'02 Jeep Liberty Limited - Fuse 23 (10 AMP) keeping blowing

[J.Hard90]

Hi,

The drivers side park light, license plate light and rear overhead light (above the tailgate window) does not work when the fuse blows. I would get only a few seconds of power for the lights after installing a new 10 AMP fuse before it blows again. I do not have a tow wire harness installed. I'm not sure if it is a grounding issue or not. I wanted to get some insight as to where the grounds might actually be and if anyone else has had this same issue before.

The brake light & reverse light both work on driver and passenger side.

 

[LibertyTC]

Welcome to the forums.
The wiring diagrams can be found surrounding 8Wa-51-3 and 51-4 http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/2002JeepKJServiceManual.pdf
I would take all the effected bulbs out and then try replacing the fuse to see if it stays good.
Then replace a new bulb one by one- into each socket- (socket hopefully clean and not appearing burnt) in hopes of determining which circuit is causing fuse to blow.

 

[Billwill]

OK so it is Fuse #23 10 Amp.

You have a rear overhead light above the tailgate window? On my 2002 Export CRD that position is for a brake light....is that what you are referring to?

Grounds are not an issue for blowing fuses....+12 volts touching ground will blow a fuse!

When you have downloaded the 2002 Jeep KJ Service manual go to Section 8W for the wiring.

Page 8WA-12-13 shows the important wiring routes.
Different to my Export model!

The Park Relay interest me as the contact inside it swings between ground and +12 volts..a shorted out relay could blow fuses.

Look at the Component Index at the beginning of section 8W and see where this Park Relay is located on the interior fuse panel....Junction Panel...and try swap it over with a similar one nearby. The Relay will be on the rear of the fuse panel.

 

[J.Hard90]

Welcome to the forums.
The wiring diagrams can be found surrounding 8Wa-51-3 and 51-4 http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/2002JeepKJServiceManual.pdf
I would take all the effected bulbs out and then try replacing the fuse to see if it stays good.
Then replace a new bulb one by one- into each socket- (socket hopefully clean and not appearing burnt) in hopes of determining which circuit is causing fuse to blow.

I will give this a shot and get back to you with my results in a few days.

 

[J.Hard90]

What fuse number is blowing?
Under the hood or inside the cabin?

You have a rear overhead light above the tailgate window? On my 2002 Export CRD that position is for a brake light....is that what you are referring to?

It will be fuse 23 (10 amp) on the inside of cabin (Driver side).

 

[J.Hard90]

OK so it is Fuse #23 10 Amp.

You have a rear overhead light above the tailgate window? On my 2002 Export CRD that position is for a brake light....is that what you are referring to?

Grounds are not an issue for blowing fuses....+12 volts touching ground will blow a fuse!

When you have downloaded the 2002 Jeep KJ Service manual go to Section 8W for the wiring.

Page 8WA-12-13 shows the important wiring routes.
Different to my Export model!

The Park Relay interest me as the contact inside it swings between ground and +12 volts..a shorted out relay could blow fuses.

Look at the Component Index at the beginning of section 8W and see where this Park Relay is located on the interior fuse panel....Junction Panel...and try swap it over with a similar one nearby. The Relay will be on the rear of the fuse panel.

Yeah. It's a brake light. I had the wrong terminology.

 

[Billwill]

Ok I do not see the High Level Brake Lamp being involved with fuse # 23 on page 8Wa-12-13.....might be separate problem which we will worry about later!

The Black/Yellow wires coming off the bottom of fuse #23 splits up...one route going through connector C306 and the other route going through connector C106. Look in the Component Index and find where these two connectors are located. Disconnecting these connectors one at a time should give an indication of which route is shorting out. These connectors are usually difficult to open...kind of like solving the Rubics Cube!
If pulling apart both of these connectors still blows Fuse #10 then the fault is on the Black/Yellow wires shorting to ground as they come out of the Junction Block.

If you pull out both connectors and remove all Lamps at the bottom of these two routes then both these two routes should be floating in thin air ie. if you take your digital Multi Meter set on OHMs there should be no connection at all between these two Black/Yellow routes and ground/chassis....other than the grounds inside the sockets which may find their own way to ground somewhere. If there is leakage to ground I would suspect one of the lamp holders is shorting out or the wiring is chafing down to chassis somewhere.

 

[J.Hard90]

I'll try changing out the relay first since that will be an quick and easy step then move to the more difficult things if necessary. I'll have to teach myself as I go since I have like no experience with wiring or reading diagrams. Just doing a bunch of research and getting as much help as possible.

 

[Billwill]

I'll try changing out the relay first since that will be an quick and easy step then move to the more difficult things if necessary. I'll have to teach myself as I go since I have like no experience with wiring or reading diagrams. Just doing a bunch of research and getting as much help as possible.

Trust me I know my way around the 2002 Wiring diagrams though some differences between my 2.5 Export CRD and the USA/Canada models!

There is no problem getting advice here on reading diagrams...the Dealers are usually pretty useless at this...they just replace everything! This does not help much though if a major cable harness is grinding its way through to chassis/engine.

You definitely will need a cheap Multimeter...no need for drastically good accuracy...we will guide you through it all. I do not think yours is a major problem...probably bad bulb holders!

