Getting Started With Lifting... (2011 Liberty KK)

[randomuser107]

BEFORE WE GET STARTED: I’ll be driving this vehicle across the country (~3000mi) with about 300lbs worth of workout equipment in the car... will these specs be suitable?)

I don’t necessarily want to lift my suspension, but according to everyone here (namely tommudd,) it’ll be the biproduct of me desiring a far less rough ride. I do have other problems regarding this vehicle (purchased @ 80k miles for $3.5k) and will only
list them as perhaps they somehow relate to my issue. By the way, my mechanic had the vehicle up on the lift after some work and there is absolutely no play in the rods/linkers/wheels... so I’m guessing the clunking is just crap suspension. The struts were replaced with shit economy struts by a local Goodyear in 2018 - my guess is they are crap as that particular place preys on scamming the elderly and teens where I live.


Current issues I’d like to see resolved:

- constantly dealing with clunking on turns as well as sporadic clunking over potholes... sometimes deep potholes do nothing and other times I get clunking on tiny bumps not even visible in the road.

- heavy vibration on the highway (kind of mortified to even take it above 50mph with the clunking)

- squeaking when turning the wheel all the way left / right


SUSPENSION INFO:

After researching a bit here, I figured I’d go with...

STRUTS / SHOCKS : Bilstein 4600 set

COILS : 927 front, 731 rear (can someone help me find these? I’m clueless, I see a lot if coils that just say either medium or 1.5” lift lol sorry)

UCA :
JBAs (Do I even need these?)

and... I don’t know what else... I’m pretty much a complete noob to this and will be having a mechanic i’m cool with install the parts for me - if anyone (tom, please? lmao) can offer me
help, it would be greatly appreciated. I just want to buy these parts, stay within my budget and not go f******* insane from the rough ride of this vehicle - other than that I really love the purchase so far!) Can someone give me the okay on compatibility for these parts?

In a 2011 Jeep Liberty (4wd) btw...

EDIT : Wondering if I should go with this setup? https://www.jeepkj.com/threads/orde...my-kk-anything-i-need-to-watch-out-for.75404/

927(front coil)/731(rear coil) with either bilstein 4600(front)/5100(rear) or just 5100 all around? Would this be the most simple setup for my purposes?

Thanks guys!

 

[randomuser107]

Update : Went ahead and ordered the Bilstein 4600 set (2 front/back shock absorbers,) hopefully it was the correct decision... now to just get some help with the coils and deciding whether to buy the UCA’s .

Any LCA’s recommended, or should I not change them if they’re in relatively decent condition?

 

[randomuser107]

Since this is unlikely to see high traffic, I’m figuring I’ll voice some concerns preemptively here in order to have them answered as fast as possible:

- Is it okay for me to do Bilstein 4600 shocks all around? I see some people mentioning a length issue, but personally I don’t want to really “lift” my vehicle more-so just upgrade the ride quality itself.

- What OME springs would I purchase in order to fulfill this goal, while at the same time keeping the jeep “level?” (I find nose-down / squatting unattactive.)

- I’ve read about some brakeline concerns and re-gearing, with my goals in mind, are these issues I necessarily have to be concerned with, or only for more prominent lifts?

- Where exactly do I place hockey pucks? Are they absolutely necessary? What is their purpose?

- Based on a budget of around $2000, is there anything I’m not accounting for? I imagine the labor will be at least $600USD, although not certain.

FINAL AND MOST IMPORTANT QUESTION: Do I really need to f****** lift the jeep in order to feel more comfortable of a ride and to hold that much weight in the vehicle? I did the math and I’m pretty much carrying about 350 LBS in the back, as well as myself and 1 other person (~290lbs.)

if I just replace the crappy quikstruts that the goodyear scammers installed with bilstein 4600 shocks and regular higher-quality front/rear coils (anyone have any suggestions?) will I find more comfort than my current suspension?

I'm relatively lost, I'm guessing that my mechanic is going to have a lot of work to do considering all the parts I'll be attempting to replace and modifications that need to be made. If someone could help clear up the 4600 rears, coils, and anything i'm missing I'd be in your debt.

