Here a few pix of the soldered, shrink wrapped and loomed fix ... only took about an hour which also included brushing down the dirt from the top of the differential and surrounding area first, so it wouldn't fall in my eyes while working underneath and upside down. If I had actually PLANNED...
Today I replaced the rear differential speed sensor in order to keep the odometer from intermittently dropping out.
While I had inspected the sensor wiring just last year and did NOT find any obvious problems with it, and even though it still appeared to be in good working condition even now...
PLEASE clarify as this is important to me right now as I am planning a day trip with my daughter too and do not have time to buy and replace the CPS right now.
...it seems that you are saying that if in fact it is the CPS causing a no start, the engine will NOT simply quit while driving down...
A guy on LostJeeps is suggesting that the clunk I heard is likely the intake throttle opening up under spring pressure after closing on key off for engine shutdown. I will verify this later today by starting the engine, then shutting down and listening for the sound that I heard when the engine...
Sometimes its the little things that make a difference...
Today I was able to remove the drivers side interior door panel without breaking anything. :cool:
Then I removed, took apart and cleaned, then reinstalled the mirror adjustment control so that all the buttons worked again.
^^^
OK, I got it now...You guys are saying that, at least on a KK, with a bad SKIM signal it will simply restart immediately and then keep dying after 3 seconds unitl the SKIM is resolved.
Anybody know if the KJ CRD SKIM behavior is different then that??
Thanks for clarifying that the key fob battery cannot be the problem.
Still wondering what the soft "clunk" that I heard might have been and if it is likely related to the crank/no start condition as she started up right after I heard the noise.
Also still wondering if the SKIM activating...
Earlier today, I started Giddyup (fully warmed up from running many errands) and was about to put her in gear and drive off and she suddenly died...just cutoff ... she would still crank hard but NOT restart.
As she has never done anything like it before, I was startled and while I did see the...
I use an air compressor with a narrow fan tip along with the vacuum cleaner, running them tip to tip, for deeper carpet cleaning that doesnt require wetting things down.
Did you check the tire pressure in the spare that you put on??
If it is much different then the other tires, then the ABS on that wheel will be sensing a different speed and might be activating the module.
So it looks like if I can isolate the wire that goes to #87A (normally closed) on the ASD relay and then extend and switch it from inside the car that would do the trick.
That, or simply pull the ASD relay while Im parked in the city...like KJowner already suggested. ;)
Hmmm ... having trouble finding the park safety interlock switch in the FSM ... of course there are a LOT of references to parking BRAKE switches, and neutral safety switches for manual transmissions, but not for the parking interlock...at least that I could find.
Im sure I could find it by...
I like that idea alot...the Park/start switch must be located in the AT shift wiring bundle right in the center console...could tap it and hide a switch from there pretty easily !!!
If it is the serpentine belt, then when it’s off for replacement, you’re gonna wanna check each and every pulley (except the crankshaft) that it runs around for excessive looseness or roughness or tightness while spinning them by hand since they eventually go bad and will lead to belt wear...
Dont just pour water on it...use a spray bottle set to "stream" for more accuracy around the pulleys.
The soapy water temporarily lubes the belt and squeak will go away if the belt is bad.
If it doesnt go away, then something else is causing the squeak.
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