How-To for changing rear U-joint?

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Hedsic

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Like the title says, Is there a how to on changing the rear U-Joint? I tried searching with no luck. The intermittent vibration when accelerating is annoying so I'm hoping replacing that will fix it. Is changing it out pretty simple? Any special tools needed it just the basic tools? (I'm still recovering from my divorce where I lost most if my tools).

Hoping to do this tomorrow but I'm not sure where to really start since I have never changed a Ujoint and don't know what to do.


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Luke

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You can use a C clamp and sockets ... but I prefer the u-joint/ball joint press kit, you can usually borrow them for free at your local parts store. A vice is handy.

Pretty simple if not dainty work at times.

Remove the c clips (snap rings) (4)... press out one side ... remove cap and joint.... etc. Repeat.

Putting the new ones in just requires careful placement of the caps and needle bearings and nice straight smooth insertion. <insert jokes here>

:waytogo:
 

Cardhu

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make sure you mark the orientation it is currently in and put it back the same way so it stays "balanced", atleast as good as it was before your joints took a crap.

Getting out the stock joints does require a bit of omph. Having the balljoint service kit with the c clamp its handy to have. That and a couple of the right size sockets to push out the caps.

Also use one when pushing in the first of each pair of caps with a socket over the cross to keep them aligned in the yoke.
cardhu-albums-other-repairs-picture3157-center-socket-else-cap-goes-squish.jpg
 

dude1116

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I used sockets and a BFH. Not the best way to do it but it was effective after lots of cursing...

Anyway the way I did it was this:

1) Pull the driveshaft. Draw a line from the flange to the shaft to ensure balance. Prop it up on a VERY hard surface (a rock or a metal bench).

2) Take off the clips. I used needle nose pliers and a flathead and LOTS of WD40. I had to scrape where the clip meets the flange to get them to stop sticking together.

3) Use a socket JUST small enough to fit inside the hole and JUST big enough so that it covers the whole perimeter of the U joint cap.

4) Hit the socket. A lot.

5) Curse

6) Hit the socket harder

7) Curse some more

8) Get a beverage of choice.

9) Hit it MORE

10) When the cap on the OTHER SIDE is almost out, use a vice or some pliers to twist it off. Be careful not to damage the flange by pushing the joint too far through.

Essentially I did this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jpME2VD1oA

It's a little bit barbaric, but it worked.

JUST DON'T SCREW UP THE NEEDLE BEARINGS. I screwed it up TWICE. And had to buy a total of 3 new joints (i had enough good caps with good needle bearings to salvage one of the screwed up ones)
 
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tjkj2002

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I used sockets and a BFH. Not the best way to do it but it was effective after lots of cursing...

Anyway the way I did it was this:

1) Pull the driveshaft. Draw a line from the flange to the shaft to ensure balance. Prop it up on a VERY hard surface (a rock or a metal bench).

2) Take off the clips. I used needle nose pliers and a flathead and LOTS of WD40. I had to scrape where the clip meets the flange to get them to stop sticking together.

3) Use a socket JUST small enough to fit inside the hole and JUST big enough so that it covers the whole perimeter of the U joint cap.

4) Hit the socket. A lot.

5) Curse

6) Hit the socket harder

7) Curse some more

8) Get a beverage of choice.

9) Hit it MORE

10) When the cap on the OTHER SIDE is almost out, use a vice or some pliers to twist it off. Be careful not to damage the flange by pushing the joint too far through.

Essentially I did this: Change a U-Joint with a Hammer - YouTube

It's a little bit barbaric, but it worked.

JUST DON'T SCREW UP THE NEEDLE BEARINGS. I screwed it up TWICE. And had to buy a total of 3 new joints (i had enough good caps with good needle bearings to salvage one of the screwed up ones)
You think normal u-joints are fun you should try CTM axle u-joints.The only plus is no needle bearings but your trying to put 50lbs of crap in a 5lbs package.The full circle clips you have to use make it even more difficult.
 

CactusJacked

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Helpful video, for those who have never done it before. To avoid getting debris on the bearing surfaces, I leave the caps on the uninstalled sides in place, and wrap them together with tape until the u-joint is ready to get attached to the yoke. I also prefer to use a vise to press the new caps in, to prevent any chance of popping a needle out of place.
 
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dude1116

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Helpful video, for those who have never done it before. To avoid getting debris on the bearing surfaces, I leave the caps on the uninstalled sides in place, and wrap them together with tape until the u-joint is ready to get attached to the yoke. I also prefer to use a vise to press the new caps in, to prevent any chance of popping a needle out of place.

I'd say a vice or C-clamp would be VERY handy indeed, as that's how I screwed up a whole joint.
 

LibertyFever

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I have a 95 YJ with a 4" lift without a SYE so I've gotten pretty good at replacing my rear u-joint.
But I've never paid any attention as to it's position. Should I have been concerned?
Will it cause vibrations? To be honest my YJ has so many vibrations I haven't noticed a new one.


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HoosierJeeper

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Getting ready to do this soon...found a good Youtube vid on it. A few questions though:
1. I bought a non greaseable Moog unit, what grease do I use (would the same that I use for the ball joints work?) and do I just fill it up with grease?
2. I actually think that was my only question. :D
 

dude1116

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Getting ready to do this soon...found a good Youtube vid on it. A few questions though:
1. I bought a non greaseable Moog unit, what grease do I use (would the same that I use for the ball joints work?) and do I just fill it up with grease?
2. I actually think that was my only question. :D

Should come greased! No need for more!! :) I wouldn't see how the needle bearings would stay in the cap without it.
 

HoosierJeeper

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Cool, thanks! How does the t case end of the rear drive shaft come out? I assume I take the diff end out first, right?
 

Snail Farmer

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Disconnect the diff end first (4 bolts), you might need a hammer to knock it loose once the bolts are out, then slide the driveshaft straight rearward. The output shaft coming out of the t case is splined and the driveshaft just slides off. There is a clamp on the boot at the t case end you'll want to take off before you remove the driveshaft though.
 

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