10" subwoofer not turning on

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Arial

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I recently bought a Dual 10" sub with an amp built into the ported enclosure. It's max Is 300 watts I believe. I used a schoshe? Wiring kit with a 8 gauge power wire, twisted RCA cables, remote turn on wire, and a ground wire. I did everything exactly like the instructions said. I went over them multiple times all the way through, but the sub is still not turning on. What can I do?
 

Jbergun

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have you ever done this before what radio are you using
 

Senistr

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When installing an amp/sub to a vehicle, remember to have everything wired correctly for both the amp and the sub.

A few things people overlook is the antenna plug being put back into the factory or after market radio. The amp power cable should be ran through the vehicle to the battery terminal so that it gets power and is grounded. The sub should be wired to the amp and should be grounded to the amp, which is grounded to the battery terminal. If you have the cables switched IE power to ground/ground to power, it will not turn on.

The sub and the amp will have a wire that goes from the amp to the radio which should be plugged in as well (usually a left and a right). These can be mixed up as well and this will cause the sub to play bass from the left to right, and right to left and will make for a weird sound.

My suggestion would be to check all the cables, most likely the power to ground cables first, and make sure that they are in correct order and secured firmly with the screw that holds down the wiring to the bracket. There are several pictures online and how to guides that can give you a visualizer on how to do this.

-I installed 2 x 1200W 12" Kenwood Subs to a 1000W Kenwood amplifier in the trunk of a 2004 Mustang and changed out the stock Mach radio to a Kenwood radio.
 

Jbergun

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When installing an amp/sub to a vehicle, remember to have everything wired correctly for both the amp and the sub.

A few things people overlook is the antenna plug being put back into the factory or after market radio. The amp power cable should be ran through the vehicle to the battery terminal so that it gets power and is grounded. The sub should be wired to the amp and should be grounded to the amp, which is grounded to the battery terminal. If you have the cables switched IE power to ground/ground to power, it will not turn on.

The sub and the amp will have a wire that goes from the amp to the radio which should be plugged in as well (usually a left and a right). These can be mixed up as well and this will cause the sub to play bass from the left to right, and right to left and will make for a weird sound.

My suggestion would be to check all the cables, most likely the power to ground cables first, and make sure that they are in correct order and secured firmly with the screw that holds down the wiring to the bracket. There are several pictures online and how to guides that can give you a visualizer on how to do this.

-I installed 2 x 1200W 12" Kenwood Subs to a 1000W Kenwood amplifier in the trunk of a 2004 Mustang and changed out the stock Mach radio to a Kenwood radio.

I never ran my ground all the way back to the battery i asked if they did this before cause if not it could be a whole list of things from wires in the box to a bad voice coil to bad grounds bad remote turn on i mean could be anything
 

Kriszilla

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You don't need to ground all the way back to the battery. You just need to have the ground on good metal, with good contact.

Have you used a multimeter to verify that you're getting +12v at the amp and +12V on the remote line when the ignition & stereo are on?
 

Jbergun

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You don't need to ground all the way back to the battery. You just need to have the ground on good metal, with good contact.

Have you used a multimeter to verify that you're getting +12v at the amp and +12V on the remote line when the ignition & stereo are on?

There is so many thing that could be going wrong here but yea if you dont have a multimeter try a jumper from the power and if it kicks on its your remote turn on if not back to square one have you seen it work cause that would rule out quite a bit of possible problems.

I have run a few systems on my jeep and i have consulted others with theres like recomending what resistance subs they should get to be efficient run through a "professional" installastion to show them its not so progessional after all i know quite a bit about this but not so much other things so if anyone has questions on this subject i can actually help
 
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Senistr

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Yeah that was my mistake of running it back to the battery. I had thought that's what I had done but now remembering the entire ordeal I grounded it to the back of the back seat on a bolt that was there. Memory lapse at work o_o
 

ftaa

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if you take a pos and neg lead off the sub and hook it up to a 9 volt battery it will make a hum and eliminate voice coil.
other possibilitly is remote ... but generally if youve grounded out your remote your hole deck wont work .
 

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