Temp Gauge Not Moving - ETC light and Engine Tick

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beemill

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My wife's 2011 KK is in Vermont (-9 degrees) and has shut off twice now. First time she said it had been running for over an hour and the temp gauge hadn't budged at all. The ETC light and check engine light were on also (know she should have stopped the car well before an hour went by but it is what it is at this point). The car then shut off itself. After about 20 minutes of waiting for triple A it started back up and the temp gauge moved to middle and the warning lights went off except for the check engine. Triple A came and checked fluids and said it was somewhat common and likely was a pocket of frozen fluid somewhere that needed to thaw.

She started heading home (NC) and 10 minutes later the same symptoms repeated itself and the car shut off again before she could get back to her friends house. She said the second time that the temp gauge was actually going from total cold to the highest temp and back.

Thermostat?

Mid November this year I did a coolant flush to fix the heat (dealer wanted to replace the heater core). I flushed water from our hose through both directions into the heater core and both directions in the pipes going to and from the heater core lines. I ran a synthetic flush+cleaner through the car twice and flushed with distilled water in between each. I used mopar coolant from the dealer. Is there anything I might have screwed up doing that? Maybe the 50/50 coolant just froze b/c of the extreme cold in VT?

The car was also recently at the dealer to have the steering rack re-replaced. That was Dec 8th. It was just back to get the alignment done. I'm thinking those things wouldn't have impacted this issue but there's no telling.

Getting a little nervous about what the dealer will say tomorrow (nothing open today). She'll need to get home quick and we're gonna be at their mercy as far as whatever they tell us needs to be done.

Any experience with the same issue and it's resolution would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 

HoosierJeeper

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Can she get to an Autozone, O'Reillys or Advance and get the codes read? They'll do it for free. I'm wondering if the tstat is sticking open and that would cause a shit ton of issues.
 

beemill

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It's at a mechanic now and apparently all of them up north are inundated with cars that are dying and are also backed up b/c of the holiday break.

Forgot to mention that the second time the car started up and went full hot she said that there was a clicking sound. She just spoke to one mechanic (and a co-worker here who used to build race cars) said that the clicking could be a blown gasket.

Sounds like this could be really expensive.
 

beemill

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So the mechanic said the engine was completely hydrolocked. Said they couldn't turn the crank even a quarter of an inch even after removing the fan belt (in case the water pump was frozen).

He said their gauge showed that the coolant was only rated to 0 degrees. I said that I just flushed it a month ago and that the coolant was mopar 50/50 straight from the dealer rated to -37.

He said that if I didn't take the 'plugs out of the bottom of the engine block' and had flushed it with water then that water would have still been in the bottom of the block and would have caused this. Does this make sense? I never came across anything about removing plugs from the engine block to flush the system in anything I read or heard.
 

HoosierJeeper

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He's referring to the freeze plugs. About half of the system capacity is in the block, so if you filled it up with 50/50, you'd be at like 25/75 or something (math ain't my strong suit right now LOL) so it makes sense. Did it cause any damage? get it thawed and fill with HOAT coolant only (no Prestone/Universal stuff). Zerex G05 is easy to get.
 

beemill

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Thanks HoosierJeeper.

I'm blown away that nothing I've come across mentions this at all. Even after hearing about the freeze plugs I'm not finding people talking about removing them for a coolant flush or about the change in mix ratio if they aren't removed for draining.

Super frustrated.

The mechanic believes the engine is completely dead. We're looking at options for someone to actually dig into it and find out for sure.

Thanks again!
 

HoosierJeeper

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No prob- sorry that it doesn't look good. To be honest, I probably would've done it the same way as you, you would've thought a flush would've flushed it all out. A red flag might have been if it only took 2 gallons, since capacity is 3.5. How much did it take? Maybe full strength would've worked and you would've ended up around 50/50 but who would've thought.
 

beemill

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I honestly didn't check how much went in so totally my fault at this point. Expensive lesson learned.
 

renegade 04

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When I flush my jeep I just pull the engine drain plus located under the middle freeze plug on each side. Its a hex head plug.
 

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