2003 Jeep Liberty Concerns & Dealership/Service Center Issues
Hello, I am a first time poster here & just wanted to get some advice as to some issues I have been experiencing with a dealership.
I initially brought the vehicle to the dealership for a oil change & upon picking the car up I drove for about 4 miles & the oil light came on, my neighbor & friend checked the oil & no oil was in the car. I alerted the dealership & they said bring it in so I did, after arriving at the dealership the engine began ticking in what sounded like the top side of the engine. So I got a call a few days later informing me that the oil pump more then likely failed, they replaced the oil pump along with several other parts due to sludge build up, after this work was done I picked the car up & it over heated all the way to the max rapidly, again called the dealer and they said bring it in so I did & the next day I found out the cooling system was no purged or the cooling fluid was not installed correctly after the major work was done so they fixed it, after that picked the car up & after driving on the highway & about 15 miles later oil light comes on & engine starts ticking rapidly so I pull over, again call the dealer and they have it towed there, get a call several days later & they informed me they test drove it but no ticking so they replaced the oil pressure sensor as a courtesy to see if that resolved the oil light even though I informed them the engine was ticking when the light came on so replacing a sensor was obviously not going to fix the problem.
I pick it up and again the oil light comes on and engine ticks rapidly 2 miles away, fortunately I was able to get the vehicle there since I was right down the road safely. Now they have the vehicle and I informed them I want it fixed since with no oil being in the car that's when all the problems started.
I just want some insight as to that this could be if anyone has any guidance, is my engine shot from there being no oil in it? Again oil pump, timing chain, chain cover, and a lot of other parts around that area were replaced due to sludge build up so that is not the problem unless the parts installed were defective, could the vehicle overheating due to the cooling being installed improperly caused another issue to arise?
The ticking really began when the car is driven for a few miles & it is fully warmed up and gets more rapid as you drive.
**Update 1-9-2018:
Thanks for all the help everyone! Spoke with the dealership today & they owned up to the technician not putting oil back in the vehicle.
I have 3 options:
1. Used 100k mile engine no charge.
2. Jasper brand new 0 mile rebuilt engine $1300.
3. Chrysler rebuilt 0 mile engine $1300.
They are waving labor & taking $1700 off of the engine, anyone have any insight?
Honestly to the point where I would like to be done with this, but if anyone else has insight I would appreciate it, they did inform me it takes 14 hours roughly to put it in & the engine runs about $3k, is the price of the engine accurate for a 3 year/100k mile warranty & being rebuild from the block out with new parts?
**Update 1-10-2018:
I chose option 3 the new Chrysler engine for $1300, I did get some estimates for hiring a attorney to take on the case and they were more then the $1300 not to mention they referenced that the dealership could drag out the case costing me a lot more in the long run, I did have the option thrown out there to report this to the states attorney which would be a nice option since it would not cost me anything or doing some research and taking this to small claims court myself but I am going to wait until all is said and done to see how things go moving forward.
I can not thank everyone enough for all of the advice as it has been priceless in this time of need & chaos for me. Just so I know based on what has happened could there have been anything more damaged besides the engine? I am assuming the engine is the only thing that can be damaged running it without oil but please correct me if I am wrong, when I initially got the vehicle back for a short period of time after the oil pump was replaced it did overheat twice for a short period of time but I shut off the engine as soon as I noticed, I read that the radiator can heat up in the front of the car & melt the plastic housing the fluid runs through but I did not notice any leaking when I got it back for the short time.
**Update 1-25-2018:
So I wanted to update everyone since this is still ongoing.
I went to test drive the vehicle yesterday & there was a check engine light that came on as soon as we went for the drive which turned out to be the intake manifold so that has been replaced as of today, while test driving the car there was a slight tremble when starting out from a dead stop so when we got back they took the vehicle back in the shop & today we found out there was a bushing that is bad or something which was causing the trembling/stuttering when you would accelerate from a stop, I think it something to do with how the transmission connects to the engine?
