there are apparently no other changes (like to the odometer or emissions).

What this gives you in my opinion is stupid. The DRL relay includes some kind of pulse width modulation that simply pulses the voltage to the high beam filaments to provide about 60% of normal power. This provides oncoming traffic the ability to see you coming, but it doesn't illuminate your tail lights, so if you forget to ultimately turn on the lights at night; well you get the idea.


Perhaps a better method...

Disclaimer: I haven't actually done this (thought I might wait until a bit post warranty), so if you do it, and it breaks something - don't say I didn't warn you.

The multifunction switch has a clever resistor multiplex arrangement that tells the BCM what position has been selected. When the headlight switch is in the OFF position, the resistance between pins 4 and 5 is 3781 ohms; when it's in the ON position, the resistance is 349 ohms. So it struck me that if I leave the headlight switch on all the time, but fool the BCM that I have turned headlights off when I turn the ignition off - I can have "always on" low beams and tail lights whenever the KJ is running.

To do this, buy a regular automotive lighting relay ($5), and a resistor or two to make a value of 3432 ohms (+/- 10%). Cut and place this creation into the PK/RD wire between pin 5 (C1) of the MF sitch, and pin 5 (C2) of the BCM. Also connect a ground and a RUN power source.

The theory is that you have added 3432 ohms to the 349 present when the headlight switch is in the ON position, so the BCM thinks the switch is OFF. Then when you turn the ignition to RUN, the new relay energizes, and shorts out the resistor you added, leaving a resitance of 349 ohms, and so the BCM energizes the headlight relay. Turn off the ignition switch, the relay drops the short across the new resistor, and the BCM de-energizes the headlight relay. To the person who at one time asked how to make an auto headlight feature, add a photoresistor to this rig, and Bob's your uncle.

Here's a modified 2005 wiring diagram, but as I said it's a theory - and I haven't tried it. I'll be really interested in hearing from anyone who has the kahoonies to try it. If it works, you will have something I think is better than DC's lame DRL implementation for only $5.25.

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