2003 Jeep Liberty Concerns

[HoosierJeeper]

So it's drivers side post cat. There could be another issue for sure, no idea what. Is the throttle body clean? My LR3 had one hell of a rough idle (used to surge by like 400 RPM), cleaned the TB and it idled like new (after replacing a bunch of different sensors).

It does have a break in period. Everyone has a different opinion. I'd drive it normally (maybe avoid redlining it) and change the oil at 1000 miles (use conventional) and run that till 3000 miles, dump it and then run the oil and interval of your choice after that.

 

[Concerned]

So it's drivers side post cat. There could be another issue for sure, no idea what. Is the throttle body clean? My LR3 had one hell of a rough idle (used to surge by like 400 RPM), cleaned the TB and it idled like new (after replacing a bunch of different sensors).

It does have a break in period. Everyone has a different opinion. I'd drive it normally (maybe avoid redlining it) and change the oil at 1000 miles (use conventional) and run that till 3000 miles, dump it and then run the oil and interval of your choice after that.

So I just spoke with the service center again and they informed me that the codes that were thrown are P0138, P0158, & P0151, the codes were cleared out but today when they re-ran the check there were 3, the first time the code was P0138, I am assuming I should replace both downstream. I was under the impression only 1 code was thrown but there were 3, the service center informed me all 3 codes directly point to both downstream sensors. If you have any insight it would be appreciated, thanks!

I am guessing that when they replaced the engine the sensors had to be removed & put back in? I am wondering if they did not possibly re-connect the harness all the way, or would that throw a different code?

Regardless I am going to pick up the sensors now and having my friend put them in for $60, thanks!

 

[HoosierJeeper]

I just looked those codes up and the PO151 is actually an upstream code. Something seems really weird that all would fail at once. I actually think you might want to hold up on buying the sensors and have the shop/friend scan it and look at the live data, the sensors might be ok but something else might be causing the issue (exhaust leak or the wiring harness)

 

[Concerned]

I just looked those codes up and the PO151 is actually an upstream code. Something seems really weird that all would fail at once. I actually think you might want to hold up on buying the sensors and have the shop/friend scan it and look at the live data, the sensors might be ok but something else might be causing the issue (exhaust leak or the wiring harness)

Dang it is actually with a friend right now and I have both downstream sensors in the car ready for replacement, I just called him & he said he plans to put in the sensors in the next half hr. So you think this seems improbably that they would all be failing at the same time? The service center told me all 3 codes were downstream but I would not put it passed them to mislead me. Thanks!

Edit: Just called my friend & he is holding off on any work, I am taking it back to the service center so they can do what you told me & monitor the live data & pin point if there is another underlying issue, thank you so much as you may of just saved me some money! I will update you once I get word back from the service center. Honestly before I took it to the service center initially I NEVER had any major problems & it amazes me how things just keep popping up left & right.

Service center has my jeep now, waiting on the results of the tests.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

No problem! I've learned many times over it's less expensive to diagnose something properly than to fire up the parts cannon!

If they worked before the swap, there's no reason they shouldn't now.

 

[Concerned]

No problem! I've learned many times over it's less expensive to diagnose something properly than to fire up the parts cannon!

If they worked before the swap, there's no reason they shouldn't now.

So good news, when they reviewed the live data today they informed me the fuel trim and something else was off, they are doing something called a full drive cycle where they drive the car, let it sit for 8 hours, then finish the configuration. They informed me that this is something that happens with a new engine, I am not convinced that this is something that can be easily overseen the first time and don't feel I should of had to fight to get this done, I feel it should of been done the first time & I should have my jeep back now. Thanks again for recommending this as I almost had my friend throw those sensors in!

 

[HoosierJeeper]

I haven't heard of that but it's worth a shot! Keep us posted.

 

[JeepJeepster]

Not to throw a wrench in the situation but my two downstream sensors went bad at near the same time. So soon that I didnt have time to order one sensor before the other went bad.

Didn't have a code for the upstream sensors though...

 

[Conundrum2006]

That’s weird. The computer does reset and relearn because it was disconnected so long during engine work, but full drive cycle I would think is from cold first start up to operating temp with the transmission at operating temperature too, like highway driving.. that’s just normal relearning as far as I know.
I wonder if the found something lose or unplugged, and reset the computer to clear code and get it to relearn the settings. I don’t think resetting the computer will help unless there was something else they fixed, the shop may be assuming it had old codes stored in the computer.
I never looked into jeep but our f150 does have a relearning procedure, so many minutes idling in Park, then neutral, then with ac on, then being driven relearn the Ford PCM (or something like this) , I never checked out the jeep pcm relearning recommendation.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[ltd02]

I had the engine and battery out of my 02 for about three months and it ran fine after I put it all back together. Never considered a relearn. That was the JTEC computer though. Not sure if this 03 has that or the NGC.

 

[tjkj2002]

If you disconnect the battery or clear codes(or "keep alive" memory like in Ford's) it takes 1 drive cycle but not always since many "monitors" need to run and most need specific conditions to run.The TCM is constantly "re-learning".Some vehicles have a actual "drive cycle" and sometimes you can force them to run regardless if the specific conditions are met or not but Jeeps are not one that have a specific drive cycle.