If someone has more info as to what this could be it would be appreciated, that is being replaced tomorrow and hopefully that is when we are looking at everything being done. So in least the engine is in, & the car runs wonderfully except these small issues that are being corrected by them.
Thanks again everyone for the help!
**Update 1-26-2018:
So basically it was explained to be a busing that sits between the transmission and motor that was causing the delay in acceleration and the vibration when accelerating from a complete stop, ETA is Monday for completion so I finally have a day to look forward to lol!
I am guessing once you start removing some things from the vehicle that have been there for 14 years things do not always go back the way they were once they are put back? I do not know the exact name of the part that has to be replaced since I did not push for a further explanation.
**Update 1-29-2018:
So got my jeep back, some scuffs on the newly painted front bumper and front grille but I am working on getting that resolved now. Aside from that seems to be running well, going to take the jeep for a longer ride tomorrow to ensure everything is fine. Thanks everyone!
**Update 1-30-2018:
So I have had my jeep back for 2 days now and all has been fine! Up until today on the way back from the mall I was a few miles away from my home when I noticed my phone was almost dead so I plugged in a charger that goes in the input in the front of my jeep & immediately after plugging it in the check engine light came on, as noted I was a few miles away from home so I drove home & did not notice any strange noises or loss in power or anything, turned the jeep on and off and the light is still there. I am going to call them tomorrow to get this sorted as well. Thanks everyone!
**Update 1-31-2018:
So I have had my jeep back for 2 days now and all has been fine! Up until today on the way back from the mall I was a few miles away from my home when I noticed my phone was almost dead so I plugged in a charger that goes in the input in the front of my jeep & immediately after plugging it in the check engine light came on, as noted I was a few miles away from home so I drove home & did not notice any strange noises or loss in power or anything, turned the jeep on and off and the light is still there. I am going to call them tomorrow to get this sorted as well. Thanks everyone!
I will get the code and report back when they open tomorrow, thanks!
**Update 2-1-2018:
The code was cleared out but this is what I was told: o2 left side back bank. Let me know if you have any insight, thanks!
So I am getting the code cleared out & my jeeps grille has been painted, I did notice that it was idling kinda rough for the short time I had it back which I read could be related to the o2 sensor going bad. They are unwilling to work with me on the o2 sensor due to the magnitude of work they had to do and costs covered, supposedly the gaskets all needed to be replaced and the entire fuel system had to also be replaced when the new engine was put in. The sensor is $150 and labor they are saying is $129, I was looking at NGK o2 sensors and for the $150 OEM price of the sensor I could almost get all 4 at once for the same price?
Could the engine failing & me driving it several times with the oil issues of caused the o2 sensor to get gummed up with oil & cause it to fail or would this seemingly be unrelated? I am wondering if I should push this or just get some NGK sensors (all 4 for $150) or just replace the 1 failing sensor and get OEM for $150 for and pay the labor?
It was noted that if I replace just the 1 sensor it could cause some issues with the others due to their age.
**Update 2-2-2018:
So I just spoke with the service center again and they informed me that the codes that were thrown are P0138, P0158, & P0151, the codes were cleared out but today when they re-ran the check there were 3, the first time the code was P0138, I am assuming I should replace both downstream.
I am guessing that when they replaced the engine the sensors had to be removed & put back in? I am wondering if they did not possibly re-connect the harness all the way, or would that throw a different code?
Regardless I am going to pick up the sensors now and having my friend put them in for $60, thanks!
Edit: Just called my friend & he is holding off on any work, I am taking it back to the service center so they can do what you told me & monitor the live data & pin point if there is another underlying issue, thank you so much as you may of just saved me some money! I will update you once I get word back from the service center. Honestly before I took it to the service center initially I NEVER had any major problems & it amazes me how things just keep popping up left & right.
