P0700 Code

[TwoBobsKJ]

So my wife is driving our '03 Libby to work (3.7L, 42RLE, N242 case, 100k miles) and the check engine light comes on. I check the code later that day using the key 3x on/off method and come up with the 0700 code. Took it to the local ****** shop and he tells me the torque converter isn't locking up. "Could be minor, could be time for a rebuild..."

Anyway, I have him drop the pan to do a full fluid flush and filter replacement (we bought the Libby in November and I have no idea when/if the ****** fluid has been changed) and he shows me the shavings in the bottom of the pan - "Yep, gonna need a rebuild soon. It may work for a while but no way that converter is gonna lock up or the light going off."

Driving home from the shop the CE light is still on and no change in the way it's driving, then...

At 45mph I feel a little bump, the CE light goes off and all of a sudden it's driving very smoothly - no 'lugging' or vibrations, downshifts are tighter, upshifts are more crisp. So for the last month or so it has driven fine, I've changed the front and rear diff oil and the transfer case fluid and all seems right with the world.

Question: What should I look out for? Is the 42RLE good for a few more miles? Will my wife get stuck at some intersection with no warning thanks to the ******? Are there any other possibilities for issues from the 0700 code?

TIA for your replies...

Bob

 

[JeepKj03]

sounds like you had a sticking TCC vaule, the flush and new filter helped. Shavings are normal due to wear. Chucks and pieces of parts in the pan are a sign its time for a rebuild.

 

[LibertyTC]

Bob, How many miles did you have on since the last ****** fluid change?

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

Bob, How many miles did you have on since the last ****** fluid change?

Unfortunately I don't know the last ****** fluid/filter change - we bought the Libby this past November and have since put on about 3000 miles. She was at 99,500 when I did the flush & filter and she's right at 100K now.

To add more detail to my first post...The shavings in the bottom of the pan looked - to me - like normal wear. VERY small brass & steel particles - no chunks or "pieces parts" like it was grenading itself.

Since the flush & filter change the ****** shifts better with one exception: When turning corners at slow speed or other instances where I slow down but don't stop it won't downshift like I think it should. In other words, if I was shifting a manual I'd drop down to 2nd gear then begin accelerating again. The 42RLE seems to stay in 3rd unless I press the throttle enough to kick it down to 2nd. It kinda "lugs" until it downshifts.

Should I disconnect the battery then reconnect it to see of the ****** "brain" attempts to relearn shiftpoints, etc?

Thanks for the replies guys!

Bob

 

[LibertyTC]

The 42RLE is not the brightest transmission on the block, when it comes to shifting.
They are also not the best when cold, so I run mine with overdrive off for the first 15 minutes, and anytime a hill is involved.
Mine at 35K miles, also had carbon type filings, (very minimal) had dealer service it.
Many of these transmissions get excellent service life (175k +miles) without any major problems (expect delays in shifting sometimes seems normal comment in here, but I blame the torque converter)
Run the Jeep for 20 minutes at highways speed and then in Neutral, check the fluid level. They seem to be sensitive to fluid levels.
In helping mine to shift I have used Lubgard Red http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-112/LUBEGARD+Automatic+Transmission+Fluid+Protectant and it seems to have help the shifts smoothness, and not as much delay anymore.
I like not doing a re-learn as it leaves the current shift points to see if I can make it better as above.....then do a re-learn by disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes, and then starting it up not moving, and go from park one at a time, all the way down to to first and back up a few times then drive it normally.
Try the Lubegard..you may be pleasantly surprised, but only add it if you got room. Try to keep it at the full line, not over or under is what is recommended.
I like to do a complete service on the ****** every 35-45k miles aprox, and just drop the pan fluid in-between every 22k/inspect.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

...I like not doing a re-learn as it leaves the current shift points to see if I can make it better as above.....then do a re-learn by disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes, and then starting it up not moving, and go from park one at a time, all the way down to to first and back up a few times then drive it normally...

So LibertyTC, are you saying above that I should NOT do a relearn right now, only after I add the LubeGard Red? Or should I try the relearn now and see if it improves things?

After reading the LubeGard info it hit a chord with me...the torque converter "chatter" is what I called lugging in my earlier post. If the additive will eliminate or reduce that while helping with shift points that would be great stuff. My concerns over the ****** life are diminished based on your comments and those from others who agree with you that the fluid/filter change 'unstuck' the TCC valve and brought things back into proper operation.

What a great resource you all are! arty52:

Bob

 

[LibertyTC]

Ya in other words, if you leave it without the re-learn you will/ should be able to tell if it got better by the additive. Then do the re-learn after you know what up.
Then you can tell if the re-learn helped in any additional way.
Note if done at the dealer, flush etc, they should have re-programmed TCM for new fluid, and re-learn would be already be in effect.