So I have an 06 2.8l crd love the vehicle but I ran into this nightmare I'm trying to solve right now. I broke down an hour from home last week and haven't been able to get the jeep to start since. To start I replaced the fuel filter, starter, and battery. The jeep cranks for about 30 seconds before completely killing a fully charged brand new battery and the cranking is very lack luster if I do say so myself. It will sputter a few times but it won't do it consistent enough to start. My questions are 1. Why is there so much draw it is killing a 800cca battery within 30 seconds of cranking. 2 why wouldn't it start if I can see that there is fuel pressure at the high side of the injection pump
2.8l crd start issues.
- Thread starter cmf0205
- Start date
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NOT enough info here but it mostly sounds like it could be a bad crank postion sensor!!!
Did you also check for actual fault codes before throwing parts at it??
If it's drawing enough to kill a battery in 30 seconds and is cranking slowly it sounds like it's part sized. Or you have a major short circuit somewhere, I would expect something to be getting very hot with that much current! Look around the battery, alternator and starter for any issues and (carefully) feel for any hot spots.
What is the coolant level and is it still pink and fresh, what does the oil look like? Is the gearbox full of oil?
Try putting the transfer box in neutral and see what happens when you crank it, if it spins faster then I'd look at the torque converter, if there is no change then take the oil filler cap off, shine a light in and watch the camshaft while someone cranks it - no movement = broken cam belt.
If that looks OK then it's time to pull the injectors, once they are out, get someone to spin it over while you watch to see if it spits anything out of the holes and notice the cranking speed, without compression it should spin over quickly.
Next step would be a compression test to see what's happening in the cylinders.
What is the coolant level and is it still pink and fresh, what does the oil look like? Is the gearbox full of oil?
Try putting the transfer box in neutral and see what happens when you crank it, if it spins faster then I'd look at the torque converter, if there is no change then take the oil filler cap off, shine a light in and watch the camshaft while someone cranks it - no movement = broken cam belt.
If that looks OK then it's time to pull the injectors, once they are out, get someone to spin it over while you watch to see if it spits anything out of the holes and notice the cranking speed, without compression it should spin over quickly.
Next step would be a compression test to see what's happening in the cylinders.
Had no fault codes but now I do I'm assuming because of the lack of voltage in the system because of the battery draining so quickly. How would a crank sensor cause so much draw when trying to turn it over though. And what's the procedure to test it.
DadOSix
Full Access Member
Sounding seized - or a spun bearing, etc.
Find whatever socket fits the crank bolt, get a breaker bar in there and turn the engine by hand with the bar and socket. Turn only in the direction the engine normally rotates. Does it turn easily all the way thru 2 cycles? Hard spots? Relatively easy spots?
I’d do this before throwing any more parts at it. Lack-luster cranking (on a new starter) shows either a bad battery or internal engine damage, imo.
Good tips above from KJOwner!
Find whatever socket fits the crank bolt, get a breaker bar in there and turn the engine by hand with the bar and socket. Turn only in the direction the engine normally rotates. Does it turn easily all the way thru 2 cycles? Hard spots? Relatively easy spots?
I’d do this before throwing any more parts at it. Lack-luster cranking (on a new starter) shows either a bad battery or internal engine damage, imo.
Good tips above from KJOwner!
sounds like oil pump shit the bed, or no oil!
Possibly, drawing that much current isn't a good sign!
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