Problem, "No Fuse" error message

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Mike Brierton

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Hello, I am new to this form. I bought my 2011 Jeep Liberty last year with minimal problems, a little over a week ago and my parents got me a new stereo, backup camera and wiring harness for the stereo (it was my birthday). I spent two days (half days) pulling my paneling apart to hide all the wiring and wiring everything up. Well basically I got her all back together and working, then the next morning when I was about to head to school I turned my key and... nothing. My dash board lit up and all the beeping noises from having my door opened worked but she wouldn't turn over so I dont think the battery is dead. I am also receiving a code on my odometer that says "no fuse", I know that code refers to the J13 fuse that dealers pull but I pulled that fuse and cleaned it but to no avail. Is their anything else I should check or do before getting a mechanic?

Thank you in advanced for any help!

Mike
 

LibertyTC

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Welcome to the forums.
Jeep does not sound happy with wiring someplace, I wonder if you have a short?
Did you have the proper connectors or how did you wire this in?
You could use a test light at J13 and and see if both terminals on top have power...
or Find & install a new IOD- Ignition off Draw- J13 fuse would probably be your best bet, make sure it is seated correctly.

With a VOM-volt meter, what is your current battery voltage reading?
 

sleazy rider

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I'm with him^. Check the battery voltage with a meter. It takes nearly no voltage to turn on the lights and ring the dinger, but a whole lot more to start the engine.

Did you use an aftermarket harness adapter to install the stereo or did you cut the plug off and wire direct? Were there any other wires needing connection to 12v?
 

Mike Brierton

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Welcome to the forums.
Jeep does not sound happy with wiring someplace, I wonder if you have a short?
Did you have the proper connectors or how did you wire this in?
You could use a test light at J13 and and see if both terminals on top have power...
or Find & install a new IOD- Ignition off Draw- J13 fuse would probably be your best bet, make sure it is seated correctly.

With a VOM-volt meter, what is your current battery voltage reading?

I checked the battery voltage and it came back as 95% when the battery terminals were connected to the battery but when I pulled the terminals off and just connected the voltage tester to the battery it was at 3%, this battery is also only a little under a year old, I replaced it right after I got my Liberty. So I put my trickle charger on her for about 45 minutes, but while I was doing that I saw another form where the guy recommended to clamp the two battery terminals together as a way to completely reset the computer in the car. I also did this and drained all of the juice out of her and let the trickle charger slowly fill the battery up to about 30%. I then reconnected the battery and I noticed my dome light went back on. She started right back up and I let her idle for a few minutes just to make sure everything worked. The strange thing was when nothing else worked i her the horn was working, but it was very long, dull and quiet and the only way to stop it was by disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery.

Once again thank you for all of your help and i'm glad that I have something to drive to school today!

Mike
 

Mike Brierton

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I'm with him^. Check the battery voltage with a meter. It takes nearly no voltage to turn on the lights and ring the dinger, but a whole lot more to start the engine.

Did you use an aftermarket harness adapter to install the stereo or did you cut the plug off and wire direct? Were there any other wires needing connection to 12v?

I did use a wiring harness since I didn't want to risk anything, but after I pulled my new stereo out I noticed I forgot to tape off one of the wires that I wasent using. Now this is a long shot but could that single wire have drained my battery over night or is their a deeper issue that I need to look for?

Thank You,
Mike
 

sleazy rider

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Depends on what the wire was for. Odds are, you ran the battery down playing with the stereo or by unhappy coincidence, the battery simply failed.

Charge the battery all the way up, put the terminals back on and see if there’s a parasitic draw with your multimeter. If there is, the battery will show a slow but steady drop.
 

Mike Brierton

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Depends on what the wire was for. Odds are, you ran the battery down playing with the stereo or by unhappy coincidence, the battery simply failed.

Charge the battery all the way up, put the terminals back on and see if there’s a parasitic draw with your multimeter. If there is, the battery will show a slow but steady drop.

I just tried to start my Liberty up again today and all the dome lights worked and the dash lit up but the engine never started. I attached my trickle charger and that said the battery was at 95% so I will charge it up and see if there is any draw using a multimeter. Note, yesterday she started up with the old radio then I changed the radio to my new one and she still started up. Today I just tried with the new one. I dont know if that will make any difference.

Please let me know if there is anything else you can think of!

Mike
 

LibertyTC

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^ As mentioned get that battery back up to 100 % on the charger, & then get the battery load tested !
If there is noticeable parasitic drain on volt meter, you will have to find which circuit/fuse is responsible for the drain, buy pulling one fuse at a time, while monitoring, until drain stops.
 

LibertyTC

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Ya his battery may be pooched.
If the store is using an electronic load tester that is fine with battery terminals remaining connected.

However if you are using the old school 100 amp draw tester (like I have) disconnect both Jeep battery terminals first.
You must be registered for see images attach

Don't want to damage diodes in the alternator.
If he needs a new battery consider a more powerful longer lasting deep cycle AGM.
Odyssey is the best, it wont die like the rest! Last 10-12 years.
Napa AGM, Exide AGM, etc still are very good batteries.
 

Mike Brierton

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Ya his battery may be pooched.
If the store is using an electronic load tester that is fine with battery terminals remaining connected.

However if you are using the old school 100 amp draw tester (like I have) disconnect both Jeep battery terminals first.
You must be registered for see images attach

Don't want to damage diodes in the alternator.
If he needs a new battery consider a more powerful longer lasting deep cycle AGM.
Odyssey is the best, it wont die like the rest! Last 10-12 years.
Napa AGM, Exide AGM, etc still are very good batteries.


I havent had a chance to test all of my fuses with a multimeter and I am going to go get the battery tested today, but I think the problem might be partly my new stereo because yesterday I charged my battery all the way up then I unplugged the stereo and waited all night. My jeep started up fine this morning and the battery had the same charge as it did last night.

But my battery must also be very weak if it cant handle a stereo, not even playing music or anything, for a couple hours.

But I will definitely look into getting a nicer battery this time around.
 

Mike Brierton

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After load testing the battery, pull out the stereo pigtail harness and double check your connections. You may have something crossed up in it.

So here is what I found out,

My battery was weak and I had it replaced, I forgot to ground out one of my wires from my new stereo so even though the draw was low the weak battery just failed very quickly.

And about the error message I was receiving (no Fuse), I took the positive and negative battery terminals off the battery and clamped them together for about 30 minutes, this drained all the electricity out of the system and acted as a hard reset. Also I pulled and clean my J13 fuse. So between those two things one of them (or both) fixed my error message.

I fixed the issue and the liberty and I are back on the road (and hopefully trails soon)! Thank you for your help!
 

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