icarl
Full Access Member
I see Al has a 4" lift kit now. Has anyone tried it?
http://jeepinbyal.com/4inSTDliftkit37L.aspx
http://jeepinbyal.com/4inSTDliftkit37L.aspx
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You need to "cut" the CV's so they survive and have added range of motion.Real easy to do,messy but easy.too tall i think i would fall over!!! =D
wonder what "small cut" they are talking about.... =D
You might want to rethink some of your views,I'm sitting at 3.75" of lift and have not modified my CV's and no problems,and have removed my vib wieghts on the rear diff(the KJ balls) and wheel alot here in the mountains of CO on trails that Others have pleaded not to take a KJ on,with zero problems.You're not looking close enough. There are a full set of new longer upper control arms also in the lift that have bigger, stronger and have greasable ball joints unlike the stockers. Seperately they are over $300 to put on the 2 1/2 inch lifts to help pull your stock geometry back into the range you need to do a good wheel alignment. The ball joint boots also don't hit the springs at full droop and hold up well off road as tested by many of us.
In the back without the part that goes on the yoke you'd never be able to drive the rig due to massive vibration in the drive shaft and the rear wheels so far forward they'd be in the front parts of the rear wheelwell all the time and tearing off your flares.
Take the time to take a peek under your rig, this 4 inch lift and the 6 inch to follow have a lot of engineering in them you haven't noticed. Just raising the front and rear of your rig off the ground, let'er droop and watching what all happens can teach you a lot.
You're not looking close enough. There are a full set of new longer upper control arms also in the lift that have bigger, stronger and have greasable ball joints unlike the stockers. Seperately they are over $300 to put on the 2 1/2 inch lifts to help pull your stock geometry back into the range you need to do a good wheel alignment. The ball joint boots also don't hit the springs at full droop and hold up well off road as tested by many of us.
In the back without the part that goes on the yoke you'd never be able to drive the rig due to massive vibration in the drive shaft and the rear wheels so far forward they'd be in the front parts of the rear wheelwell all the time and tearing off your flares.
Take the time to take a peek under your rig, this 4 inch lift and the 6 inch to follow have a lot of engineering in them you haven't noticed. Just raising the front and rear of your rig off the ground, let'er droop and watching what all happens can teach you a lot.
Some days I love my job.I run a CNC lathe. However, it's gonna be a long while before I can even consider either of Al's new lifts. I might do a 6" but it wouldn't be til after I've paid off my KJ and have something else for a DD.
In the real world, you would have it done as I said earlier.