Rearend squeaks on '03 KJ ?

[Redsnake]

So the rearend our '03 KJ has developed a squeaking over the past couple of weeks that has gotten worse. It's not from the interior where the seats can squeak or rattle from the latches or from the hatch area.

Our KJ has 182K miles on the odometer. I have replaced the front and rear shocks ~ 2 years back, have replaced the CV joint in the front driveshaft a couple times and other maintenance on the rig is up to date. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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(interim update)

When my wife got home (she drives the KJ 98% of the time) and when pulling in the garage it appears the rear brakes were squealing. Then when she backed up, brake squeal, forward and applied the brakes and squeal. So I'm guessing it's the rear brakes.

I replaced the rear brake pads and the pass rr rotor just this past Spring. I used Napa's mid-grade pad and rotor. There is lot of pad material left. Also I jacked up the rear and spun the tires and there was no squeal or noise and I also had her tap the brake pad while I spun the wheels and there was no sound aND the brakes stopped the wheels. So without any stress or load on the Jeep the brakes were quiet.

It's hard to duplicate the noise while outside the KJ and not actually driving. Could it be the RR spring rubber pads, perhaps a busted shock (I couldn't get the KJ to mimic the sound while bouncing the KJ up and down from the rear bumper).

Rear differential had a fluid change ~ 1 year back and the fluid still looks good and levels are good.

I'm at a loss as to what else it could be. Perhaps the Emergency Brake or could it just be the brake pads need some anti-squeal on the backs of the pads? I didn't use any of that because the pads came w/the 'plastic' shims on the backs.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

I'd bet it's the emergency brake pads inside the rotor.

They're notorious for coming apart - the pads come off the shoes and flop around inside the "top hat" of the rotor. Can create sounds from squealing to grinding to low rubbing sounds - frustrating for sure. Especially since the e-brake isn't worth a crap on the Liberty - I've hated mine since I bought the Jeep

Bob

 

[Redsnake]

When I pulled the rr wheels off and double checked the brake pads and lines and such... I didn't actually pull the rotor off to verify the emergency brake pads were ok. I guess I'll have to pull it all off again to verify they're ok or the culprit.

 

[RenKJ]

I'd bet it's the emergency brake pads inside the rotor.

They're notorious for coming apart - the pads come off the shoes and flop around inside the "top hat" of the rotor. Can create sounds from squealing to grinding to low rubbing sounds - frustrating for sure. Especially since the e-brake isn't worth a crap on the Liberty - I've hated mine since I bought the Jeep

Bob

Ditto on this, ill be ordering a e brake hardware kit this summer its rusted enough that this will happen to me sooner or later

 

[M38 Bob]

Remove pads and apply to all contact points (not between pads and rotor naturally);

VersaChem 26111 - Synthetic Caliper Grease | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Bob

 

[Redsnake]

Remove pads and apply to all contact points (not between pads and rotor naturally);

VersaChem 26111 - Synthetic Caliper Grease | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Bob

Thanks...

That was done during the Original Brake job when installing new pads and hardware. If/when I pull the brakes apart to check the Emergency Brake pad/hardware I'll be sure and re-lubricate all the contact points on the pads. Most definitely something that gets left off brake jobs and can cause all kinds of issues.

 

[Redsnake]

Update:

Due to the Holiday's I haven't had a chance to really work on the KJ. However, the squeaks got worse and I was finally able to narrow down the squeak to the ball joint that rides above the rear differential. Looks like I'll be needing to replace that suspension part/bracket. Now I'll be looking for some tutorials and places to buy the part w/the new bushings and ball joint already installed since I don't have a press or a big bench vise.

Thanks for the tips all!!

 

[tommudd]

Update:

Due to the Holiday's I haven't had a chance to really work on the KJ. However, the squeaks got worse and I was finally able to narrow down the squeak to the ball joint that rides above the rear differential. Looks like I'll be needing to replace that suspension part/bracket. Now I'll be looking for some tutorials and places to buy the part w/the new bushings and ball joint already installed since I don't have a press or a big bench vise.

Thanks for the tips all!!

Rear tri-link, replace with only MOPAR item, easy to do, under 30 minutes ,

 

[tombo_ontario]

Update:

Due to the Holiday's I haven't had a chance to really work on the KJ. However, the squeaks got worse and I was finally able to narrow down the squeak to the ball joint that rides above the rear differential. Looks like I'll be needing to replace that suspension part/bracket. Now I'll be looking for some tutorials and places to buy the part w/the new bushings and ball joint already installed since I don't have a press or a big bench vise.

Thanks for the tips all!!

Most people here will recommend buying the moper rear upper control arm as it'll far outlast the cheap aftermarket parts. it comes with all new bushings and ball joint installed. Easy swap to do to with some simple tools and a floor jack or something.

EDIT: seems like tom beat me to it lol

 

[Redsnake]

Thanks guys! I've been searching for a DIY on this replacement and have found bits and pieces f/ the various forums but nothing from start to finish. Anyone have any links w/ pics showing the how-to?

Also, do you guys have a hot-spot for Mopar parts other then the dealership? The OE upper control arm lasted 180K miles so I'd guess this will be the first/last time I have to replace this if using another Mopar part.