Thanks to anyone who answers these concerns

 

[tommudd]

Let me read through everything and then start answering your questions and concerns
What part of the country are you at now ?

also depending on lift height you will need longer shocks in the rear

 

[randomuser107]

Let me read through everything and then start answering your questions and concerns
What part of the country are you at now ?

also depending on lift height you will need longer shocks in the rear

Lol, the hero has arrived. Thanks Tom. I'm actually in NYC at the moment. I was sitting here contemplating just buying a lift kit and trying to make it to Ohio and offering to pay you to do the work (if you do that type of thing?) if it's affordable. It'd technically be on the way to my destination lol

I think I have quite a few issues involving the car's front suspension and honestly might want to just gut everything and start fresh, but I also don't think I have a budget over $2000 even with parts so that's probably infeasible lol. I have no clue where the clunking is coming from but it's driving me f****** crazy and has me doubting my trust in the vehicle's safety. My mechanic keeps telling me everything is okay and that he doesn't want me spending money on things I don't need - he could be right, but honestly I feel some really awful clunking noises especially on bends where the wheel is turned, flat ground or downhill - same noises.

Could you possibly offer me a resource on measuring the true height of the vehicle suspension for starters?

Here are the struts I have at the moment according to the repair log the previous owner kept : https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NS_171577R

ALSO - I tried to cancel my order for the 4600's in the afternoon today, and was told that they already shipped out. Regardless of whether I open them or not, there will be a 15% restocking fee which *****. Any safe (#1 priority of course) work-around you can think of? Am I able to use the 4600 shocks with OME springs?

 

[tommudd]

First the 927/731 combo will give you 2.5 inches of lift, and will sit level
Do you want to lift it that high ?
New UCA are not needed if only 2.5 inches but nice to have
Yes you have to have longer shocks in the rear, fronts are stock length

 

[randomuser107]

First the 927/731 combo will give you 2.5 inches of lift, and will sit level
Do you want to lift it that high ?
New UCA are not needed if only 2.5 inches but nice to have
Yes you have to have longer shocks in the rear, fronts are stock length

I think I'd prefer for far less - I'm guessing I need a heavy duty coils for the rear though, yes? If 2.5 is where I'll be as a biproduct of upgraded performance, I'll just have to deal with it maybe, definitely want the leveled out look (so long as it's safe) compared to nose-down or squatting.

I've decided to pick up the frankenlift from boulderbars as well as the JBA UCA's. Do you recommend I grab anything else, and do you know whether the JBA UCA's come with bushings or if I should buy a set from their website along with the uca's?

Lastly... what front/rear coils should I go with based on what they offer? I see light/med/heavy.. I'm guessing heavy coils for the rear - what about the front? Medium? Will I still get a "level" ride with that setup? Just wondering because I don't see any specific coil numbers posted on the page.

 

[tommudd]

First thing, with the Frankenlift you will get closer to 4 inches of lift in front
Not sure where you read about spacers and towing at but no need for spacers
Now onto hockey pucks, where do you think they go ? They have nothing to do with a lift except you need to in the rear for bumpstops
Drill a hole in two of them centered, now drill a hole in the center of the lower spring pad, then bolt them in leaving your stock bumpstops alone
JBA UCAs come with bushings installed
For the rear shocks use Bilstein 24-185660 , I am running a set on the 03 with 2.5 inches of lift
Also add in Teraflex front bumpstops, you will remove the stock ones and install the tearaflex ones
OME 731 rear coils are as heavy as you can get, if you think you need more I can provide a work-around with using other shocks

 

[randomuser107]

First thing, with the Frankenlift you will get closer to 4 inches of lift in front
Not sure where you read about spacers and towing at but no need for spacers
Now onto hockey pucks, where do you think they go ? They have nothing to do with a lift except you need to in the rear for bumpstops
Drill a hole in two of them centered, now drill a hole in the center of the lower spring pad, then bolt them in leaving your stock bumpstops alone
JBA UCAs come with bushings installed
For the rear shocks use Bilstein 24-185660 , I am running a set on the 03 with 2.5 inches of lift
Also add in Teraflex front bumpstops, you will remove the stock ones and install the tearaflex ones
OME 731 rear coils are as heavy as you can get, if you think you need more I can provide a work-around with using other shocks

Thanks for addressing a majority of my concerns I'm just wondering how exactly I'd be "bolting" the hockey pucks in (do I need to stack 2 hockey pucks, or single pucks for each rear coil? Does the bolt go in from top to bottom with the nut on the bottom, and the bolt sort of brute forced toward the center (height wise, not width wise) of the puck?

