2003 Jeep Liberty Concerns

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Concerned

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So I have had my jeep back for 2 days now and all has been fine! Up until today on the way back from the mall I was a few miles away from my home when I noticed my phone was almost dead so I plugged in a charger that goes in the input in the front of my jeep & immediately after plugging it in the check engine light came on, as noted I was a few miles away from home so I drove home & did not notice any strange noises or loss in power or anything, turned the jeep on and off and the light is still there. I am going to call them tomorrow to get this sorted as well. Thanks everyone!
 
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Concerned

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So apparently plugging in the charger into the input in the front of my jeep was coincidental because the check engine light that came on is a o2 sensor code noting it needs to be replaced, it is the o2 sensor for the catalytic convertor & unfortunately I will need to do this because I need to pass emissions in a week! Is there anything they could have done to provoke this part in going bad early or is this just a coincidence and one of them things?
 

HoosierJeeper

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Can you get us the exact code?

There's a chance it's a coincidence, but it's very possible something got messed up. For example when my 2015 Cherokee had to get the transmission replaced (only had 3k miles on it!), an oxygen sensor got crossthreaded upon reassembly and created an exhaust leak that caused an intermittent CEL. Took a second dealer to find the issue, but ended up having to have the entire exhaust system replaced. Then they f'ed up one of the hangers and it sounded like the exhaust would fall off, got that fixed finally. So dealers can cause other stuff to go bad. If you can get us the exact code, we can have a better idea.
 

Concerned

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Can you get us the exact code?

There's a chance it's a coincidence, but it's very possible something got messed up. For example when my 2015 Cherokee had to get the transmission replaced (only had 3k miles on it!), an oxygen sensor got crossthreaded upon reassembly and created an exhaust leak that caused an intermittent CEL. Took a second dealer to find the issue, but ended up having to have the entire exhaust system replaced. Then they f'ed up one of the hangers and it sounded like the exhaust would fall off, got that fixed finally. So dealers can cause other stuff to go bad. If you can get us the exact code, we can have a better idea.

I will get the code and report back when they open tomorrow, thanks!
 

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The code was cleared out but this is what I was told: o2 left side back bank. Let me know if you have any insight, thanks!

Hm I was hoping for P0 code...not much to go off of on that otherwise. Sorry...
 

Concerned

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So I am getting the code cleared out & my jeeps grille has been painted, I did notice that it was idling kinda rough for the short time I had it back which I read could be related to the o2 sensor going bad. They are unwilling to work with me on the o2 sensor due to the magnitude of work they had to do and costs covered, supposedly the gaskets all needed to be replaced and the entire fuel system had to also be replaced when the new engine was put in. The sensor is $150 and labor they are saying is $129, I was looking at NGK o2 sensors and for the $150 OEM price of the sensor I could almost get all 4 at once for the same price?

Could the engine failing & me driving it several times with the oil issues of caused the o2 sensor to get gummed up with oil & cause it to fail or would this seemingly be unrelated? I am wondering if I should push this or just get some NGK sensors (all 4 for $150) or just replace the 1 failing sensor and get OEM for $150 for and pay the labor?

It was noted that if I replace just the 1 sensor it could cause some issues with the others due to their age.
 

JeepJeepster

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Gonna be honest, if that were me and they did such things then the Jeep would be sitting in their show room.... Props to you for handling this so well...

I replaced both downstream o2 sensors in my 04 when it had around 90k on it... May have just been their time... some people say to only use mopar sensors but the NTK sensors seem to be working well in mine...
 

Concerned

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Gonna be honest, if that were me and they did such things then the Jeep would be sitting in their show room.... Props to you for handling this so well...

I replaced both downstream o2 sensors in my 04 when it had around 90k on it... May have just been their time... some people say to only use mopar sensors but the NTK sensors seem to be working well in mine...

Thanks for the advice! They have NTK at my local advance auto for about the same price as the NGK onces on amazon, just curious why did you only do the downstream and not up? If one goes out is it really not warranted to do them all?
 

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NTK=Mopar

I'd rather do them one at a time. No real reason to do all 4 at once. Upstream ones are tricky to get at. Get yourself an oxygen sensor socket, the auto parts store will have them. Do it with the exhaust hot. The one I replaced literally broke free with a slight heave on the breaker bar. It was a 10 minute job.

That's utter BS that they won't help any more....it started with an oil change. What were their exact words? I'd call a local news station.
 
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Concerned

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NTK=Mopar

I'd rather do them one at a time. No real reason to do all 4 at once. Upstream ones are tricky to get at. Get yourself an oxygen sensor socket, the auto parts store will have them. Do it with the exhaust hot. The one I replaced literally broke free with a slight heave on the breaker bar. It was a 10 minute job.

