ptsb5a
Full Access Member
Alright, so the grinding noise at my feet turned out to be a hub. I replaced it but never took the time to take any pics. I felt guilty so I ordered another hub and replaced the other side. This time I took pics. So here goes.
Just so you don't think I'm full of crap, here's the invoice. $170 from the dealer. I figured if the OEM part lasted 80K miles, another would be just as good. I shopped around, the SKF part was $308 :mfr_omg:from the NAPA here in Cold Lake.
And the second new hub.
First things first, find a suitable place to work on the KJ. I have access to a pretty well equiped shop. Perks of being in the military, and seeing as I volunteer to manage the thing, I have my own key. So, at about 10 pm today I went to swap the hub.
I put my KJ up on a hoist. Removed the front wheel and was about here...
Remove the brake caliper and hang it from some wire or something. Don't let it dangle from the hose.
Next, remove the two 21mm bolts that hold the brake caliper adapter in place.
If you remove it slowly the pads will stay in place and be easier to put back on the knuckle when the time comes.
Now, with the rotor out of the way, remove the 36mm axle retaining nut.
Great, now you're ready for the little E Torx bit and a couple of extensions. The hub CAN be removed and replaced without removing the steering knuckle.
With all three bolts removed, fasten a hub puller if you have one, to the hub face. It's a giant slide hammer and makes yanking the hub uber easy. If you do not have a hub puller, a couple of good whacks against the side of the hub flange (with a brass drift or a punch) on the knuckle will be enough to break it free and you can pry it out. Use a pry bar on both sides and rock it out of the knuckle. If the hub is rusted into place, you will have to remove the knuckle and press the hub out.
All it took was a couple of solid whacks with the slide hammer to get the hub out. Now I'm staring at this bit, a hole where the hub used to be.
And this trainwreck of a hub was sitting on the floor.
The hub wasn't to beat up but it was on it's way out. I figured that swapping both at the same time was the best method of ensuring that I didn't have any trouble during a couple of the longish road trips I have planned this winter.
New hub is in...
During reassembly be certain to pay attention to the torque specs....
hub bolts x3... 96ft/lbs
axle nut ........100ft/lbs
brake caliper adapter... 100ft/lbs
caliper bolts 11ft/lbs
Enjoy.
Just so you don't think I'm full of crap, here's the invoice. $170 from the dealer. I figured if the OEM part lasted 80K miles, another would be just as good. I shopped around, the SKF part was $308 :mfr_omg:from the NAPA here in Cold Lake.
You must be registered for see images attach
And the second new hub.
You must be registered for see images attach
First things first, find a suitable place to work on the KJ. I have access to a pretty well equiped shop. Perks of being in the military, and seeing as I volunteer to manage the thing, I have my own key. So, at about 10 pm today I went to swap the hub.
You must be registered for see images attach
I put my KJ up on a hoist. Removed the front wheel and was about here...
You must be registered for see images attach
Remove the brake caliper and hang it from some wire or something. Don't let it dangle from the hose.
You must be registered for see images attach
Next, remove the two 21mm bolts that hold the brake caliper adapter in place.
You must be registered for see images attach
If you remove it slowly the pads will stay in place and be easier to put back on the knuckle when the time comes.
Now, with the rotor out of the way, remove the 36mm axle retaining nut.
You must be registered for see images attach
Great, now you're ready for the little E Torx bit and a couple of extensions. The hub CAN be removed and replaced without removing the steering knuckle.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
With all three bolts removed, fasten a hub puller if you have one, to the hub face. It's a giant slide hammer and makes yanking the hub uber easy. If you do not have a hub puller, a couple of good whacks against the side of the hub flange (with a brass drift or a punch) on the knuckle will be enough to break it free and you can pry it out. Use a pry bar on both sides and rock it out of the knuckle. If the hub is rusted into place, you will have to remove the knuckle and press the hub out.
You must be registered for see images attach
All it took was a couple of solid whacks with the slide hammer to get the hub out. Now I'm staring at this bit, a hole where the hub used to be.
You must be registered for see images attach
And this trainwreck of a hub was sitting on the floor.
You must be registered for see images attach
The hub wasn't to beat up but it was on it's way out. I figured that swapping both at the same time was the best method of ensuring that I didn't have any trouble during a couple of the longish road trips I have planned this winter.
New hub is in...
You must be registered for see images attach
During reassembly be certain to pay attention to the torque specs....
hub bolts x3... 96ft/lbs
axle nut ........100ft/lbs
brake caliper adapter... 100ft/lbs
caliper bolts 11ft/lbs
Enjoy.
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