new lift now i hear clunk noise

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jfortier777

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Well the first mistake would be that you didn't do enough research before your purchase.

The large majority of us oppose spacer lifts higher than 2.5", as they tend to cause the CV to bind.

The clunk you are hearing could be:

CV binding
Strut bottoming out
Upper ball joint contact

But it could also be other things..

Give us some more info about your jeep

Model (sport, renegade, limited)
Year
Tires
Other modifications
Mileage
 

MoladoGuy

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Where do you hear this clunk noise coming from and does it do this continuously while driving or just when rolling over small bumps? Try parking the Jeep and making the front end bounce by pushing up and down on the front. See if you can hear the noise.

Just like MIAH said, the clunk could be the force against your CV joints and/or the contact that is made from your upper control arm (ball joint area) against your springs. I would seriously consider removing that lift and go with a full suspension lift. Your stock shocks/springs and parts will quickly deteriorate. It would be safer to.

Let us know where you pinpoint the clunk noise and also post pics if you can!
 

Eddo

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I'm willing to bet it is upper ball joint contact. I doubt its the CVs. That can handle way more angles than most people thing. Just look at the angle they are at when you turn and it doesn't clunk then.

Jack up your Jeep so that the front wheels suspension unloads and see if you have this happening.
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See this thread for some more info
http://www.lostkjs.com/forum/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=13637&highlight=bumpstops
 

opeykent

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liberty Renegade
2004
stock tires
no mechanical mods all cosmetic
42118

the sound seems to come from each wheel-well. it only clunks when i go over bumps or dips. if i turn sometimes it makes the exact sound. i have not had a re-elinement either b/c of the noise i thought i might be removing it. i have not driven it over a mile with the lift on and all driving was slow. Will billet lift take it back?
thanks for all you guys help
Im Chris but people call me Opey

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I HAVE TONS OF GREAT OTHER JEEP JAMBOREE PICS OF THE "OPEY 1" OFF ROAD'N
 

opeykent

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im not 100% but i think the rear could be the v shaped bar that connects to middle of the axal. where it connects to the frame might be bottoming out. i can't afford that control arm. does every lift for a liberty require that? what if i bought a diffrent lift? i sent Billet lift a nasty e-mail earlier demanding a refund.
 

MoladoGuy

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If you get your $$$ back then thats $140 towards a good full suspension lift like a BDS lift, Rusty Lift, etc... Those replace the front struts and springs/rear shocks and springs and shouldn't cost more than $450 bucks. Then you will be a lot safer. If you wanna spend some extra $$$ on top of that you can go with a Frankenlift (best way to go IMHO).

If you can't afford going that route just save your money until you can get it one of the full suspension lifts. You will be very happy with doing it that way.
 

JeepJeepster

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If that boot is torn, be sure to keep some grease in it to help save the balljoint.. Check it often for any play and you will need to replace them as needed. That is not a part to play around with. If it fails, bad things can happen..

Anyway, this does not happen with every lift. Its always best to research things like this before buying them..

Im very sorry you were ripped off by those guys. Thats why jeepkj.com and lostkjs.com are great websites.. We help people as best we can. O:)
 

bohica-kj

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I've had a Daystar 2.5'' spacer lift on my KJ for over a year now and I'm pretty happy with it. Although, the first 3 month it was on, I also had a banging sound coming from the rear end when I'd go a little too fast over a speed bump or over anything that extended my rear suspension. Turns out, it was the OEM shock "topping-out". Got the Rancho 17004's and it completely fixed the problem.

Tony
 

opeykent

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i think everybody would like to know i called them and talked to the owner. i explained that i was not happy at all.

"Seller's product is a major hazard and endangers the lives of occupants in a motor vehicle. Product is easily capable of disconnecting wheel from vehicle while in motion. Faulty design and product NEED to be REMOVED from manufacturing process. Written disclaimer is not enough to prevent lawsuit and may violate multiple laws. I am requesting full refund from seller. If any trouble arises between seller and I a civil suit will follow and compensation will be demanded for all broken personal property and time. Thank you. -Christopher Kent- (phone number)"

He called me last night around 9:00 and is giving me a full refund. BUT he said this has NEVER come up and its the first time this problem has been brought to his attention. I need some people who have had problems with them to send me any complaints that were sent to this manufacturer. I would like this company to make this product safer before selling it. he also said they might have sent me the wrong lift aybe a 4" or something. thanks for you guys help.
 

opeykent

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thats why i was hopeing somebody would have some sort of proof or history that they have contacted him with the same problem. the other lifts that have been recommended, how do they lift the front? or do they just not lift it so high.
 

JeepJeepster

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opeykent said:
thats why i was hopeing somebody would have some sort of proof or history that they have contacted him with the same problem. the other lifts that have been recommended, how do they lift the front? or do they just not lift it so high.

They lift it with springs. Your lift lifted it by a spacer below the spring and the shock.. O:)

Other spacer lifts go below the spring but are still contained in the coil-over.
 
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