O2 sensor monitors(once the heaters are active) and misfire monitors run 100% of the time.The O2 sensor monitor will only report faults once the engine is shut down.The misfire monitor will only pop a code on the second trip.The EVAP monitor can take up to 2 weeks to run.


I did not follow the whole thread but if you were burning oil at a good rate you really need to change all 4 O2 sensors and depending on length of time expect to be replacing the cats also.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

If you disconnect the battery or clear codes(or "keep alive" memory like in Ford's) it takes 1 drive cycle but not always since many "monitors" need to run and most need specific conditions to run.The TCM is constantly "re-learning".Some vehicles have a actual "drive cycle" and sometimes you can force them to run regardless if the specific conditions are met or not but Jeeps are not one that have a specific drive cycle.

O2 sensor monitors(once the heaters are active) and misfire monitors run 100% of the time.The O2 sensor monitor will only report faults once the engine is shut down.The misfire monitor will only pop a code on the second trip.The EVAP monitor can take up to 2 weeks to run.


I did not follow the whole thread but if you were burning oil at a good rate you really need to change all 4 O2 sensors and depending on length of time expect to be replacing the cats also.

Cliff notes: Had a nice running baby KJ (80k miles), took it for an oil change at the dealer, didn't put drain plug on, killed engine, paid $1300 for a new engine from Jeep, now getting O2 codes and running rough

 

[Concerned]

If you disconnect the battery or clear codes(or "keep alive" memory like in Ford's) it takes 1 drive cycle but not always since many "monitors" need to run and most need specific conditions to run.The TCM is constantly "re-learning".Some vehicles have a actual "drive cycle" and sometimes you can force them to run regardless if the specific conditions are met or not but Jeeps are not one that have a specific drive cycle.

O2 sensor monitors(once the heaters are active) and misfire monitors run 100% of the time.The O2 sensor monitor will only report faults once the engine is shut down.The misfire monitor will only pop a code on the second trip.The EVAP monitor can take up to 2 weeks to run.


I did not follow the whole thread but if you were burning oil at a good rate you really need to change all 4 O2 sensors and depending on length of time expect to be replacing the cats also.

HoosierJeeper summed it up pretty nicely, basically they tried to talk me into thinking they could fix the issues with dropping the oil pan and replacing the oil pump but that was not the issue at all so in between them admitting it needed a new engine I picked it up a total of 4-6 times and broke down within 2 miles of their service center with the oil light coming on twice and overheating twice and knocking/ticking coming from the engine, one of which I had to get it towed. So my jeep was not driven very far in between the engine replacement and when the issues started.

 

[Concerned]

I wanted to post a update since I have my Jeep back now.

So I got it back today & drove about 80 miles & not only is the rough idle gone but no check engine light! The service center said something about the fuel trim being adjusted but did not go into detail, it drives better then ever so I am happy about that. I now have to take back the 2 downstream sensors I purchased thanks to HoosierJeeper stopping me from having my friend put them in just in time (thanks!).

I noticed the front bumper has been buffed which had oil stains on it (I think inleast that is what it looked like) but it is still lightly scuffed up with a few light scratches as well, the front bumper was just replaced and painted in December right before it went over for a oil change & it all began. I am debating on pursuing the bumper at this point since I just got my Jeep back and things are just starting to settle down again for me, but it still remains I am pissed about it. I may call and pursue it but the front grille which had deep scratches in it was painted and is fine now. Thanks everyone!

 

[HoosierJeeper]

Glad to hear things are finally looking up for you!

 

[Concerned]

Glad to hear things are finally looking up for you!

I have put about 200 miles on my Jeep & still not check engine light & the rough idle is gone & all is well, my Jeep is driving like new & better then before all this happened, thanks again especially HoosierJeeper for the guidance on this & everyone else for the advice! I am hoping to have my Jeep for a long time after all the work was done lol! The final work order came to $6200+!

 

[HoosierJeeper]

So happy to hear it. Keep us posted and hang around, soon you'll be lifting it to make it ride better!

 

[JasonJ]

Hi,There is no problem with engine if there's not engine block damage, because The engine could be rebuilt...

You didn't read this thread, did you? That's a rather out of context reply that doesn't really apply here- at least not now that the OP has a new replacement engine in and has been driving it for over 200 miles.

 

[Concerned]

So my Jeep has been great since I have gotten it back but since I have gotten it back I noticed a slight quiet squeaking noise when driving on 1 way roads with cars on both side or a jersey wall & today when reversing it almost sounds like seagulls squalling underneath. I called she shop and they agreed to look at it next week but any idea what this could be? I had a friend who is also a mechanic look at it and listen under and said it almost sounds like its coming from the center & could be the U Joint. I also wanted to note that in addition to replacing the engine when I first got my Jeep back it would rumble in first gear starting out so they did something with the transfer case or cable (not sure which) and that was corrected before I picked it up the final time. Could the sounds happening now be related to something they did? Thanks for any advice!

 

[Leeann]

Look at the front driveshaft CV joint. If the boot is bad and there's grease flung everywhere, you could be getting noise from that. Cheap and easy to replace with a new joint from driveshaftparts.com