Service center has my jeep now, waiting on the results of the tests.
Hello, I am a first time poster here & just wanted to get some advice as to some issues I have been experiencing with a dealership.
I initially brought the vehicle to the dealership for a oil change & upon picking the car up I drove for about 4 miles & the oil light came on, my neighbor & friend checked the oil & no oil was in the car. I alerted the dealership & they said bring it in so I did, after arriving at the dealership the engine began ticking in what sounded like the top side of the engine. So I got a call a few days later informing me that the oil pump more then likely failed, they replaced the oil pump along with several other parts due to sludge build up, after this work was done I picked the car up & it over heated all the way to the max rapidly, again called the dealer and they said bring it in so I did & the next day I found out the cooling system was no purged or the cooling fluid was not installed correctly after the major work was done so they fixed it, after that picked the car up & after driving on the highway & about 15 miles later oil light comes on & engine starts ticking rapidly so I pull over, again call the dealer and they have it towed there, get a call several days later & they informed me they test drove it but no ticking so they replaced the oil pressure sensor as a courtesy to see if that resolved the oil light even though I informed them the engine was ticking when the light came on so replacing a sensor was obviously not going to fix the problem.
I pick it up and again the oil light comes on and engine ticks rapidly 2 miles away, fortunately I was able to get the vehicle there since I was right down the road safely. Now they have the vehicle and I informed them I want it fixed since with no oil being in the car that's when all the problems started.
I just want some insight as to that this could be if anyone has any guidance, is my engine shot from there being no oil in it? Again oil pump, timing chain, chain cover, and a lot of other parts around that area were replaced due to sludge build up so that is not the problem unless the parts installed were defective, could the vehicle overheating due to the cooling being installed improperly caused another issue to arise?
The ticking really began when the car is driven for a few miles & it is fully warmed up and gets more rapid as you drive.
**Update 1-9-2018:
Thanks for all the help everyone! Spoke with the dealership today & they owned up to the technician not putting oil back in the vehicle.
I have 3 options:
1. Used 100k mile engine no charge.
2. Jasper brand new 0 mile rebuilt engine $1300.
3. Chrysler rebuilt 0 mile engine $1300.
They are waving labor & taking $1700 off of the engine, anyone have any insight?
Honestly to the point where I would like to be done with this, but if anyone else has insight I would appreciate it, they did inform me it takes 14 hours roughly to put it in & the engine runs about $3k, is the price of the engine accurate for a 3 year/100k mile warranty & being rebuild from the block out with new parts?
**Update 1-10-2018:
I chose option 3 the new Chrysler engine for $1300, I did get some estimates for hiring a attorney to take on the case and they were more then the $1300 not to mention they referenced that the dealership could drag out the case costing me a lot more in the long run, I did have the option thrown out there to report this to the states attorney which would be a nice option since it would not cost me anything or doing some research and taking this to small claims court myself but I am going to wait until all is said and done to see how things go moving forward.
I can not thank everyone enough for all of the advice as it has been priceless in this time of need & chaos for me. Just so I know based on what has happened could there have been anything more damaged besides the engine? I am assuming the engine is the only thing that can be damaged running it without oil but please correct me if I am wrong, when I initially got the vehicle back for a short period of time after the oil pump was replaced it did overheat twice for a short period of time but I shut off the engine as soon as I noticed, I read that the radiator can heat up in the front of the car & melt the plastic housing the fluid runs through but I did not notice any leaking when I got it back for the short time.
**Update 1-25-2018:
So I wanted to update everyone since this is still ongoing.
I went to test drive the vehicle yesterday & there was a check engine light that came on as soon as we went for the drive which turned out to be the intake manifold so that has been replaced as of today, while test driving the car there was a slight tremble when starting out from a dead stop so when we got back they took the vehicle back in the shop & today we found out there was a bushing that is bad or something which was causing the trembling/stuttering when you would accelerate from a stop, I think it something to do with how the transmission connects to the engine?