Let's say for simplicity's sake I can convince my mechanic to cut me a deal on labor and install the frankenlift (that way I don't need to explain the hockeypuck stuff to him lmao)

To get a modest (and level) lift from the frankenlift kit (as a biproduct of increased ride quality because I don't actually care about lifting the truck at all), rather than the 4" standard, would I specify that I desire medium duty front and rear shocks when ordering or heavy duty, as well as trying to get 927front/731rear coils for the kit? Would I still require teraflex bumpstops in the front with the OME kit as well? Thanks so much for your help so far.

 

[tommudd]

OH MY, you still need the hockey pucks for rear bumpstops they have NOTHING at all to do with the front lift like when using a frankenlift there is no difference
4 inch standard ??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
YOU NEED
front
2 coil springs
2 shocks
2 teraflex bumpstops
rear
2 coils
2 shocks
bumpstops for both sides ( 2 hockey pucks per side, hole drilled DOWN from top to bottom of each hockey puck, with bolt down through hockey pucks, lower spring perch with nut on bottom

again the frankenlift will give you more lift than what you want, is not easier to install , have no idea what you are talking about part 60091 ??

 

[randomuser107]

OH MY, you still need the hockey pucks for rear bumpstops they have NOTHING at all to do with the front lift like when using a frankenlift there is no difference
4 inch standard ??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
YOU NEED
front
2 coil springs
2 shocks
2 teraflex bumpstops
rear
2 coils
2 shocks
bumpstops for both sides ( 2 hockey pucks per side, hole drilled DOWN from top to bottom of each hockey puck, with bolt down through hockey pucks, lower spring perch with nut on bottom

again the frankenlift will give you more lift than what you want, is not easier to install , have no idea what you are talking about part 60091 ??

Lol sorry that must have been left over from other stuff I edited out - I figured I was asking too many questions at once and deleted a lot of stuff. It was referring the the OME rear shocks or something but let's forget about that. The "4 inch standard" thing was in regards to the frankenlift giving ~4" of lift by default as well.

What I'm confused about is the hockey pucks situation - this is taken directly from the page regarding the frankenlift:

"(NOTE: Rear extended bump stops are not needed with Sport Series Shocks included in this kit.)
This kit is also available with coil springs that are LIGHT Duty for those who want a softer spring."

So you're saying that regardless of whether I buy the "Sports Series Shocks(OME)" or not, I will have to install the hockey pucks anyway? Essentially, the EXTENDED bump stops mentioned in the quote above just means more hockey pucks stacked up than you’d typically imagine using? If rear bump stops absolutely must be installed regardless of what kit I use, then it definitely makes sense to go for alternatives to the OME shocks simply based on price alone, as you have done with your jeep and the bilstein shocks (which of course you’ve tried to help me understand multiple times in this thread and I definitely appreciate)

As for ride height of the frankenlift in particular, it mentions some info in that same quote block about the kit being available with lighter-duty springs, and if I'm not mistaken from reading through your old posts, the springs themselves are what cause the lift in general, yes?

I guess as a final question and last resort, let’s say that the price or work is too complicated for me and I settle for stock height suspension parts, could you recommend me any specific higher quality coils / struts for the front end over the coils / struts I currently have installed?

Sorry If I'm confusing you, I just want to see the Liberty running well and so I'm forced to take in a lot of information at once, I've never owned anything other than a shitbox sedan before this vehicle. Just trying to take the path of least resistance where it’s sensible. Thanks for your help and patience!

