Broken top strut mount? Please help

I just upgraded my full suspension. I haven’t even hit any trails and my left front started making a lot of noise. I got the vehicle towed to my house and it appears as though my top strut mount may have broken. I’ve loosened up everything but because the strut is no longer compressed I can’t seem to get it out. Any help/tips would be appreciated. Thanks

Yikes! That’s really bad, and dangerous. You might need to seek professional help for this.

I was thinking I could separate the strut from the clevis and possibly get it out that way but the strut just spins since nothing is holding the top now. The only thing I can think of is possibly removing the upper control arm and use a set of spring compressors but I don’t even know if they’ll fit up in the wheel well area. I’d really rather not drop my lower control arm if I don’t absolutely have to since I just replaced those as well and had an alignment done. Definitely not a fun start to this jeep project!

It's going to need setting up again anyway so don't get to worried about that. Spring compressors or angle iron and threaded rod look like the only way forward from here, I'd want links top and bottom to stop the iron slipping out and letting the spring free, making the angle into a box around the spring.

Most likely I’m going to need to align it again anyhow, so do you think I should just remove the lower control arm and get it out that way? The spring is fully decompressed as it sits so there should be virtually no danger of getting injured this way unless I’m overlooking something!

I take it there is no room to slip the clevis off?

If it's not tensioned then just undo the bottom mount and drop it out. Tyres are a lot more expensive than alignment so I would always check a car after I have played with the suspension.

Luke said:

I take it there is no room to slip the clevis off?

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I took the bolt out, but because the strut is just “floating” now, I cant seem to separate the the clevis from the strut and even if I was able to, I don’t think I would have enough room to lower it enough to separate them unless I unbolted the lower control arm.

KJowner said:

If it's not tensioned then just undo the bottom mount and drop it out. Tyres are a lot more expensive than alignment so I would always check a car after I have played with the suspension.

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Yeah, unfortunately I think that’s what I’m gonna have to do. A $43 part is now costing me close to $200 more plus several hours of time. Thanks KYB!

02projectkj said:

I took the bolt out, but because the strut is just “floating” now, I cant seem to separate the the clevis from the strut and even if I was able to, I don’t think I would have enough room to lower it enough to separate them unless I unbolted the lower control arm.

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It looks like you may have enough room but it could be the camera angle… the clevis can be opened up with a little force…. It won’t hurt it.

You can use a ratchet strap to the opposite control arm to pry the LCA down without unbolting it… the bushings will allow for a bit of rotation.

Thanks for the replies. I’m open to trying anything at this point. This is my DD so I kinda need it operational. Haha

Managed to get the struts out and back in without a spring compressor or removing the lower control arm. Been too long to remember the exact details. I have no doubt the knuckle was separated. Maybe jack it up higher? maybe remove the sway bar?

Best photo I have of my coilovers after reassembly. I used the original parts. You might want to check the other side while you’re at it.

klc said:

Best photo I have of my coilovers after reassembly. I used the original parts. You might want to check the other side while you’re at it.

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Definitely will do!

u2slow said:

Managed to get the struts out and back in without a spring compressor or removing the lower control arm. Been too long to remember the exact details. I have no doubt the knuckle was separated. Maybe jack it up higher? maybe remove the sway bar?

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It’s no problem at all with the struts assembled but my problem is the top mount broke which effectively released the compression on the spring allowing the strut to fully extend in place. Only separating the lower control arm from the knuckle will work.

klc said:

Best photo I have of my coilovers after reassembly. I used the original parts. You might want to check the other side while you’re at it.

You must be registered for see images attach

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KYB seems to be the only manufacturer I’ve seen that doesn’t include the washer with the top mount. They include the required 4 nuts but not the washer…I don’t get it.

02projectkj said:

It’s no problem at all with the struts assembled but my problem is the top mount broke which effectively released the compression on the spring allowing the strut to fully extend in place. Only separating the lower control arm from the knuckle will work.

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Makes sense.

What I do know is I didn't take the control arm off the cradle because that's the alignment adjustment I paid for!

u2slow said:

Makes sense.

What I do know is I didn't take the control arm off the cradle because that's the alignment adjustment I paid for!

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Yes, that is correct!

klc said:

Best photo I have of my coilovers after reassembly. I used the original parts. You might want to check the other side while you’re at it.

You must be registered for see images attach

Click to expand...

Yeah, you either have to disassemble your old struts or go buy new washers since KYB apparently doesn’t include the all the REQUIRED parts…pretty stupid.

So here are a few pics of the top mounts and the damage that occurred. KYB doesn’t include the required top washer with these mounts so make sure you buy new ones (I’d recommend grade 8 or better) before installing. I learned the hard way and have now had to do the job multiple times.