 

[J.Hard90]

Trust me I know my way around the 2002 Wiring diagrams though some differences between my 2.5 Export CRD and the USA/Canada models!

There is no problem getting advice here on reading diagrams...the Dealers are usually pretty useless at this...they just replace everything! This does not help much though if a major cable harness is grinding its way through to chassis/engine.

You definitely will need a cheap Multimeter...no need for drastically good accuracy...we will guide you through it all. I do not think yours is a major problem...probably bad bulb holders!

Funny you say bulb holders. A couple on the drivers side tail light actually had something of what appeared to be a burn around the grey plastic. I will try to film a video and post it for everyone to see.

 

[TheCanadian]

When I added LED reverse lights my fuse also went. I upped it by 5 AMPS and it seems to be good to go now.

You could always try that and see now it goes.

 

[J.Hard90]

I actually did up the 10 AMP fuse to a 15 AMP, but i

When I added LED reverse lights my fuse also went. I upped it by 5 AMPS and it seems to be good to go now.

You could always try that and see now it goes.

I gave that a shot. I upped the 10 AMP fuse to a 15 AMP, but it still blew. I have to go to the parts store today and pick up some more 10 AMP fuses. I also tried to switch out the park lamp relay, but I think I pulled the wrong relay because the drive side tail light still came on with a new fuse in and popped it. The light shouldn't come on at all and the fuse shouldn't blow if the relay is not in there. I'm going to have to take a picture of junction block from the service manual and compare it to the junction block in my car. I know they are the same, just the picture may be flipped.

 

[J.Hard90]

Just to give an update. I wasn't able to get much done yesterday except pick up more 10 amp fuses and unplug the tail light from it's connector to see if the 10 amp fuse would blow when i turn the park light on, which it did.

It started to rain pretty hard so I packed up and went back inside. Good summer time Florida weather. I'll be disconnecting the license plate lamp today and seeing if the fuse still blows. If it does, then i'll take a look at pulling the parking lamp relay and redoing my test.

I will keep you all posted on my findings and i'll try to make a video to share incase I do end up fixing the problem.

 

[Billwill]

Ideally you need to try get hold of a DC 10 A Circuit Breaker and wire it across one of your blown fuses. Must be a DC breaker, AC will not work.

I have heard RadioShack stocks them, we do not have RadioShack in SA so I cannot comment. I used to carry DC breakers of various ratings with me when I worked in the Field supporting mainframe Computers etc.

Then you can simply reset the breaker as you go along.

 

[TorrentIV]

I'd check the 3rd brake light assembly. About 5 years ago my factory one started getting brown and a bit warped around the bulb itself, eventually shorting out and blowing the fuse. Replaced it with a junker and no issues since. Note: this was a dealer bulb in a stock light, not sure why it happened.

 

[J.Hard90]

Update on where I am at.

Replaced Park Lamp Relay correctly this time. I had to take a look at the layout from the service manual and rotate it so I actually pulled the right one this time.

I unplugged the license plate lamp and the driver side tail light assembly. Put a new 10 amp fuse in and it didn't pop. I plugged the tail light back in and the 10 amp fuse popped.

So I'm left with thinking it has a short to ground?

I have to go back and take a look at the service manual to see where the assembly is actually grounded at.

 

[Jeremy-WI]

Why not check the wire harness for the drivers side tail light to find out the new grounding point?

 

[J.Hard90]

Ideally you need to try get hold of a DC 10 A Circuit Breaker and wire it across one of your blown fuses. Must be a DC breaker, AC will not work.

I have heard RadioShack stocks them, we do not have RadioShack in SA so I cannot comment. I used to carry DC breakers of various ratings with me when I worked in the Field supporting mainframe Computers etc.

Then you can simply reset the breaker as you go along.

I haven't seen a RadioShack in years! Will you give me a ebay link or amazon link to the specific circuit breaker I might need?

 

[J.Hard90]

Why not check the wire harness for the drivers side tail light to find out the new grounding point?

Why not check the wire harness for the drivers side tail light to find out the new grounding point?

That is what I am going to try next. Correct me if i'm wrong since I am learning as I go, I take my multi-meter and turn it to ohms and plug the positive in the wire that gives the bulb power and negative to the wire that should lead to ground and see if there is any resistance? If there is resistance then I would have a short to ground?

Not sure if that is correct or not.

 

[Billwill]

That is what I am going to try next. Correct me if i'm wrong since I am learning as I go, I take my multi-meter and turn it to ohms and plug the positive in the wire that gives the bulb power and negative to the wire that should lead to ground and see if there is any resistance? If there is resistance then I would have a short to ground?

Not sure if that is correct or not.

Yes but make sure you have Ignition OFF while you are doing this...you are measuring Ohms not voltage.
Makes no difference which lead you put where ..red or black no difference when measuring Ohms. Always touch the leads together before you start to see that you get next to no Ohms showing and do not touch the leads with your fingers! Likewise with a Digital Meter no problem which way you connect the leads when measuring voltage...if you have them the wrong way around ie. Black lead to +12 volts the display will show a - sign in front of the readout but it is good practice to keep it the right way around!

You will expect to see some continuity ie. a reading of a few Ohms if you have left in any other bulbs plugged in that are in parallel with the one you are measuring.

You will need to Google for DC Circuit Breakers to see who stocks them...I got mine from IBM spares when I worked for them before moving on!