That's utter BS that they won't help any more....it started with an oil change. What were their exact words? I'd call a local news station.

Thanks you! I can not thank you enough for your guidance and help through this, it has been invaluable to me. They basically said there was nothing they could have possibly done to cause the sensor to go bad, they said that if the unexpected things such as the fuel line system, gaskets, and intake manifold did not come up then they would have more leeway to help but they are at a loss with $6k invested in my car.

So basically they also informed me that since the sensors are so old that replacing just one would cause that 1 to run at 100% & the others may not be tripping a code but could be running anywhere from 60 - 100% causing issues and another code to trip, thats why I asked if I should do them all.

I am mechanically inclined, you think this is something I can take on by myself? They informed me that the sensor could take anywhere from 1 hour to 4 hours depending on any complications but I should rest assured if it takes over an hour they would not charge any extra. The way you explained it makes me feel I can take this on, I will list the parts below:

https://www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/oxygen-sensor?filters=4294771443 (full list)
https://www.autozone.com/emission-c...sensor/ntk-oxygen-sensor/501839_63039_0_97999
https://www.autozone.com/emission-c...sensor/ntk-oxygen-sensor/408122_78996_0_97999
https://www.autozone.com/emission-c...sensor/ntk-oxygen-sensor/408127_78996_0_98000
https://www.autozone.com/emission-c...sensor/ntk-oxygen-sensor/408451_63039_0_98000

Also I found another thread where someone suggested these sensors on Amazon, are these mopar as well?
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sx_as?...&vehicle=2003-42-353-13--9--8-3409----113---1

I think I will consider your advice on running a story but ATM I am still tied up with the dealership getting the issue of the scratched paint and hood latch fixed, thanks!
 
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HoosierJeeper

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Those NTK ones from Autozone are fine. It seems like every year KJ got different ones, so if that's what it says for your 03, go for it. The down stream one I replaced was $35 from O'Reillys for an NTK. You don't need mopar, just get NTK.

I'd replace just the one. Your KJ has 80k on it right? Mine didn't need one till 155k. My LR3 is at 160k with all the originals. It should go easy, just do it with the engine hot and get the O2 socket. Put a breaker bar in it and it's good to go. I want to say I might have sprayed PB blaster on it before removal but in hindsight that sounds a little bit dumb. The downstream ones (especially the driver's side) is easy to get to. Here's the socket I got for it:
Lisle 12390 Tool - Fuel System Tools

No problem on the help, it's what we're here for. Even when your KJ is fixed, stick around, pretty soon you'll have a lift and man tires on it. :D
 

Concerned

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So would the left side bank be downstream? If so should I just do both downstream at the same time?
 

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Left side is driver's side (aka bank 1). Right is passenger side aka bank 2. Upstream and down stream refer to pre catalytic converter and post catalytic converter. Is yours saying upstream or downstream?
 

Concerned

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Left side is driver's side (aka bank 1). Right is passenger side aka bank 2. Upstream and down stream refer to pre catalytic converter and post catalytic converter. Is yours saying upstream or downstream?

Sorry did not mean to sound confusing, I meant whichever it is upstream or downstream would it be better to do the left & right sides of the stream even if only 1 side if defective (2 sensors replaced)? Or would it only make sense to do the 1 effected sensor only. Thanks!
 

Concerned

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I'd just replace the bad one and leave the other 3.

Okay thank you, I am going to pick the sensor up today. I will report back once it is in, could the sensor be contributing to a rough idle on a cold start? I noticed that once I got the car back. Also they are calling me back with the code it threw and also which stream the sensor is. I got a quote from a friend I got some work done through in the past & he quoted me $60 to put the sensor in, I may let him put it in so I wont have to wait for the sensor socket to come in & get it installed ASAP, I have to go through emissions by next week.
 
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HoosierJeeper

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If it's a downstream sensor then I don't really think it could effect idle, as the downstream only monitors for cat efficiency.

$60 is fair, I'd jump on that, especially if you have a deadline.
 

Concerned

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If it's a downstream sensor then I don't really think it could effect idle, as the downstream only monitors for cat efficiency.

$60 is fair, I'd jump on that, especially if you have a deadline.

So it is downstream bank 1, so yea the idle was pretty rough ever since I got it back, I am wondering if there could be another underlying issue there because the idle was pretty smooth before I put it in there?

Just to note I only drove it about 30 miles before I had to put it back in to get the grille painted & front bumper buffed out & hood latch fixed, does the motor have a break in period?
 
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