Struts and shocks ??

[rosgood]

The front end of my 07 Sport is feeling every bump so figured at 116,000 miles it is time to replace struts. Here is my dummy question.. If I order from RockAuto (MONROE 171577L and MONROE 171577R) is that all I will need? No additional shocks for front?

Are there other acceptable manufacturers?
Can a shadetree mechanic install these?

Thanks

 

[dude1116]

If you're going for those (Monroe brand), that's all you need. (Complete assembly) However most on here would argue that you should upgrade while you have a chance (to OME/Ironman).

I say do whatever fits your budget.

 

[tommudd]

The front end of my 07 Sport is feeling every bump so figured at 116,000 miles it is time to replace struts. Here is my dummy question.. If I order from RockAuto (MONROE 171577L and MONROE 171577R) is that all I will need? No additional shocks for front?

Are there other acceptable manufacturers?
Can a shadetree mechanic install these?

Thanks

Monroe is as low as I would go as far as shocks go
If those are full replacements with springs and shocks then they will do for a while
With 116,000 you got more than double the life out of the originals for sure ( I had to junk mine at 20,000 since I couldn't stand the terrible ride any longer) :happy175:
Of course Ironman and OME are great upgrades and will ride and handle WAAAAAY better than new stock ever did and last longer as well

 

[rosgood]

Thanks guys... Before deciding if that is the real need, what else should I look for? Dont want to buy new struts and find out it was not the issue. Problem is I feel every bump on both sides of front and it rattles. I tow this car behind our motor home so may have some cause there??

Also, can an average guy change them out? I know I need an alignment but other than that?

 

[dude1116]

Thanks guys... Before deciding if that is the real need, what else should I look for? Dont want to buy new struts and find out it was not the issue. Problem is I feel every bump on both sides of front and it rattles. I tow this car behind our motor home so may have some cause there??

Also, can an average guy change them out? I know I need an alignment but other than that?

Define average. You need to take the wheel off, Remove the brake assembly (for more room. Some might argue it's not necessary). Remove the upper ball joint nut, knock out the upper ball joint by using a mini sledge on the steering knuckle. Remove both upper and lower clevis bolts. Remove the upper bolt on the sway bar end link.

Remove the bolts holding the coilover assembly from inside the engine bay. You will either have to remove the air box or the battery tray depending on your side. Use a second set of hands to help catch the coilovers as they drop, then reverse the procedure. Easiest way to get the coilovers out once all hardware is removed is bottom going towards the back of the Jeep.

You can mix up the order a bit. You can leave the clevis bolts in place if you don't have a second set of hands to help catch the coilover assembly as it is unbolted.

Hope that helps.

 

[M38 Bob]

The quick strut version you've listed can be changed without special tools or vocabulary. Less expensive units without springs installed must be changed with special equipment, compressors.

Bob

 

[ouroboros]

If you have original sway links you may break one off, just be wary you might need a new one or both.

 

[CzarKJ]

If you have original sway links you may break one off, just be wary you might need a new one or both.

X2

 

[tommudd]

If you have original sway links you may break one off, just be wary you might need a new one or both.

really??? man I must be lucky have never broke any off on any KJ that has been through my garages

 

[tommudd]

Thanks guys... Before deciding if that is the real need, what else should I look for? Dont want to buy new struts and find out it was not the issue. Problem is I feel every bump on both sides of front and it rattles. I tow this car behind our motor home so may have some cause there??

Also, can an average guy change them out? I know I need an alignment but other than that?

With that many miles you are at least 50,000 miles over due anyways

 

[CzarKJ]

really??? man I must be lucky have never broke any off on any KJ that has been through my garages

Rust is a major pain around here on second hand vehicles. Both top bolts were frozen into my sway bar end links when I did my left. Had to break them off then go get new ones.

 

[tommudd]

Yep we never get snow, never have salt on the roads, no vehicle has ever rusted any at all in Ohio :emotions34::emotions34::emotions34::shrug::happy175:
Worked on plenty of rust buckets, its all what you use and how you remove bolts

 

[ouroboros]

really??? man I must be lucky have never broke any off on any KJ that has been through my garages

It *could* happen, not that it's a guarantee that he'll need them. Better safe than sorry in my book. Shit, you can get a pair for less than $50. That or motivation for quick discos from JBA :shrug:

 

[M38 Bob]

No rust to speak of here, unless it's a Yankee escapee. Arkansas pothole roads, they end up beat to hell, rattling, screeking, rubber bushings missing. Hell, I often remove em with a sawsall just to save time.

Bob

Edit; Or the torch.

 

[dude1116]

If you have original sway links you may break one off, just be wary you might need a new one or both.

Didn't know this was a thing. With Jersey salt mine came off like butter. Just needed to make sure they weren't being pulled at before unbolting them (Jack up the LCA)

 

[ouroboros]

Didn't know this was a thing. With Jersey salt mine came off like butter. Just needed to make sure they weren't being pulled at before unbolting them (Jack up the LCA)

It's happened to me more than once, maybe I'm just a black sheep here? Huh.:emotions34: