Recent content by seafish

This afternoon, I jacked up Giddyup and crawled underneath in order to replace her original Crankshaft Position Sensor that MIGHT have caused the warm crank/no start situation which happened out of the blue a few weeks ago though has not repeated since. Replacing the CPS from underneath was...

Nice work!!!

Where did you get the thing that you did? ;)

Thanks for the advice!!! I cant find the Bosch here and the even the boutique import parts house that I use and trust sells the Standard Motor Products crankshaft sensor. I have been somewhat impressed with the quality of SMP ignition parts and sensors that I have been using so far. Totally...

Cleaning up after the repair also had me wondering if Mr. Wagner might somehow be related to Mr. Weller --

Confirmed that the soft clunk I heard was the likely the intake throttle opening up after shut down...still not sure about why she started up right after that happened ... unless the "cooling down" time for the CPS aligned or overlapped with the intake reopening. That said, I didn't even know...

Here a few pix of the soldered, shrink wrapped and loomed fix ... only took about an hour which also included brushing down the dirt from the top of the differential and surrounding area first, so it wouldn't fall in my eyes while working underneath and upside down. If I had actually PLANNED...

Today I replaced the rear differential speed sensor in order to keep the odometer from intermittently dropping out. While I had inspected the sensor wiring just last year and did NOT find any obvious problems with it, and even though it still appeared to be in good working condition even now...

PLEASE clarify as this is important to me right now as I am planning a day trip with my daughter too and do not have time to buy and replace the CPS right now. ...it seems that you are saying that if in fact it is the CPS causing a no start, the engine will NOT simply quit while driving down...

ALSO, wouldn't an intermittent failing CPS set a DTC ??

A guy on LostJeeps is suggesting that the clunk I heard is likely the intake throttle opening up under spring pressure after closing on key off for engine shutdown. I will verify this later today by starting the engine, then shutting down and listening for the sound that I heard when the engine...

Sometimes its the little things that make a difference... Today I was able to remove the drivers side interior door panel without breaking anything. :cool: Then I removed, took apart and cleaned, then reinstalled the mirror adjustment control so that all the buttons worked again.

^^^ OK, I got it now...You guys are saying that, at least on a KK, with a bad SKIM signal it will simply restart immediately and then keep dying after 3 seconds unitl the SKIM is resolved. Anybody know if the KJ CRD SKIM behavior is different then that??

Pix ... or didn't happen!! ;)

Thanks for clarifying that the key fob battery cannot be the problem. Still wondering what the soft "clunk" that I heard might have been and if it is likely related to the crank/no start condition as she started up right after I heard the noise. Also still wondering if the SKIM activating...