Replaced Steering Rack Bushings During Radiator Swap

[SourKraut]

Saw quite a few posts about replacing the steering rack bushings and what a PITA it was along with the different things that may or may not need to be removed to do it. I noticed the top of the bushing on the drivers side on my 05 was coming apart on top, which seems pretty typical due to oil contamination from changing filters. As title says, I was already in the process of replacing radiator due to leak along with water pump and thermostat. With that stuff removed, along with oil filter, oil drain chute, and both front tires I was able to maneuver the rack enough to get it to rest behind the frame crossmember in a position that I could pound out the bushings with a socket attached to a long extension. I did wedge a small 2x4 cutoff on the passenger side and a pry bar on the drivers side to absorb some of the impact and firm up the rack while pounding out the bushings.

Of course, this probably only helps if you need to R/R the radiator, but I didn't see anything mentioning this method so here ya go.

Now, my question...

The new Moog bushings are only flanged on the bottom along with the metal sleeve compared to the factory bushings that also have a rubber flange/lip on top. The rubber on the Moog bushings protrudes straight up about 1/4 inch on top. Is there any technique to tightening the bolts to the new Moog bushings or just crank it down and let the rubber on top do what it does?

And yes, I know there are poly bushings now available that are better and longer lasting, but I had already ordered the Moogs when I was getting my radiator parts before I looked on here for install tips. Plus, I'm figuring on being in a position to replace them again in a year or two due to other planned repairs/upgrades.

 

[duderz7]

I don't remember the torque spec, but I'd just go with that and call it good. When I replaced mine I also took advantage while in the midst of a radiator and hose install. On top of that I had the entire front suspension and front diff out due to other upgrades. It was super easy!

 

[SourKraut]

To clarify my original concern, once the rack bolts are tightened down the rubber gets molded into what appears to be a flange on top. Assuming after enough time that when you remove the bolts again the rubber is permanently fixed in that position.

I also wanted to give credit to Scamsurvivor's write up on the radiator replacement procedure found here: https://www.jeepkj.com/threads/2006...-waterpump-thermostat-hose-replacement.60465/

Even without pictures, it was much more detailed and helpful than the Haynes manual.

I'll add one other tip that might be helpful to those with the mechanical cooling fan. When using the special spanner wrench (I rented from Autozone) to remove the fan/pulley, there are 4 holes in the pulley roughly in the 2, 4, 8, 10 o'clock positions. I was feeling around and figured there were only two holes. It is so tight in there with belts, hoses, and other parts getting in the way of the spanner wrench and is difficult to get the bolts on the spanner into the holes in the pulley to hold it while using the 36mm wrench to loosen the fan nut. I ended up positioning the spanner to the right (if looking at the car from the front) near the power steering reservoir. There is a little more space on the left side to use the 36mm wrench to break the fan nut loose. As is pointed out in other posts, it is COUNTER-CLOCKWISE thread, not clockwise as the Haynes manual describes.

 

[SourKraut]

I also wanted to point out that Mopar thermostats may be in short supply based on my experience. The first dealer I spoke to said they were out of stock and are currently on backorder from the mothership with no ETA given. Fortunately, another dealer further out happened to have 3 on hand.

I also ordered one on moparwholesaleparts.com only to have that order cancelled the next day with the same “no ETA” message – after further research this website is run by a dealer out of Arizona. Anyway, if you’re thinking of repairs involving the t-stat any time soon, make sure you lock down the Mopar t-stat before you begin.

Not sure if any aftermarket parts have proven to be more reliable – would be nice since the dealer is charging $60 for the damn thing.