plastic fender rivets

[NJallDAY]

Are the rivets holding the fenders on prone to breaking during removal? I plan on taking all m plastics off tomorrow to coat them with bed liner and just want to make sure i know what im getting into lol

 

[tommudd]

Yes pretty much
they get old and brittle just like Grandpa

 

[hectikart]

Are the rivets holding the fenders on prone to breaking during removal? I plan on taking all m plastics off tomorrow to coat them with bed liner and just want to make sure i know what im getting into lol

Yea, I had a feeling that if I took mine off I would have a broken mess to deal with getting them back on, so I just taped everything off...I'm sure taking them off would have been better, but they still came out really well.

 

[dude1116]

Mine aren't even on. The fenders are only held on by the clips. I just recently noticed this. I'm looking to alleviate this soon...I guess by front end has been taken apart! :shrug:

 

[NJallDAY]

Yea, I had a feeling that if I took mine off I would have a broken mess to deal with getting them back on, so I just taped everything off...I'm sure taking them off would have been better, but they still came out really well.

I think ill do the same. How much prep did you do? I have a palm sander im guna use, im just not sure how much scuff is enough

 

[hectikart]

I think ill do the same. How much prep did you do? I have a palm sander im guna use, im just not sure how much scuff is enough

All I did was wash it, remove all the loose dirt and crap and dry it good...but required prep may vary depending on what you're using. I used POR15, went on no problem and has been fine.

 

[NJallDAY]

Im going to use the better of the duplicolors, i called the product suport and was told light scuffing should be ok. But the can say just make sure its clean. Gotta figure its adhering to clear coated paint on a new truck bed so as long as the plastic is clean i would think its the same concept. Although the phrase "i would think" has gotten me into some trouble before lol

Edit: and what about the bumpers? Are they fastened with screw or the smae rivets?

 

[dude1116]

Im going to use the better of the duplicolors, i called the product suport and was told light scuffing should be ok. But the can say just make sure its clean. Gotta figure its adhering to clear coated paint on a new truck bed so as long as the plastic is clean i would think its the same concept. Although the phrase "i would think" has gotten me into some trouble before lol

Edit: and what about the bumpers? Are they fastened with screw or the smae rivets?

Same rivets on the bottom. Different type of rivet (the one's with the center core that you can pull out) on the top by the grille.

 

[NJallDAY]

Same rivets on the bottom. Different type of rivet (the one's with the center core that you can pull out) on the top by the grille.

Looks like its all staying on lol. I go a big ass roll of plastic drop cloth so ill just wrap everything up. If you guys had to guess what would you think the square footage of all visable surfaces for both bumpers, fenders and door strips? I have enough bed liner to do 2 generous coats over about 15 sf

 

[hectikart]

It will probably be close but I think you should be able to get 2 coats out of that. I would guess the front and rear bumpers are roughly 5sf each...leaves you with 5 for the fenders and door strips.

It took me almost a quart of POR15 to do one heavy coat of everything.

 

[NJallDAY]

Ill see how much coverage i can stretch it out to. I can always go get another can. Still trying to decide if i should risk taking everything off. Decisions decisions.......

 

[NJallDAY]

All done. Came out pretty good, i have a few drips i need to smooth out. I used the spray and im kinda kicking my self about it now. Ill need to get the roll on any way make it all even.

 

[WickedBruce]

Pics! I wanted to do the same thing this weekend...but I didnt get new rivets.

 

[NJallDAY]

Ill post some pics shortly. I really wanted to take everything off, it just comes out better that way, but i didnt want to risk breaking the rivets. A little note of advice... if you use the spray make sure you remove evrything as its really hard to control how much your putting down and end up with runs all over. A few light coates will come out alot better. That being said the roll on is much easier to make it all smooth and looking good. And you can leave it all on an just tape off the edges, instead of masking everything to avoid over pray

 

[NJallDAY]

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The strips on the door came out best, nice straight line for an even spray. The front came out the worst. Alot of runs and high spots, i put way to much on each coat. What i think ill do to correct it is get the roll on can and see if i can sand some it down ( stuffs pretty solid so ill have to be creative) an then use the roller to build it up until its smooth. And hopefully it dries the same color as the spray, i have some left over spray so i could just do a little touch up. The back came out good, a little un-even as far as color goes but not my biggest concern right now. If your going to do this take your time. Rushing through it will only require you to repair it. If your not good with a rattle can just go with the roll on i really wish i did at first.

 

[Elmer]

I think sanding it and going over it with the roll-on should fix up those drips. Rattle-canning takes a lot of discipline not to cover the entire surface in one coat. Multiple light coats spread out over a long period of time is the best way to go to ensure you don't spray too much. Took me awhile to make myself do it.

 

[NJallDAY]

Yea im usually good with a can. But i very rarely go at it when the parts on the car. I like to lay it out on horses so i can get a good angle. Most of it built up right at the outside bend, not really sure how to correct my technique.

 

[Luke]

Elmer gave you the key ... light coats ... you can spray down the finest coats all day long until you reach your target ... if you let it dry in between you will never have runs like that.

Patience is the key ... after good prep!

You can do it!

 

[Ry' N Jen]

Another key tip is to make sure you keep a consistent distance between the spray nozzle and the object you are spraying.
Just keep practicing. Spray areas that you cannot see, like the bottom of your vehicle as an example; that way if you do get a run or sag you won't see it!
Before you know it you'll become really proficient at applying paints, clear coats, etc.
As far as now with what you've got, using a roller and wait until the paint is slightly tacky and then give it another slightly wet coat and you'll be able to hide all the imperfections.

 

[NJallDAY]

Another key tip is to make sure you keep a consistent distance between the spray nozzle and the object you are spraying.
Just keep practicing. Spray areas that you cannot see, like the bottom of your vehicle as an example; that way if you do get a run or sag you won't see it!
Before you know it you'll become really proficient at applying paints, clear coats, etc.
As far as now with what you've got, using a roller and wait until the paint is slightly tacky and then give it another slightly wet coat and you'll be able to hide all the imperfections.

I think it is a distance issue... i usually paint with it whateve it may be on horses. It the bending around to follow the contour that gets me into trouble