 

[tommudd]

There are no other " stock type " springs that are heavier duty than the OMEs
The hockey pucks for the rear are cheap insurance to add. Some shocks do not need them but again cheap insurance due to over compressing your shocks and blowing one or both out
The same amount of work is needed no matter if installing stock suspension or say OME
well minus the bumpstops which are needed
For every inch of lift, you need an inch of bumpstops in most cases, and that is the same no matter what brand of 4x4 you lift
Yes you can go lighter duty on OME springs, if you look at my sig line you will see I have lighter duty on my 05 due to only lifting it a small amout so my 88 year old Mother can still get in easy for Dr trips etc
BUT you wanted the option of carrying extra weight so assumed you did not want to go that route
Hockey pucks have been used for years as bumpstops since (1) they are cheap ) (2) they are strong and easy to use (3 ) they are one inch thick so you can custom build what height you need
I've been using them for 20-25 years at least , just seen one of the XJs I used to own the other day
sold it back in 1996 and hockey pucks are still working LOL
Wish I could say the same for the body, very sad, latest owner not taking care of it at all

 

[randomuser107]

There are no other " stock type " springs that are heavier duty than the OMEs
The hockey pucks for the rear are cheap insurance to add. Some shocks do not need them but again cheap insurance due to over compressing your shocks and blowing one or both out
The same amount of work is needed no matter if installing stock suspension or say OME
well minus the bumpstops which are needed
For every inch of lift, you need an inch of bumpstops in most cases, and that is the same no matter what brand of 4x4 you lift
Yes you can go lighter duty on OME springs, if you look at my sig line you will see I have lighter duty on my 05 due to only lifting it a small amout so my 88 year old Mother can still get in easy for Dr trips etc
BUT you wanted the option of carrying extra weight so assumed you did not want to go that route
Hockey pucks have been used for years as bumpstops since (1) they are cheap ) (2) they are strong and easy to use (3 ) they are one inch thick so you can custom build what height you need
I've been using them for 20-25 years at least , just seen one of the XJs I used to own the other day
sold it back in 1996 and hockey pucks are still working LOL
Wish I could say the same for the body, very sad, latest owner not taking care of it at all

Sad stuff indeed regarding the jeep you sold, always ***** to see someone neglecting something you kept immaculate .

Are there any specific brand of hockey pucks you recommend? Would 2 stacked on left/right of the rear be enough or would I need 3 since it's a 2.5" lift?

- Found these... (the exact SKU / Part number you recommended, despite being advertised for another vehicle they will work, correct?)

- Would these TeraFlex front lower bumpstops be sufficient or do i need to change the upper front area as well? Any videos or resources you have on this stuff by chance? If you could list some specific parts it'd be greatly appreciated, seems there's a variety of bumpstops and related products out there from teraflex. I went with the 927/731 coil combo if that helps at all!

When torquing the vehicle’s suspension, since it has to be under load of the vehicle at “ride height” how do you recommend going about it? Hydraulic jack pressing under the specific wheel I’m working on to load the suspension?

Lastly... where do you specifically put your jack and jack stands when lifting the vehicle? i downloaded a little diagram of where the jacks should go but couldn't find anything for jack stands in particular (although i’m guessing the same spots) and would prefer to be absolutely safe rather than make a gamble with my life / limbs

LIST OF PARTS I'VE ORDERED SO FAR:

OME 927
OME 731
JBA UCA's

So I still just need to purchase the appropriate shocks and bumpstops and I guess I'm good to go on beginning the installation .

 

[tommudd]

shocks work , yes
but why in the world would you spend over 50 bucks on bumpstops when for 4-5 bucks you can buy hockey pucks ??
as I mentioned before, Teraflex front bumpstops in place of the original ones
when tightening , full weight of vehicle on the ground, then torque

and hockey pucks are hockey pucks, I buy 25-30 at a time , but most sporting good stores sell then by singles

 

[randomuser107]

shocks work , yes
but why in the world would you spend over 50 bucks on bumpstops when for 4-5 bucks you can buy hockey pucks ??
as I mentioned before, Teraflex front bumpstops in place of the original ones
when tightening , full weight of vehicle on the ground, then torque

and hockey pucks are hockey pucks, I buy 25-30 at a time , but most sporting good stores sell then by singles

Are the front bump-stops the semi-circle looking rubber things that are intended to hit into the upper control arm on impact?

