Manual Transmission oil replace questions

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KJ604

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Do the skid plates need to come off? I have Mopar skids.

Gear oil? And a specific amount or fill it to the fill holes?

Been having a tough time getting into gear for some reason. Feels like I have to almost push the clutch through the floor. Don't know if this will help but thought it might.
 
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HoosierJeeper

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Probably the trans skid will and wait for sota to chime in. He's the guru on the row it yourself KJs.

Change the title to manual trans to bait him :D
 

LibertyTC

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If you have a trans skid ya it has to come off.
The 2005 owners manual has some useful information, just had a look at it.
It describes not less than 3/16th below bottom of fill hole.
Is there a cable adjustment?
Maybe wrong lubricant was used, or water got in somehow, or the friction modifiers have now broken down?
Fluid spec; Manual Transmission Lubricant or equivalent (meeting the requirements
of DaimlerChrysler Material Standard MS-9224)
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Owners manual did not list the capacity of the NSG370.
I would want to try new lubricant before thinking throw out or internal issues.
 
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CzarKJ

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Can't help ya with the skids but manual transmissions are easy for the change. Just make sure you use the right stuff. And ALWAYS take out the fill before the drain!!!
 

adamkrz

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2qt's syncromesh - I had trouble shifting - it was caused because of a leaking slave cylinder. On my 2004 it has a 17mm allen on both the fill and drain, also has a magnetic plug on the drain plug..
 

ThatsMrGimp2U

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Drivers side kinda close to the bell housing. I switched to amsoil synchromesh a year ago and it made my trans feel damn near brand new. Buttery smooth now in comparison.
 

KJ604

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this weekend is not supposed to be nice but im going to go ahead and change the fluid anyways when I get a chance. if the problem persists i will look towards the slave cylinder. would the skid plate have to be removed even just to check the level then?
 

KJ604

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Ok so update on this issue. Found an interesting solution. Pump the clutch pedal. If I pump it 3 times it goes back to being super smooth in all gears. Have to pump it for each individual shift though. What does this mean?
 

Billwill

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The slave cylinder, master cylinder, tubing and reservoir come as a unit...prefilled with fluid.

At least this is how the early models like mine came...may have changed on new models.

Mine has no nipple on the slave cylinder to be able to bleed the system.
The reservoir is on the firewall near to the clutch pedal under the hood....you can top up the fluid level there.

I replaced my fluid by sucking the reservoir dry with a large syringe such as a Turkey Baster....topped up with fluid.....ran for a few days and repeated the process until the fluid was nearly clear...was brown to start out with!
 

KJ604

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Ok thanks guys. I will do my research as well, I've just been busy this week. Bought a little trailer and been using it and buttoning up a few small details on it so haven't had time for much else. Just wanted to hear from anyone who has had experience with this issue.

I'm kinda wondering if there is air in the system. I know I got a bit of air in the brakes because of not paying attention to what I'm doing. Tried to get it out but pretty sure I didn't get all of it. Could it have made it into the slave somehow?
 
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KJ604

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ah ok. on my volvo they are connected. and the slave cylinder is inside the clutch. so when the slave goes bad brake fluid pours all over the clutch and cooks that too.
 

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