No, they got torn up on injector removal.
New injectors didnt show up on time, so I re-used the old ones with that missing. They're kinda wiggly in the bores, but the fuel rail supports them well enough. So far so good.
All this stuff turns in regular 2wd mode. I have driven a lot of highway miles in the winter in part-time 4hi. I reckon the front driveshaft is the weak link; they start to squeak under load.
Don't take this the wrong way... many shops poo-poo the old stuff to make one feel better about paying for the new.
At 306,000km, mine looks pretty decent for what i can see with one head off. Some cross hatch still visible in cylinders. No collapsed lifters. Tensioner and guides on the one...
I will have under $500 into this cyl head change. (Machining and parts.) My machine shop says they wont/dont do complete rebuilt 3.7/4.7 engines anymore.
Pulling the engine from my parts KJ was not a nice experience. I'm happy to avoid it this time.
Got to 306,000km almost 4 weeks ago and dropped a valve seat.
Got the spare head back from machining a couple days ago. 5 thou to clean. Valvetrain back together. Should be getting head bolts and injectors shortly so i can finish up.
I'm sending a head for machining, and carefully pulled out the injectors. The o-rings stayed behind in the bores. Below the green o-ring was a smaller, harder plastic ring. I'm not seeing this part in the o-ring kits.
Any idea where to get this ring? Or do i have to get whole new injectors?
When i was hunting for the KK forks, the wrecking yard would only sell the struts/forks together. The top plate for the KK is different, so cant use them complete in the KJ.
Another cheat is to stuff 2" locknuts between the fork and strut. I've had up to 3 per side in there as my lift evolved. Alternatively, the KK forks are a bit longer and add a little height.
But ultimately, a replacement 'quickstrut' is the proper fix to get back to stock ride height.
"Level" is an opinion on the KJ. The wheel wells are different heights and the body lines are not parallel.
Edit: its also a bit of a teeter-totter game. When you lift the front, the rear typically squats a little.
Longer front bumpstop needed... to compensate for the top spacer. Otherwise the problem is the same as no factory bumpstop; the stock shock would bottom out within itself before the arms/knuckle stops moving.
Edit: doesnt matter if its a top plate or a longer fork. More is more, and the...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.