Installing a Bazooka tube

[Frommy]

Hey guys,

I have a couple of Bazooka tubes laying around (I don't even know if they work) and I wanted to install one. I'm quite the beginner when it comes to car audio. I was able to find a manual online to install it but I'm still a little hesitant.

I'm sure a couple of you have installed Bazooka tubes in your Libbys and I was wondering if I could get some pointers. There are apparent three options to choose from:

Option One:
For the most versatility the Remote Turn On Wire should be connected
to the source unit's "Accessory", "Auto-Antenna" or "Remote"
lead -- any of which will supply 12 Volts positive when the source is
turned on. When you are using this configuration, the Quick
Disconnect YELLOW On/Off Jumper Loop MUST be disconnected
from the wiring harness.

Option Two:
If the source does not have an Auto-Antenna lead (or if the Auto-
Antenna goes down during tape operation),you can connect the
Amplified Bazookas' Remote Turn On Wire to an accessory or ignition
point at the vehicle fuse block. In this configuration, the
Amplified Bazooka will be on whenever the ignition is on. This
method may allow noise or turn-on-and-off transients to become
amplified when the source unit is not in use. When you are using
this Option, the Quick Disconnect YELLOW On/Off Jumper Loop
MUST be disconnected from the wiring harness.

Option Three:
The Amplified Bazooka has a built -in Auto Turn-On Feature. If
you choose to use this feature, the Amplified Bazooka will turn on
automatically whenever there is music present at the inputs (high
level or low level input). Please take notice of the Quick Disconnect
Yellow On/Off Jumper Loop located on the Amplified Bazooka
wiring harness. SAS ships the Amplified Bazooka with this Jumper
Loop plugged into the wiring harness. When the JUMPER LOOP
plugged in, the Auto Turn-On Option is in the ON position and the
Amplified Bazooka will turn on automatically when it senses any
music at the inputs. The ORANGE wire should not be connected
to anything if this feature is being used. Be sure to insulate the
end of the ORANGE wire so that it will not short to ground, as this
may damage the Amplified Bazooka.

Which one did you use? Of the multiple wires coming off the Bazooka harness what do I need to hook to the Factory headunit? Also what's the easiest way to run the power wire from the battery to the tube in the trunk?

 

[Lancer]

You might want to post this in the Electronics forum down the page? There is a fair bit in there about the stereo system in the KJ.

 

[Powerslave]

I have two tube subs, check my photos in my album.

I used POWER from the Ignition, from the radio harness, and the radio's remote wire to turn the AMP on that I mounted across the tubes.

I am using Bell drop/burial cable as speaker and power leads. One cable for the rear L/R signals, and one for power, remote and ground (one wire left over in this cable). Each cable has four wires, the insulation is THICK and sturdy, and will out-last the vehicle.

 

[Frommy]

So after reading more into it, correct me if I'm wrong.

I have the powered bazooka in the trunk. It has a pigtail coming out with multiple wires (http://www.sasbazooka.com/tech/wiring-diagrams/ELA). I need to run the power wire (red) to the battery through the firewall. I need to connect the ground (black) to something metal in the trunk (suggestions?). As far as hooking it to my system, after googling for hours, I found the easiest and cheapest way to hook it up is through the rear speaker outputs (correct me if I'm wrong). So I'm assuming I would take out the headunit, find the rear speaker outputs on the wiring harness, splice the hi-level wires from the bazooka tube (green/grey) to the rear speaker outputs, and viola!

The only confusing part is the splicing. Is this an example of a "tap" splice? By this I mean for the speaker output coming from the headunit, I would need to have one wire going to the rear speaker and one wire going to the bazooka tube from the SAME ONE connection. If I didn't do it this way, how would the rear speakers get sound???

I really appreciate the feedback. It's kind of embarrasing being an IT guy and not knowing how to hook-up a powered subwoofer. I've just never messed with car audio before.

 

[Powerslave]

You can use a simple TAP splice, like this:

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I tapped into the REAR leads as well.

If you are going to run a power wire up through the firewall, then you may as well run your ground up there too. As I said, I used ALL the wiring from the radio compartment. I spliced into the ignition power wire for the AMP, and grounded it in there to, to the harness ground wire. My amp is not all that powerful, and the tube speakers I got are not high wattage ones, but work well.

Get the REMOTE sense wire from the radio, if not, hook up a switch and do it manually.

Wire it however you want, as long as it works...

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[Frommy]

Get the REMOTE sense wire from the radio, if not, hook up a switch and do it manually.

What color is the remote wire? I hooked up the Bazooka! Right now it is set on Auto-On. I'm afraid it may kill the battery though.

 

[Powerslave]

Remote wires are usually blue on an aftermarket radio and devices. If you have a STOCK radio, you will need to wire a remote, just a power switch. My head unit, I am using the Power Antenna wire, that works just as well as the remote. You can use the ignition power, so the thing is only on when the key is in RUN or ACCY.

 

[JeepJeepster]

My stock HU had a remote power wire for the amps in the doors. No need to add switches and all that..

 

[Powerslave]

My stock HU had a remote power wire for the amps in the doors. No need to add switches and all that..

The INFINITY premiums have the AMPS in the speakers. This person has not said what system he HAS. If he does not have stock AMPS, then he has no remote wire to use. HE can always use the ignition ON wire, so it's on when the car is on...

 

[hyde]

Just check if you have premium or not first. I would also feel more comfortable tapping into something like HU wiring for switched power instead of ignition wire in the steering block.