If someone has more info as to what this could be it would be appreciated, that is being replaced tomorrow and hopefully that is when we are looking at everything being done. So in least the engine is in, & the car runs wonderfully except these small issues that are being corrected by them.
Thanks again everyone for the help!
**Update 1-26-2018:
So basically it was explained to be a busing that sits between the transmission and motor that was causing the delay in acceleration and the vibration when accelerating from a complete stop, ETA is Monday for completion so I finally have a day to look forward to lol!
I am guessing once you start removing some things from the vehicle that have been there for 14 years things do not always go back the way they were once they are put back? I do not know the exact name of the part that has to be replaced since I did not push for a further explanation.
**Update 1-29-2018:
So got my jeep back, some scuffs on the newly painted front bumper and front grille but I am working on getting that resolved now. Aside from that seems to be running well, going to take the jeep for a longer ride tomorrow to ensure everything is fine. Thanks everyone!
**Update 1-30-2018:
So I have had my jeep back for 2 days now and all has been fine! Up until today on the way back from the mall I was a few miles away from my home when I noticed my phone was almost dead so I plugged in a charger that goes in the input in the front of my jeep & immediately after plugging it in the check engine light came on, as noted I was a few miles away from home so I drove home & did not notice any strange noises or loss in power or anything, turned the jeep on and off and the light is still there. I am going to call them tomorrow to get this sorted as well. Thanks everyone!
**Update 1-31-2018:
So I have had my jeep back for 2 days now and all has been fine! Up until today on the way back from the mall I was a few miles away from my home when I noticed my phone was almost dead so I plugged in a charger that goes in the input in the front of my jeep & immediately after plugging it in the check engine light came on, as noted I was a few miles away from home so I drove home & did not notice any strange noises or loss in power or anything, turned the jeep on and off and the light is still there. I am going to call them tomorrow to get this sorted as well. Thanks everyone!
I will get the code and report back when they open tomorrow, thanks!
**Update 2-1-2018:
The code was cleared out but this is what I was told: o2 left side back bank. Let me know if you have any insight, thanks!
So I am getting the code cleared out & my jeeps grille has been painted, I did notice that it was idling kinda rough for the short time I had it back which I read could be related to the o2 sensor going bad. They are unwilling to work with me on the o2 sensor due to the magnitude of work they had to do and costs covered, supposedly the gaskets all needed to be replaced and the entire fuel system had to also be replaced when the new engine was put in. The sensor is $150 and labor they are saying is $129, I was looking at NGK o2 sensors and for the $150 OEM price of the sensor I could almost get all 4 at once for the same price?
Could the engine failing & me driving it several times with the oil issues of caused the o2 sensor to get gummed up with oil & cause it to fail or would this seemingly be unrelated? I am wondering if I should push this or just get some NGK sensors (all 4 for $150) or just replace the 1 failing sensor and get OEM for $150 for and pay the labor?
It was noted that if I replace just the 1 sensor it could cause some issues with the others due to their age.
**Update 2-2-2018:
So I just spoke with the service center again and they informed me that the codes that were thrown are P0138, P0158, & P0151, the codes were cleared out but today when they re-ran the check there were 3, the first time the code was P0138, I am assuming I should replace both downstream.
I am guessing that when they replaced the engine the sensors had to be removed & put back in? I am wondering if they did not possibly re-connect the harness all the way, or would that throw a different code?
Regardless I am going to pick up the sensors now and having my friend put them in for $60, thanks!
Edit: Just called my friend & he is holding off on any work, I am taking it back to the service center so they can do what you told me & monitor the live data & pin point if there is another underlying issue, thank you so much as you may of just saved me some money! I will update you once I get word back from the service center. Honestly before I took it to the service center initially I NEVER had any major problems & it amazes me how things just keep popping up left & right.
Service center has my jeep now, waiting on the results of the tests.
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