Let's say I want to purchase a manufactured bump stop because I'm stupid and like the false security of such a thing. Would these suffice? Are they only for the upper rear part of the bump stop? I still need lower rear bump stops as well correct?

Are these able to fit in the KK? (says meant for KJ) anything else I’d need regarding the front suspension bump stops?

Also, these are compatible with the rear shocks recommended, yes?

 

[Liaztraht]

My KK is the one linked in OP. I would say it is definitely worth every penny. Doing the work myself, all parts including tires and wheels were about $2,100. Tire install/balance was $104, and alignment $50. That's also with the OME 90009/60069 shocks. You would save a bit with the Bilstein shocks of course. And more with stock wheels/tires.

It came out stiffer than stock. Still have some minor creaks and pops randomly, but much less so than the stock suspension. It definitely rides better, feels better, and looks better.

I feel better behind the wheel, and now I get random people complimenting it/asking about it because it "looks like a real Jeep" now. Haven't gone too far off-road yet (did a good bit stock), but when doing the Wrangler thing of parking on stuff, the flex is nice.

 

[randomuser107]

My KK is the one linked in OP. I would say it is definitely worth every penny. Doing the work myself, all parts including tires and wheels were about $2,100. Tire install/balance was $104, and alignment $50. That's also with the OME 90009/60069 shocks. You would save a bit with the Bilstein shocks of course. And more with stock wheels/tires.

It came out stiffer than stock. Still have some minor creaks and pops randomly, but much less so than the stock suspension. It definitely rides better, feels better, and looks better.

I feel better behind the wheel, and now I get random people complimenting it/asking about it because it "looks like a real Jeep" now. Haven't gone too far off-road yet (did a good bit stock), but when doing the Wrangler thing of parking on stuff, the flex is nice.

Thanks so much for the insight considering that's your build! I definitely am looking for a similar peace of mind regarding the suspension in general. Did you wind up using specifically manufactured bumpstops or the hockey pucks for yours?

 

[Liaztraht]

Thanks so much for the insight considering that's your build! I definitely am looking for a similar peace of mind regarding the suspension in general. Did you wind up using specifically manufactured bumpstops or the hockey pucks for yours?

I didn't install any bump stops. Apparently, per OME, with their springs/shocks they aren't required, but I will get back in there and add hockey pucks eventually as peace of mind. I didn't finish my lift until 1 am and skipped it due to being fed up at the time. I also haven't gotten around to pounding my pinch welds, and have a little rub at full lock.

Easy to get fed up when you break your spring compressor, and drop a fully assembled coilover on your fingers

 

[tommudd]

Are the front bump-stops the semi-circle looking rubber things that are intended to hit into the upper control arm on impact?

Let's say I want to purchase a manufactured bump stop because I'm stupid and like the false security of such a thing. Would these suffice? Are they only for the upper rear part of the bump stop? I still need lower rear bump stops as well correct?

Are these able to fit in the KK? (says meant for KJ) anything else I’d need regarding the front suspension bump stops?

Also, these are compatible with the rear shocks recommended, yes?

NO on the front shocks you have linked to, get regular shocks for the KK either Bilstein or OME

 

[tommudd]

My KK is the one linked in OP. I would say it is definitely worth every penny. Doing the work myself, all parts including tires and wheels were about $2,100. Tire install/balance was $104, and alignment $50. That's also with the OME 90009/60069 shocks. You would save a bit with the Bilstein shocks of course. And more with stock wheels/tires.

It came out stiffer than stock. Still have some minor creaks and pops randomly, but much less so than the stock suspension. It definitely rides better, feels better, and looks better.

I feel better behind the wheel, and now I get random people complimenting it/asking about it because it "looks like a real Jeep" now. Haven't gone too far off-road yet (did a good bit stock), but when doing the Wrangler thing of parking on stuff, the flex is nice.

WRONG REAR SHOCKs
132Ls are for a lifted KJ/KK from OME
you are running stock length shocks