2002 engine knocking -replace or rebuild?

[Lmassy]

I just bought a 2002 Jeep Liberty Limited.
I got it from the original owner with 84K miles.
She said it has been knocking for the past 3 weeks and getting louder every day.
Now I need to decide to rebuild it or just buy a used engine to put in it?
Both seem a little expensive, but hoping to get some advice on what is best?

Also, I live in Suffolk County Long Island if anyone knows a good mechanic?

 

[M38 Bob]

Get a proper diagnosis. Could be timing/camshaft related.

Bob

 

[LibertyTC]

Welcome to the forums!
I would not want to continue driving or even running it like that.
Engine light on? Pull codes & post em back!
Oil on dipstick clean? No bubbles or milky residue?
Top End noise or bottom knock?
Jeep does sometime throw a rocker, so pulling both valve covers and having a peak in there, may be a good place to start! Post pics inside the valve covers.
Most would try to find a new rebuilt, many local engine shops, can further help on diagnostics etc as well.

 

[Hockeygoon]

I just bought a 2002 Jeep Liberty Limited.
I got it from the original owner with 84K miles.
She said it has been knocking for the past 3 weeks and getting louder every day.
Now I need to decide to rebuild it or just buy a used engine to put in it?
Both seem a little expensive, but hoping to get some advice on what is best?

Also, I live in Suffolk County Long Island if anyone knows a good mechanic?

Without opening the engine its hard to advise you. A cheap and dirty rebuild will probably run around $1500 - $1700. That's new rod bearings, new main bearings, re ring the old pistons, polish the crank, hone the cylinder walls, and a new water pump. Probably should throw in a new oil pump too.

If the engine is full of sludge and/or shows signs of oil starvation you can't do (shouldn't attempt) a cheap rebuild. A full rebuild will run $3000+ or so with several additional steps involved.

A lot of has to do with why are the rods knocking at 84K?

 

[Lmassy]

I did pull both valve covers and all rockers are in place.
No check engine lights on at all.
No sludge or milky residue on the dipstick.
But it does seem to start hard (need to actually press the accelerator pedal a little while cranking) and there is white smoke from the tailpipe if I rev the engine.
Also, the knocking does quiet down a little once the engine warms up (but still there for sure).
Does anyone happen know of a good mechanic in Suffolk County Long Island? Even a guy who does it as a side job...I am not in a rush at all.

 

[teeje]

What kind of knock is it? Is it more of a lower end thud, a top end tick, or in between? A wrist pin will sound like a lifter also. Had that problem in a brand new engine. Got it fixed for free. Running good at 3000 miles. I've experienced all types of noises with the 3.7. If you can post a video of the noise that would help determine what the engine is worth. Before I had a new engine installed I had many problems and many fixes Til it finally blew. The new engine had a defective wrist pin on the connecting rod that definitely sounded like a lifter. Just food for thought


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[Lmassy]

Just checked again and no engine codes at all come up on my scanner.
Also, the attached video is of a cold start.

Not sure why, but I do not have permission to attach the video clips

 

[LibertyTC]

To prevent spammers, you need to get a few more posts! (6) ? is needed...
BTW was it clean inside the valve covers, no gunk inside?

 

[Lmassy]

Yes, very clean under the valve covers. Actually really clean.
I needed to pull the oil filler tube also and even that was clean.

I got prices on a remanufactured engine for $3K, used with 90K for $2,500 and a quote to rebuild mine for $3K - $4K.
But all quotes over the phone. No one has actually seen the truck yet

 

[teeje]

You might as well get a reman. That's what I did. I got a unlimited year 100,000 mile warranty. Which is best if you send it 3 hours away like I did and it returns with an issue like mine did. Had a bad tick and it turned out a defective connecting rod fixed for free. They even came and picked it up.


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[Hockeygoon]

You might as well get a reman. That's what I did. I got a unlimited year 100,000 mile warranty. Which is best if you send it 3 hours away like I did and it returns with an issue like mine did. Had a bad tick and it turned out a defective connecting rod fixed for free. They even came and picked it up.


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I did it both ways, the junk yard engine that was guaranteed good never powered the Jeep out of the shop. The reman engine with 100K warranty is being pulled and replaced with another after only 6000 miles on it.

The original engine was lightly knocking and had a lot of metal from the rod bearings being shed into the oil.

 

[teeje]

Guess all depends on where you get the reman from


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[Hockeygoon]

Guess all depends on where you get the reman from


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Or what kind of day the rebuilder is having when he assembles it.


They never could figure out why the original engine took a dump with so few miles.

 

[teeje]

Or what kind of day the rebuilder is having when he assembles it.





They never could figure out why the original engine took a dump with so few miles.

Yeah that makes senses. Miss a toque spec on the mains or re use a torque to yield bolt by mistake could mean everything


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[twowings]

While you engine-shop, get yourself some Marvel Mystery Oil at the auto parts store and follow the directions...can't hurt and CAN help...accept no substitutes...the darn stuff just works...