 

[tommudd]

Thanks guys! I've been searching for a DIY on this replacement and have found bits and pieces f/ the various forums but nothing from start to finish. Anyone have any links w/ pics showing the how-to?

Also, do you guys have a hot-spot for Mopar parts other then the dealership? The OE upper control arm lasted 180K miles so I'd guess this will be the first/last time I have to replace this if using another Mopar part.

180,000 ? Thats great

 

[Redsnake]

180,000 ? Thats great

Agreed! We did have to put a new Engine in @ ~ 125K as the piston and push rod had an unfortunate meeting that wasn't expected... but other than that ...

BTW... I've been reading some more on this forum and figure I can get this done w/little problem. I'm no novice at wrenching but since this is the 1st time for doing this swap it's always good to get tips f/those who've already done it before.

 

[tommudd]

Agreed! We did have to put a new Engine in @ ~ 125K as the piston and push rod had an unfortunate meeting that wasn't expected... but other than that ...

BTW... I've been reading some more on this forum and figure I can get this done w/little problem. I'm no novice at wrenching but since this is the 1st time for doing this swap it's always good to get tips f/those who've already done it before.

If not lifted then up on jackstands of course
2 front bolts are easy to get to, may need to push the exhaust over some on the passenger side
For the rear I just remove all 3 bolts that go into the diff.
Since most are rusted makes it easier to remove the ball joint from the bracket with it out in a vice or on the ground.
Remove the cross bolt that holds the ball joint to the bracket , swap out tri-links and reinstall. Be sure to use some loctite on the bolts that go into the rear diff

 

[Redsnake]

If not lifted then up on jackstands of course
2 front bolts are easy to get to, may need to push the exhaust over some on the passenger side
For the rear I just remove all 3 bolts that go into the diff.
Since most are rusted makes it easier to remove the ball joint from the bracket with it out in a vice or on the ground.
Remove the cross bolt that holds the ball joint to the bracket , swap out tri-links and reinstall. Be sure to use some loctite on the bolts that go into the rear diff

Thanks for the info. It's the wives DD KJ and not lifted... the most off-road it gets is backing out of our driveway... I ordered a new complete MOPAR Upper Control Arm w/ bushings and new ball joint f/ rockauto. ($350 shipped vs $515 + tax at my local Jeep dealership). Should make the job easier to just swap in an OE Mopar part and not worry about replacing the ball joint or bushings. I'll keep the busted OE one as a 'spare' or scrap.

 

[tommudd]

Thanks for the info. It's the wives DD KJ and not lifted... the most off-road it gets is backing out of our driveway... I ordered a new complete MOPAR Upper Control Arm w/ bushings and new ball joint f/ rockauto. ($350 shipped vs $515 + tax at my local Jeep dealership). Should make the job easier to just swap in an OE Mopar part and not worry about replacing the ball joint or bushings. I'll keep the busted OE one as a 'spare' or scrap.

I have 11 " scrap ones " piled up around down home.
Never have too many! :happy175:
Plus doesn't ever have to go offroad to get a good lift.
Ride and handling is 100 times better with a quality lift than it ever was brand new stock , lifted my 04 with 20,000 miles, hated to drive the darn thing that first 20,000. Thought about trading it in ride was so bad. After lifting with a full spring lift enjoyed every mile for the next 200,000 . ( 220,000 on it now)

 

[Redsnake]

You should take those scrap ones to a salvage and get some $$ back.

On a serious note... it'll be end of the week before I get the part and this weekend likely before I can swap out the new Upper Control Arm. Will my wive's KJ be ok to daily drive w/the old Control Arm installed or is this a dangerous item once they start going out?

Thanks all.

 

[tommudd]

You should take those scrap ones to a salvage and get some $$ back.

On a serious note... it'll be end of the week before I get the part and this weekend likely before I can swap out the new Upper Control Arm. Will my wive's KJ be ok to daily drive w/the old Control Arm installed or is this a dangerous item once they start going out?

Thanks all.

Depends, I've heard them clunk on some a long time, but then one guy never heard anything and when I went to swap his the ball joint came apart so..............:shrug:

 

[Redsnake]

Update: Thanks to the great advice received here... I was able to swap out the Rear Upper Control Arm w/a new OE Mopar UCA and all is well again. It fixed the issues my wive's KJ was experiencing.

I actually met her for lunch on Friday and took her KJ home to do the work. On my drive home I realized just how bad her KJ was handling. It was VERY squirrelly going around turns and corners. The rear felt like I nearly had 2 flat tires it was so mushy riding. After the new UCA swap her vehicle felt like new again.

Pretty easy install. Toughest part was getting the old Ball Joint to turn loose from the fitting after removing the thru-bolt. Then the next hardest part was jacking up the rear and getting the new ball joint to sit low enough in the mounting bracket to put the thru-bolt back in. Just took a bit of manipulation from 2 floor jacks and it went back into place. I didn't have to remove the muffler as I was able to get that long bolt out w/ a wobble socket and extension. Thankful I didn't have to remove the muffler and add another step to the process.

The OE UCA front rubber bushings weren't totally falling apart, but they were pretty soft compared to the new one. The rubber boot was also ripped and the ball joint was very soft and gone. Not bad considering the KJ has 184K miles on it and this part had never been replaced.