Transfer slowly binding

[Richiem8]

Hi all, sorry for another transfer case binding thread. But I haven’t seen any with similar symptoms.
02 kj Cherokee with 3.7l starts to bind in 2wd. Free to begin with but after a 15min drive gets progressively worse and is binding and jumping hard when cornering. Changing into 4wd only seems to make the binding worse and car needs to “cool down” before it frees up again.
Has anyone here had to deal with something like this And what was the fix?
Also if I remove the front drive shaft until I get to the mechanic will this cause any more damage. I’ve seen people say no but with the slow engaging of the 4wd/ binding will this cause more damage?
Any help would me much appreciated.

 

[ikuo78]

Does your rear differential have Trac-Lok?

If so, I recommend a hard differential oil of about 75W-140 for limited slip differentials.
I use mineral oil, which Sunday Racer will ruin in a day, but it lasts for a year.
In Japan, I can buy 2 liters for about $30.

Single grade Toyota genuine limited slip oil isn't bad either.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[duderz7]

Could be your front driveshaft binding, removing it might help diagnose your problem and yes it's fine to run without, all of the 2x ones do.

 

[KJowner]

Removing the front driveshaft will remove the issue by making it permanently 2wd, however I would get the transfer box looked at, see if the leaver is actually doing anything as a start.

 

[Richiem8]

Have an update of sorts. Ran it to work without the front drive shaft and no binding in corners. But there is a whine and vibration from the rear diff when tight cornering. I’m thinking I may have two problems unless a rear diff problem could affect the transfer case somehow.
Will check to see if the diff is lsd tomorrow replace the oil and add lsd additive if needed to see if that fixes that part of the problem.
Thanks for the replies so far

 

[Jeremy-WI]

Can you turn the flange on the front of the transfer case by hand with it in 2wd and in park?

 

[Richiem8]

Just checked after driving home and it’s spinning free. Have checked the rear diff and it’s lsd so I’m wondering if it has the wrong gear oil. I’ll grab some slip additive and see if that makes any difference.
Still not sure why the binding issue was worse with the front drive shaft in place if the transfer spins freely.

 

[Richiem8]

Removing the front driveshaft will remove the issue by making it permanently 2wd, however I would get the transfer box looked at, see if the leaver is actually doing anything as a start.

I’ve ordered a new bushing for the actuator connection. What was left of it disappeared when I touched it. It’s booked in but have a six week wait.

 

[ikuo78]

Mine was also vibrating and making a sound that sounded like a stone in an empty can.
I could also hear a sound that sounded like the transfer chain was shaking, so it must have been shaking a lot.

Additives aren't bad either.
I also had some improvement with it at first.
I'm sure somewhere on this site they recommended hard oil, so that's what I ended up doing.

I have not confirmed whether this symptom of Trac-Lok is due to physical damage, but it can be cured by hardening the oil.

 

[KJowner]

if you don't put friction modifier in the oil the plates can't slip = lots of wear. I've got one on the bench at the moment to go in mine once I get it rebuilt.

 

[ikuo78]

if you don't put friction modifier in the oil the plates can't slip = lots of wear. I've got one on the bench at the moment to go in mine once I get it rebuilt.

That's certainly true.
Hard oil + friction modifier are best.

Please leave a review to see if the new clutch pack is working well.

 

[KJowner]

That's certainly true.
Hard oil + friction modifier are best.

Please leave a review to see if the new clutch pack is working well.

At the moment it's planned to be the best bits from 2 old ones, depending on what's inside, UK import taxes and shipping make bits from the US very expensive. I'll put a post up when I get round to it, I've got an old chimney stack to knock down whilst the weather is good!

 

[Richiem8]

if you don't put friction modifier in the oil the plates can't slip = lots of wear. I've got one on the bench at the moment to go in mine once I get it rebuilt.

Just put a bottle of penrite limslip in and it seems to have improved things. I’ve only just bought this car and it looks like the franchise mechanic that did the last service hasn’t used the right oil. Looks pretty new and doesn’t stink so I think that’s what’s happened. When I have time I’ll do a full oil change. Do you guys use just lsd rated oil or still add additive on top of that. I’ve read differing posts about what to use.

 

[KJowner]

I've done both when I've changed the oil, didn't notice anything different.

 

[ikuo78]

I use oil that is compatible with mechanical LSD.
After replacing it in the spring, it will start chattering lightly a year later.
Add additives at that point.
That way it will barely last two years.
Since it is weak in summer, it has a seasonal replacement cycle.

There seems to be a big difference depending on the brand.
I chose the one with the highest chattering reduction effect based on Amazon reviews.
Mine widens the tread by 120mm with wheel spacers and wheel offsets, so it's a bit harsh on the LSD.

I feel like there is a lot of time lag when locking.
So, I think that the fundamental cause is insufficient height of the clutch pack or a defective return due to damage to the fitting part.

 

[KJowner]

I use oil that is compatible with mechanical LSD.
After replacing it in the spring, it will start chattering lightly a year later.
Add additives at that point.
That way it will barely last two years.
Since it is weak in summer, it has a seasonal replacement cycle.

There seems to be a big difference depending on the brand.
I chose the one with the highest chattering reduction effect based on Amazon reviews.
Mine widens the tread by 120mm with wheel spacers and wheel offsets, so it's a bit harsh on the LSD.

I feel like there is a lot of time lag when locking.
So, I think that the fundamental cause is insufficient height of the clutch pack or a defective return due to damage to the fitting part.

I imagine your clutch packs are excessively worn, it's not a bad job to do, but you do need to drop the carrier out and get it on the bench. You also need to make a tool up to reset the carrier bearing position and preload, mine is a nut welded to a bit of pipe with an old socket welded in the end so I can attach my torque wrench.

 

[Richiem8]

thanks for all the help and advise guys. Front drive shaft is back on and it looks like the binding is gone. Must have been the rear diff causing the issues all along. It’s interesting how the binding was worse with the front drive shaft in place but there you go. If anything else crops up regarding this I’ll post an update but hopefully this may help someone in the future with the same problem.