Are we talking about the whole diff? Or the internal carrier 'case' that the ring gear bolts to?
The latter item may fit all kinds of Dana 30 variants. The KJ one does anyway.
I have it on good account that the North American CRD (only offered '05-06) were 3.73 ratio.
What I know of the 30A r&p is the pinion shank is fatter, i.e. larger ID (and OD) bearings. I have wondered if sleeves can be pressed onto a std D30 pinion and substituted.
I thought I read that the KK...
Longer arms may help, but at some point you will need a longer driveshaft, or a driveshaft spacer. Basic right-angle triangle geometry.
I did the JBA tri-link extension years ago. It tilted the pinion up some. Nearly all the ujoint angle is at the tcase. I thought it would be a problem, and...
I put Rancho 5000 series in the front of ours. That could be the model number. I put them in with the diesel springs. They have done the job for 4? 5? years now i think.
I don't get the 'pre-loading' critique with spacers. Spacer on top pushes the wheel hub further away from the body. That's lift. What's the pre-load? The vehicle's own weight?
As soon as I added the Teraflex top spacer, the geometry was too far off to be aligned, at all. Aftermarket control...
Managed to get the struts out and back in without a spring compressor or removing the lower control arm. Been too long to remember the exact details. I have no doubt the knuckle was separated. Maybe jack it up higher? maybe remove the sway bar?
The theme around here is a blown trans or a major engine problem (overheat, blown HG, cracked head, etc.
Hers got to 305k km before dropping a valve seat. Dealt with it and moved on. Otherwise it's been basic maintenance. It is a 6spd manual. Something I repaired initially (reverse kicked out...
Several folks on here poo-poo'ed the RRO's arms too. They have been on our KJ for over 10 years now with no issues.
This Deeke's arm has greasable bushings which I like.
I really tire of this 'best' fanclub affliction that casts hollow fear and doubt on competing products. Choice is part of...
They are probably chevy balljoints that fit 10-15 model years of half-ton pickups. Thats what they are for my RRO arms. My balljoints have over 10 years on them now.
Our KJ had some beefy brackets for a tow bar (quick release). Stock bumper unmodified. Maybe something like that could be used to mount a receiver.
Edit: i think it used the factory tow hook locations.
I ran a Thrush welded muffler on the KJ for several years until it rusted out. Now onto a rockauto stainless thru-flow type.
No jobber tailpipe I jave found is as good as the original so far as good diameter and not rusting away quickly. I used up the first one, and now onto another used one...
The latch is fastened to the lower gate with two nuts over oval holes. You may need to loosen the nuts and slide the latch rearward. Or possibly the nuts have worked loose already and thats why you have the problem.
All I know about the anti-theft (2005) is you have to use the original type key with the fob. Having a generic key cut (off an original) wont start the jeep. The fob has to be in proximity of the ignition/jeep.
The glass latch is probably still closed from pulling the swing door open.
If you know were to poke in there with a screwdriver, you can pop it open pretty easy. If you take off the pastic panel inside, it is really obvious. I believe the metal part below the black plastic "shoe" has to be...
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