I'm not familiar with your choice in shocks.
Shocks shouldn't make any rattling noises, providing the bolt fits the eye, and there's no lateral gap between eyelet and mount.
Consider saving the shop a step and take the front diff out yourself. If they are unfamiliar with the KJ, the loose part on the bench will show it's a fairly simple unit.
Maybe 5-10% of them were manual back when we were shopping for 02-07 KJs in 2012.
Seems like anything with a manual trans is more desirable in the used market. If there's no odd noises and shifts all the gears, usually good life left; vs an auto, where they often just quit.
Yes pilot bearing. Get the version with the whole outer 'puck' included. It's easier to install without damage.
I went with an AMS automotive clutch the first time, and M-pact the second. The original nor AMS ever wore out. I had transmission problems and it just seemed foolish to re&re without...
You may want to check the practicality and cost of swapping that AC clutch. I ended up buying the whole compressor - it was cheaper than the clutch alone.
Imho, nothing has changed. "Counterfeit" is just trendy to say now. I lost faith in the aftermarket parts world some 30 years ago. There's 40 brands marketing maybe 5 mfr's parts (or similar horrible ratio). Pricing is all over the place. Warranty often means paying more for the same low...
Everything in the jobber parts market is a copy of OEM. Why 'counterfeit' is a such a concern for many, I don't know.
I buy some of the cheapest parts. It's rare that I get a disappointing lifespan.
I bought my own spare trans. Anyone that has one of these should have a spare.
The guts are worth plenty. Price the shifter tower, and the selector/fork/rail assembly.
"Level" for a KJ is an opinion. The wheel arches are a different height front vs rear.
I'm using 4runner coils in the rear (with a slight trim) and load assist shocks (look like coilovers) to firm it up.
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